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Posted By Discussion Topic: whimpy headlights -- page: 1 2     Barney 10-22-2025 @ 7:10 AM reply profile send p.m. New Member Posts: 127 Joined: Nov 2015 Hello Ford lovers, I recently posted a request for info regarding the addition of directional signals on my 1940 Fordor. Thank you to those who responded. This endeavor led me to realize my 6-volt Wagner brand sealed-beam headlights were weaker than I think they should be. I do realize they're only 6 volt and that I'm spoiled with the new headlight systems in today's vehicles. Anyone have thoughts on combining the low beam and high beam and running them simultaneously? I'm guess the lights would run too hot and burn out quickly, or draw too much current and tax the capacity of the generator. Thank you for your thoughts. I'll understand if I'm dubbed a dunce with these questions. Regards, Barney carcrazy 10-22-2025 @ 9:31 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 1976 Joined: Oct 2009 You have several options. You can run the high beams all the time which will give you a little more light or you can switch to an alternator, either 6V or 12V. If you want to keep the current 6V system with a generator, you can use a headlight relay to allow a direct path for the current to flow from the battery to the headlights without going through the head light switch. This message was edited by carcrazy on 10-22-25 @ 5:58 PM pauls39coupe 10-22-2025 @ 10:22 AM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 247 Joined: Jul 2014 Check the ground side of the headlight wiring to be sure you have a clean and shiny connection. Also check the body grounds and the dimmer switch connections. trjford8 10-22-2025 @ 12:15 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 4352 Joined: Oct 2009 I agree with Paul on this one. Check all the grounds and make sure they are clean. Grounding on a 6 volt system is critical TomO 10-22-2025 @ 1:58 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 7385 Joined: Oct 2009 The most common cause of dim lights is low voltage to the bulbs. With the engine off you should have at least 6Volts at the bulb. If you do, then the second most common problem is old bulbs. Try replacing your headlight bulbs. If the voltage is low, operate your dimmer switch many time to clean the contacts and then recheck the voltage. If that doesn't work, you are going to have to do a voltage drop test to find out where the voltage is being lost. This test is done by connecting the COM lead of your voltmeter to the NEG post of the battery and then probing connections with the + lead of the meter. The rule of thumb is that you will lose 0.1V at each connection or switch. Anything more than that is a ba connection. Tom fordv8j 10-22-2025 @ 4:28 PM reply profile send p.m. New Member Posts: 193 Joined: Jan 2015 I put 6v sealed beama on our 38; they were dim ,I ran a heavy wire from hot side of selenoid, through a fuse to a toggle wsitch under dash, then th the hot post on dimmer switch; turn lights on with headlight switch, flip toggle switch on...they get bright Barney 10-23-2025 @ 3:50 AM reply profile send p.m. New Member Posts: 127 Joined: Nov 2015 Thank you very much to Carcrazy, Paul, Trj, TomO and FordV8 for your responses With the high beam wires disconnected at the dimmer switch and with engine not running, I measure 5.9 V at the headlights' low beam terminal. However, I measure 2.3 V at the high beam terminals.?.? Seems like there may be a partial short inside the sealed beam; this seems it would be very unlikely. I agree about grounding; I have very good grounds; each light, front and back, has it's own individual ground wire. I'm not a fan of the original light switch; feels like poor internal connections. I'm contemplating utilizing a toggle switch for headlights and a second toggle switch for the taillights. Lastly, I'm utilizing 16 gauge wire for the headlights; heavy enough? Thanks again for all your advise. Barney trjford8 10-23-2025 @ 8:27 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 4352 Joined: Oct 2009 I would use 14 ga. wire .Also if you think it is the switch you can use a later model switch and you can put the '40 knob on the switch. JayChicago 10-23-2025 @ 12:01 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 555 Joined: Jan 2016 "With the high beam wires disconnected at the dimmer switch...I measure 5.9 V at the headlights' low beam terminal. However, I measure 2.3 V at the high beam terminals.?.?" Assuming you are taking readings with the bulb connected / current running thru the bulb, then that sounds like poor ground to me. If the low beam current cannot easily drain to ground, some voltage will build on the ground side of the bulb and back-feed into the high beam supply side. I know you have new ground wires. Is there a clean path from the bulb to the new ground wire? Can you measure voltage on the bulb's ground terminal while light on? Should be near zero if easily dumping to ground as it should. This message was edited by JayChicago on 10-23-25 @ 12:30 PM Barney 10-24-2025 @ 3:25 AM reply profile send p.m. New Member Posts: 127 Joined: Nov 2015 TRJ & Jay, Thank you for your input and ideas. I'm beginning to think my ground(s) aren't as good as I thought. A new switch may be a good idea; the original seems quite anemic. I'm looking forward to measuring the voltage at the ground terminal. Thank you. Barney

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