| Peder D | -- 01-10-2019 @ 12:23 PM |
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Hi all! I'm having a hard time trying get my engine run correctly. Carburetor and distributor have been totally refurbished. Idles really good when warm...increasing the rpms at a stand still, the engine starts to sputter...back down idle...beautiful! The sputtering is quite noticable when on the road, and a vibration can be felt. My mechanic friend wants to take the distributor out and get it adjusted in a machine? Hard to find machine? in Norway, but there is somebody who has such a machine...what is this "contraption" called?...is this a bullet proof way of adjusting? Again, absolutely everything under hood is new!!!Thanks , Peder
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| ken ct. | -- 01-10-2019 @ 2:49 PM |
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I would remove and check gap on both sets of points should be .016 on both. Also timing plate should be set on middle index line or plate and screw moved up 1 line from middle. Vacume piston should be scr*w*d out with fingers and scr*w*d back in 1 turn and locked down with the lock nut ?? ken ct. Was it put back in correctly . Tounge is off set slightly, matching the slot on the cam shaft.
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| ken ct. | -- 01-10-2019 @ 2:50 PM |
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I would remove and check gap on both sets of points should be .016 on both. Also timing plate should be set on middle index line or plate and screw moved up 1 line from middle. Vacume piston should be scr*w*d out with fingers and scr*w*d back in 1 turn and locked down with the lock nut ?? ken ct. Was it put back in correctly . Tounge is off set slightly, matching the slot on the cam shaft.
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| TomO | -- 01-11-2019 @ 7:06 AM |
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Peder, the machine is called a Distributor Tester by one of the manufacturers. Here is a link to a video of one in use. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vuBdVZrmV00 Your mechanic might have a dwell meter and that can be used to check the distributor points. Total dwell should be 34-36 degrees. Before he removes the distributor, he should check the spark at the plugs by removing a plug wire and holding it near a head nut. The spark should be a nice blue color and about 1 cm long. If it is orange in color or shorter in length, the problem may be the condenser or coil. Try the condenser first as the quality of them has been poor lately. If the spark is good, have him do a cylinder balance test by connecting a tachometer to the coil to distributor wire and then raising the engine speed to 800-1,000 rpm and shorting out one plug at a time. Each plug should cause the rpm to drop about the same amount. If one or more plugs do not drop the rpms as much, remove that plug and replace it with a new properly gapped plug and repeat the test. Tom
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| 37RAGTOPMAN | -- 03-31-2019 @ 10:07 AM |
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HI how did it run before ? ok or not ok to me it sounds like a loose connection, in primary ignition circuit or a bad condenser ? the parts you used were are they made ? USA new old stock ? or foreign Taiwan or China,? you can also run a jumper wire from the battery directly to the ignition resister, try it both ways, with the resister and for a very short period of time with out the resister, maybe the resister is the problem, does it get hot,? take a voltage reading, one side 6 volts, the other maybe around 4 volts, if it runs better it is in the primary ignition wiring, dirty or loose connections, let hear how you made out, my 2 cents 37RAGTOPMAN
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| Catimann | -- 05-17-2019 @ 2:19 PM |
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Could this have a Loadamatic distributor? If so where is the vacuum line connected to? If it is to manifold vacuum it could be your problem. Loadamatic needs the right carb with ported vacuum.
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| Peder D | -- 07-02-2019 @ 11:20 PM |
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Thanks to all for your help! So far, have not been able to address all this...still awaiting the mechanics time and effort! On another note, and maybe related... During a 125 mile drive last weekend, and under halfway in the drive, my amp gauge suddenly stopped working...I know the gauge is working because using the aftermarket mounted directional signals made the needle move...so... ...what's the problem? Regulator og generator? Generator was inspected a few years ago...regulator has not been looked at in the 15 years I have owned the car...and can this problem relate to a sputtering engine beyond idling? Again, have not been able to get to checking this out either...would mention an erratic needle movement in the gauge, but always charging until it quit...hoping to get some good input here! Thanks for your help! This message was edited by Peder D on 7-4-19 @ 12:36 AM
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| TomO | -- 07-03-2019 @ 7:44 AM |
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Peder, Your charging problem could be the voltage regulator, generator or poor grounding of either of them. My first action would be to check the generator belt for slipping, next clean the cutout points in the regulator with the battery disconnected, next using a generator test set, I would check out the generator and regulator. On your partial throttle roughness, have your mechanic use a vacuum gauge to help diagnose the problem. http://www.secondchancegarage.com/public/186.cfm Tom
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| Peder D | -- 07-03-2019 @ 1:53 PM |
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Ok, thanks Tom...a vacuum gauge has been used and the vacuum checks out!
