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EFV-8 Club Forum / General Ford Discussion / 1937 vapor lock

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Posted By Discussion Topic: 1937 vapor lock -- page: 1 2 3     kirkstad 07-18-2020 @ 10:21 AM reply profile send p.m. New Member Posts: 192 Joined: Jul 2017 I have a friend with a 36 2 door that would not start after the engine warmed up. I installed the Skip Haney rebuilt coil for my car I had Skip do a few years back. I kept the barrel coil with adapter on that has been working so well, but I intended to mount the original coil at some point. At the time I sent the coil to Skip,I asked about the condenser that I left mounted in the coil, he said if the condenser checks out OK he would leave mounted and he did,so hopefully you sent the condenser with the coil so he could check it out. My car was doing the same as his, engine would not start when warmed up. hope this helps. Frank therunwaybehind 07-17-2020 @ 9:09 AM reply profile send p.m. New Member Posts: 180 Joined: May 2019 Don't mistake condensers (capacitors) installed on the generator to eliminate brush noise in the radio or resistors installed on the spark plugs (or resistor spark plugs) to eliminate ignition noise also in the radio as might be with police radios with the capacitor on (or in the) distributor to prevent erosion of the points by arcing. Monkey see, monkey do is not the operative phrase here. kubes40 07-17-2020 @ 8:08 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 3370 Joined: Oct 2009 Joe Hunt Magnetos sells a perfect (USA) condenser for your car. It is 33mf, supposed to be the optimum for these ignitions. I've installed these in numerous cars and every one has shown a wonderful improvement in not only starting, but running. Mike "Kube" Kubarth TomO 07-17-2020 @ 7:09 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 7243 Joined: Oct 2009 Robert, it sounds like your carburetor is leaking fuel into the intake manifold. I would have it rebuilt. Tom Robert/Texas 07-17-2020 @ 4:33 AM reply profile send p.m. New Member Posts: 106 Joined: Dec 2009 My ’37 humpback acts exactly in the way described in the original posting. Everything about the engine is the same except that I have no riser on the carburetor. I have done lots of things to no avail. I have found that when starting the car while warm is to be careful not to flood it. I crank the engine while barely touching the throttle and it always starts. When I try to start it the normal way it often floods. I realize that it shouldn’t be that way, but I have been living with it. I also have a ’34 Ford but it doesn’t behave this way. mzahorik 07-15-2020 @ 8:34 AM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 209 Joined: Nov 2009 Thanks. I'll give iy a try. 40 Coupe 07-15-2020 @ 2:13 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 1646 Joined: Oct 2009 NAPA FA49 condenser for the 37-41 Ford distributor. TomO 07-14-2020 @ 6:40 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 7243 Joined: Oct 2009 Mike, I cannot recommend any electrical parts these days. The quality of all of them is questionable. I have used the condensers from NAPA in the past with no problems. I cannot say that about the ones provided by the vendors that supply the hobby. Driving the car with a condenser of the wrong value can cause the points to pit and then you will have to replace them. This could lead to more problems as the quality of replacement point is not as good as the ones that we used to get 30 years ago. Tom mzahorik 07-13-2020 @ 12:37 PM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 209 Joined: Nov 2009 The external capacitor is just temporary. I wanted to see if it helped, although I may leave it on for a while, just to see if it really makes a difference over time. Are you recommending the Echlin IH-200? I may try it, just for an experiment. Not sure why the Model T capacitor is so much larger than the V8 cap. Maybe I should get a spare coil and have Skip work on it. Thanks for the help. The car is fun to drive again. Mike TomO 07-13-2020 @ 8:18 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 7243 Joined: Oct 2009 Nice looking survivor, Mike. I would get a new condenser from NAPA and install it. You may not get the results that I specified with your set up. A 1/4" spark may be acceptable with a test plug. The different capacitance will also make a difference in spark intensity. You can use one of the plastic fuse holders to hold the wire or stick a small wooden dowel inside the plug connector to assist in holding the wire close to a head nut. You can buy a coil adapter for test purposes that will allow you to use a round coil, but their reliability is questionable of the long term. I made my own from a bad coil base back in the 1970's and still use it for test purposes. The problem is that the round coils have severe quality issues. I do carry a spare Skip rebuilt coil for emergencies. Tom

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