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Discussion Topic:
1946 Mercury distributor
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Peder D |
07-18-2019 @ 2:11 PM
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Member
Posts: 95
Joined: Oct 2009
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Thanks to all for your help!!!
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TomO |
07-18-2019 @ 10:45 AM
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Senior
Posts: 7243
Joined: Oct 2009
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Peder, the reading is battery voltage, so the generator is not supplying voltage or current. The generator armature or field coils could be bad. A good generator shop would be able to determine what parts need to be repaired or replaced. I seem to remember that you are in Europe, so I would look for a local or EU generator shop and have it rebuilt. The cost of shipping to the USA for a rebuilt generator would probably exceed the cost of having yours repaired over there. You would have to pay shipping for your generator and for the rebuilt generator, because they need your generator as a core for rebuilding. If you cannot find a service locally, contact one of the Regional Groups near you. You may be able to find a good used one or they may know of a shop that will rebuild yours. Here is a link to the rebuilt generator that you need: https://www.macsautoparts.com/ford_mercury_early/generator-95-hp-2-brush-with-single-pulley-ford-v8-except-60-hp-6-volt.html
Tom
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Peder D |
07-17-2019 @ 1:32 PM
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Member
Posts: 95
Joined: Oct 2009
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TomO, the voltmeter shows 6,2 volts...so based on what you wrote, it's the generator that's the problem...what to repair? Brushes are fine...what else can be replaced?...where is the best complete generator buy in America ...and would the alternator version be good? Peder
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TomO |
07-17-2019 @ 7:26 AM
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Senior
Posts: 7243
Joined: Oct 2009
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Peder, to determine if the charging problem is the generator or the regulator, with everything connected and the engine running, pull the throttle out until the engine is running at about 1,000 rpm. Connect your volt meter to the battery terminal of the regulator and connect a jumper wire between the ARM an FLD terminals on the voltage regulator just long enough to read the meter. You should get a reading of above 7 volts if the generator is working. If the reading is less than 7 volts, have the generator repaired, if it is above 7 volts repair or replace the regulator. Make sure that the generator case makes good contact with the intake manifold, make sure that the battery ground cable is in good condition, make sure that the grounding wire from the generator to the regulator is connected and in good condition. To use a meter to check grounding, connect the + lead of the meter to the generator through bolt and the COM meter lead to the regulator base. Set the meter to the lowest scale. With the engine running at 1,500 RPM, the volt meter should read zero V. If you have a reading , you will need to make sure that the generator is making good contact with the intake, the grounding wire from the generator to the voltage regulator is making good contact and that it is in good condition and the regulator base to the firewall is making good contact. You can add a ground cable from the firewall to the intake manifold to get a better ground.
Tom
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cliftford |
07-17-2019 @ 6:37 AM
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Senior
Posts: 845
Joined: Jan 2014
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When you had the generator apart did you check the armature with a growler and the field coils for shorts with a continuity light? The light is usually part of the growler.
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Peder D |
07-17-2019 @ 2:11 AM
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Member
Posts: 95
Joined: Oct 2009
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Now very confused about my charging issues...checked and opened up the regulator and it seems to work...generator has been taken apart and no visual damage found...brushes are good...could the armature and or the commutator be damaged or cracked? How do I verify this? The voltmeter shows 6+ volts at every connection...mechanic says no current in to the generator?.. again...very confused...Thanks...
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therunwaybehind |
07-15-2019 @ 9:21 AM
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New Member
Posts: 180
Joined: May 2019
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A simple care is sometimes required. Do not touch the surface faces of the distributor points with your fingers as the oil will remain and make a carbon resistance. If any oil, even fresh has dripped on them it cannot simply be wiped off with a soft cloth. Even using a point file to "dress" them once they have carbon requires they be removed and cleaned in choke cleaner or something like paint remover. I made mine from Schlitz malt liquor and Chlorox to obtain ethyl chloride which I hoped was less poisonous than the methyl chloride in commercial paint removers. The sparkplugs may need a few hours of this or a month in ammonia as shown me by a test driver. Plated plugs will lose their plating in this process. Do you catch my drift? Don't touch the electrodes, at all! Touch only the structural areas of the points and the screws that position and hold them in. The machine, the one I used was a SUN machine that Pioneer High School in Ann Arbor had in their vocational studies area. I was thinking of Harry Hjorth and his care of SAS for Douglas last night as I was looking for the Ford connection in a DC-7C. Yes! the Curtiss-Wright 3350 Dual-TurboCyclones were fuel-injected like those Ford built during WW-II. It says so in the description of two DC-7c's that met at the North Pole flying opposite directions from Oslo and Japan. Sorry, negative thinkers no crash as over the Grand Canyon and New York city.
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Peder D |
07-15-2019 @ 7:26 AM
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Member
Posts: 95
Joined: Oct 2009
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Not finding a problem with the generator...could it be the regulator? Looks like it's the original one...where do I buy the best regulator? American made...
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TomO |
07-03-2019 @ 6:27 PM
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Senior
Posts: 7243
Joined: Oct 2009
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Peder, with the ignition off, take off the air cleaner, look into the carburetor and operate the accelerator linkage. You should see two strong streams of fuel from the accelerator nozzle. If you don't either the nozzle openings are plugged or the accelerator pump is bad.
Tom
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Peder D |
07-03-2019 @ 1:53 PM
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Member
Posts: 95
Joined: Oct 2009
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Ok, thanks Tom...a vacuum gauge has been used and the vacuum checks out!
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