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Discussion Topic:
1946 Mercury distributor
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Peder D |
01-10-2019 @ 12:23 PM
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Member
Posts: 95
Joined: Oct 2009
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Hi all! I'm having a hard time trying get my engine run correctly. Carburetor and distributor have been totally refurbished. Idles really good when warm...increasing the rpms at a stand still, the engine starts to sputter...back down idle...beautiful! The sputtering is quite noticable when on the road, and a vibration can be felt. My mechanic friend wants to take the distributor out and get it adjusted in a machine? Hard to find machine? in Norway, but there is somebody who has such a machine...what is this "contraption" called?...is this a bullet proof way of adjusting? Again, absolutely everything under hood is new!!!Thanks , Peder
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ken ct. |
01-10-2019 @ 2:49 PM
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Senior
Posts: 1513
Joined: Jan 2010
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I would remove and check gap on both sets of points should be .016 on both. Also timing plate should be set on middle index line or plate and screw moved up 1 line from middle. Vacume piston should be scr*w*d out with fingers and scr*w*d back in 1 turn and locked down with the lock nut ?? ken ct. Was it put back in correctly . Tounge is off set slightly, matching the slot on the cam shaft.
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ken ct. |
01-10-2019 @ 2:50 PM
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Senior
Posts: 1513
Joined: Jan 2010
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I would remove and check gap on both sets of points should be .016 on both. Also timing plate should be set on middle index line or plate and screw moved up 1 line from middle. Vacume piston should be scr*w*d out with fingers and scr*w*d back in 1 turn and locked down with the lock nut ?? ken ct. Was it put back in correctly . Tounge is off set slightly, matching the slot on the cam shaft.
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TomO |
01-11-2019 @ 7:06 AM
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Senior
Posts: 7243
Joined: Oct 2009
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Peder, the machine is called a Distributor Tester by one of the manufacturers. Here is a link to a video of one in use. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vuBdVZrmV00 Your mechanic might have a dwell meter and that can be used to check the distributor points. Total dwell should be 34-36 degrees. Before he removes the distributor, he should check the spark at the plugs by removing a plug wire and holding it near a head nut. The spark should be a nice blue color and about 1 cm long. If it is orange in color or shorter in length, the problem may be the condenser or coil. Try the condenser first as the quality of them has been poor lately. If the spark is good, have him do a cylinder balance test by connecting a tachometer to the coil to distributor wire and then raising the engine speed to 800-1,000 rpm and shorting out one plug at a time. Each plug should cause the rpm to drop about the same amount. If one or more plugs do not drop the rpms as much, remove that plug and replace it with a new properly gapped plug and repeat the test.
Tom
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37RAGTOPMAN |
03-31-2019 @ 10:07 AM
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Senior
Posts: 1939
Joined: Oct 2009
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HI how did it run before ? ok or not ok to me it sounds like a loose connection, in primary ignition circuit or a bad condenser ? the parts you used were are they made ? USA new old stock ? or foreign Taiwan or China,? you can also run a jumper wire from the battery directly to the ignition resister, try it both ways, with the resister and for a very short period of time with out the resister, maybe the resister is the problem, does it get hot,? take a voltage reading, one side 6 volts, the other maybe around 4 volts, if it runs better it is in the primary ignition wiring, dirty or loose connections, let hear how you made out, my 2 cents 37RAGTOPMAN
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Catimann |
05-17-2019 @ 2:19 PM
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Member
Posts: 18
Joined: Apr 2019
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Could this have a Loadamatic distributor? If so where is the vacuum line connected to? If it is to manifold vacuum it could be your problem. Loadamatic needs the right carb with ported vacuum.
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Peder D |
07-02-2019 @ 11:20 PM
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Member
Posts: 95
Joined: Oct 2009
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Thanks to all for your help! So far, have not been able to address all this...still awaiting the mechanics time and effort! On another note, and maybe related... During a 125 mile drive last weekend, and under halfway in the drive, my amp gauge suddenly stopped working...I know the gauge is working because using the aftermarket mounted directional signals made the needle move...so... ...what's the problem? Regulator og generator? Generator was inspected a few years ago...regulator has not been looked at in the 15 years I have owned the car...and can this problem relate to a sputtering engine beyond idling? Again, have not been able to get to checking this out either...would mention an erratic needle movement in the gauge, but always charging until it quit...hoping to get some good input here! Thanks for your help!
This message was edited by Peder D on 7-4-19 @ 12:36 AM
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TomO |
07-03-2019 @ 7:44 AM
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Senior
Posts: 7243
Joined: Oct 2009
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Peder, Your charging problem could be the voltage regulator, generator or poor grounding of either of them. My first action would be to check the generator belt for slipping, next clean the cutout points in the regulator with the battery disconnected, next using a generator test set, I would check out the generator and regulator. On your partial throttle roughness, have your mechanic use a vacuum gauge to help diagnose the problem. http://www.secondchancegarage.com/public/186.cfm
Tom
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Peder D |
07-03-2019 @ 1:53 PM
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Member
Posts: 95
Joined: Oct 2009
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Ok, thanks Tom...a vacuum gauge has been used and the vacuum checks out!
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TomO |
07-03-2019 @ 6:27 PM
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Senior
Posts: 7243
Joined: Oct 2009
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Peder, with the ignition off, take off the air cleaner, look into the carburetor and operate the accelerator linkage. You should see two strong streams of fuel from the accelerator nozzle. If you don't either the nozzle openings are plugged or the accelerator pump is bad.
Tom
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