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EFV-8 Club Forum / General Ford Discussion / 1937 vapor lock

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Discussion Topic: 1937 vapor lock -- page: 1 2 3

mzahorik

07-11-2020 @ 7:19 AM

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I've been working on my 1937 humpback and got it to run pretty good. I have found that the short block is not 37, but most likely post war. The accessories, generator, carb, etal are from 37. Anyway, the engine will start easily and run well, (although I sure the engine is rather tired). But even a short ride to the gas station will warm the engine to the point where after the engine is stopped for a few minutes, it will not start again until it cools off. I can squirt gas or starting fluid in the carb and it will not start. I believe the engine is not over heating, the carburetor seems to be OK, good performance and the fuel pump has he correct vacuum and pressure. The carburetor also has a thick gasket between the carb flange and the intake manifold. Also the starter spins the engine at the same speed when hot as it does when cold. Does anyone have any suggestions? Thanks Mike

07-11-2020 @ 7:56 AM

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I suspect a faulty coil or it could be a faulty condenser as well. I would replace the coil first.

mzahorik

07-11-2020 @ 8:11 AM

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Gee... that was one of the areas I spent a lot of time on. I sent my coil to Skip Haney and he 'rebuilt' it. The distributor was re done also, with new points and condenser and set properly. Mike

TomO

07-11-2020 @ 8:34 AM

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Mike, check the spark by holding a plug wire near a head bolt. When idling it should be a blue spark and jump at least 1/2" long. You can do this as soon as the temperature gauge is above cold. An orange or short spark is a sign of poor ignition.

Skip's coils have a well earned reputation, so I suspect that the condenser is leaking and overheating the coil. Try a new condenser, but your coil may have been damaged by the condenser. Another cause of coil damage is if the dwell becomes too long or leaving the key on without the engine running.

Read this topic for more help:

https://www.earlyfordv8.org/forum/viewmessages.cfm?Forum=17&Topic=10805&keywords=fuel%20delivery

Tom

mzahorik

07-11-2020 @ 8:57 AM

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Thanks, I'll give it a try. I have a test spark plug where the electrode is low in the insulator and no ground strap. That should have about a 1/2" gap and is constant. Where as my hand is not that steady. Is there a way I could use a standard canister coil temporarily to see if the coil is the problem? Mike

carcrazy

07-11-2020 @ 10:24 AM

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One way to verify if your hot restart problem is due to lack of spark, is to spray starter fluid into the air cleaner while cranking the engine. If it doesn't at least try to start, you have an ignition problem.

mzahorik

07-11-2020 @ 4:39 PM

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Boy.... am I disappointed. I had figured I was alright on the ignition. The spark is rather poor even when the engine is cold. I checked and the ballast resistor is OK. I get a little over 3 volts at the coil. But the spark will not jump 1/2", barely 1/8". So I'll have to dig into the ignition again. Thanks for the help Mike.

51woodie

07-11-2020 @ 7:08 PM

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One thing to be aware of, is don't leave you ignition on if the engine is not running. It can/will damage the ignition component if the points are close during that time.

37fordguy

07-11-2020 @ 8:12 PM

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Just had the same problem-fuel pump rod

carcrazy

07-11-2020 @ 8:55 PM

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Check all of the electrical connections in the ignition primary circuit to make sure they are good and tight. I once had a loose connection on the condenser which caused the ignition to fail.

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