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EFV-8 Club Forum / General Mercury Discussion / 1946 Mercury distributor

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Posted By Discussion Topic: 1946 Mercury distributor

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Peder D
01-10-2019 @ 12:23 PM
Posts: 80
Joined: Oct 2009
Hi all! I'm having a hard time trying get my engine run correctly. Carburetor and distributor have been totally refurbished. Idles really good when warm...increasing the rpms at a stand still, the engine starts to sputter...back down idle...beautiful! The sputtering is quite noticable when on the road, and a vibration can be felt. My mechanic friend wants to take the distributor out and get it adjusted in a machine? Hard to find machine? in Norway, but there is somebody who has such a machine...what is this "contraption" called?...is this a bullet proof way of adjusting? Again, absolutely everything under hood is new!!!Thanks , Peder

ken ct.
01-10-2019 @ 2:49 PM
Posts: 1372
Joined: Jan 2010
I would remove and check gap on both sets of points should be .016 on both. Also timing plate should be set on middle index line or plate and screw moved up 1 line from middle. Vacume piston should be scr*w*d out with fingers and scr*w*d back in 1 turn and locked down with the lock nut ?? ken ct. Was it put back in correctly . Tounge is off set slightly, matching the slot on the cam shaft.

ken ct.
01-10-2019 @ 2:50 PM
Posts: 1372
Joined: Jan 2010
I would remove and check gap on both sets of points should be .016 on both. Also timing plate should be set on middle index line or plate and screw moved up 1 line from middle. Vacume piston should be scr*w*d out with fingers and scr*w*d back in 1 turn and locked down with the lock nut ?? ken ct. Was it put back in correctly . Tounge is off set slightly, matching the slot on the cam shaft.

01-11-2019 @ 7:06 AM
Posts: 5717
Joined: Oct 2009
Peder, the machine is called a Distributor Tester by one of the manufacturers. Here is a link to a video of one in use.


Your mechanic might have a dwell meter and that can be used to check the distributor points. Total dwell should be 34-36 degrees.

Before he removes the distributor, he should check the spark at the plugs by removing a plug wire and holding it near a head nut. The spark should be a nice blue color and about 1 cm long. If it is orange in color or shorter in length, the problem may be the condenser or coil. Try the condenser first as the quality of them has been poor lately.

If the spark is good, have him do a cylinder balance test by connecting a tachometer to the coil to distributor wire and then raising the engine speed to 800-1,000 rpm and shorting out one plug at a time. Each plug should cause the rpm to drop about the same amount. If one or more plugs do not drop the rpms as much, remove that plug and replace it with a new properly gapped plug and repeat the test.


03-31-2019 @ 10:07 AM
Posts: 1181
Joined: Oct 2009
how did it run before ? ok or not ok
to me it sounds like a loose connection, in primary ignition circuit or a bad condenser ?
the parts you used were are they made ? USA new old stock ? or foreign Taiwan or China,?
you can also run a jumper wire from the battery directly to the ignition resister,
try it both ways, with the resister and for a very short period of time with out the resister,
maybe the resister is the problem, does it get hot,? take a voltage reading, one side 6 volts,
the other maybe around 4 volts,
if it runs better it is in the primary ignition wiring, dirty or loose connections,
let hear how you made out,
my 2 cents 37RAGTOPMAN

05-17-2019 @ 2:19 PM
Posts: 18
Joined: Apr 2019
Could this have a Loadamatic distributor? If so where is the vacuum line connected to? If it is to manifold vacuum it could be your problem. Loadamatic needs the right carb with ported vacuum.

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