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| TomO | -- 07-03-2019 @ 6:27 PM |
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Peder, with the ignition off, take off the air cleaner, look into the carburetor and operate the accelerator linkage. You should see two strong streams of fuel from the accelerator nozzle. If you don't either the nozzle openings are plugged or the accelerator pump is bad. Tom
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| Peder D | -- 07-15-2019 @ 7:26 AM |
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Not finding a problem with the generator...could it be the regulator? Looks like it's the original one...where do I buy the best regulator? American made...
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| therunwaybehind | -- 07-15-2019 @ 9:21 AM |
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A simple care is sometimes required. Do not touch the surface faces of the distributor points with your fingers as the oil will remain and make a carbon resistance. If any oil, even fresh has dripped on them it cannot simply be wiped off with a soft cloth. Even using a point file to "dress" them once they have carbon requires they be removed and cleaned in choke cleaner or something like paint remover. I made mine from Schlitz malt liquor and Chlorox to obtain ethyl chloride which I hoped was less poisonous than the methyl chloride in commercial paint removers. The sparkplugs may need a few hours of this or a month in ammonia as shown me by a test driver. Plated plugs will lose their plating in this process. Do you catch my drift? Don't touch the electrodes, at all! Touch only the structural areas of the points and the screws that position and hold them in. The machine, the one I used was a SUN machine that Pioneer High School in Ann Arbor had in their vocational studies area. I was thinking of Harry Hjorth and his care of SAS for Douglas last night as I was looking for the Ford connection in a DC-7C. Yes! the Curtiss-Wright 3350 Dual-TurboCyclones were fuel-injected like those Ford built during WW-II. It says so in the description of two DC-7c's that met at the North Pole flying opposite directions from Oslo and Japan. Sorry, negative thinkers no crash as over the Grand Canyon and New York city.
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| Peder D | -- 07-17-2019 @ 2:11 AM |
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Now very confused about my charging issues...checked and opened up the regulator and it seems to work...generator has been taken apart and no visual damage found...brushes are good...could the armature and or the commutator be damaged or cracked? How do I verify this? The voltmeter shows 6+ volts at every connection...mechanic says no current in to the generator?.. again...very confused...Thanks...
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| cliftford | -- 07-17-2019 @ 6:37 AM |
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When you had the generator apart did you check the armature with a growler and the field coils for shorts with a continuity light? The light is usually part of the growler.
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| TomO | -- 07-17-2019 @ 7:26 AM |
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Peder, to determine if the charging problem is the generator or the regulator, with everything connected and the engine running, pull the throttle out until the engine is running at about 1,000 rpm. Connect your volt meter to the battery terminal of the regulator and connect a jumper wire between the ARM an FLD terminals on the voltage regulator just long enough to read the meter. You should get a reading of above 7 volts if the generator is working. If the reading is less than 7 volts, have the generator repaired, if it is above 7 volts repair or replace the regulator. Make sure that the generator case makes good contact with the intake manifold, make sure that the battery ground cable is in good condition, make sure that the grounding wire from the generator to the regulator is connected and in good condition. To use a meter to check grounding, connect the + lead of the meter to the generator through bolt and the COM meter lead to the regulator base. Set the meter to the lowest scale. With the engine running at 1,500 RPM, the volt meter should read zero V. If you have a reading , you will need to make sure that the generator is making good contact with the intake, the grounding wire from the generator to the voltage regulator is making good contact and that it is in good condition and the regulator base to the firewall is making good contact. You can add a ground cable from the firewall to the intake manifold to get a better ground. Tom
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| Peder D | -- 07-17-2019 @ 1:32 PM |
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TomO, the voltmeter shows 6,2 volts...so based on what you wrote, it's the generator that's the problem...what to repair? Brushes are fine...what else can be replaced?...where is the best complete generator buy in America ...and would the alternator version be good? Peder
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| TomO | -- 07-18-2019 @ 10:45 AM |
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Peder, the reading is battery voltage, so the generator is not supplying voltage or current. The generator armature or field coils could be bad. A good generator shop would be able to determine what parts need to be repaired or replaced. I seem to remember that you are in Europe, so I would look for a local or EU generator shop and have it rebuilt. The cost of shipping to the USA for a rebuilt generator would probably exceed the cost of having yours repaired over there. You would have to pay shipping for your generator and for the rebuilt generator, because they need your generator as a core for rebuilding. If you cannot find a service locally, contact one of the Regional Groups near you. You may be able to find a good used one or they may know of a shop that will rebuild yours. Here is a link to the rebuilt generator that you need: https://www.macsautoparts.com/ford_mercury_early/generator-95-hp-2-brush-with-single-pulley-ford-v8-except-60-hp-6-volt.html Tom
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| Peder D | -- 07-18-2019 @ 2:11 PM |
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Thanks to all for your help!!!
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