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EFV-8 Club Forum / General Ford Discussion / '36 won't fire up

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CDemarest
09-22-2020 @ 4:32 PM
Member
Posts: 29
Joined: Oct 2019
          
This story starts a long time ago. I purchased a 1936 Ford pickup 50 years ago. It was in bad shape. I tore it completely down to the bare frame and have been rebuilding it. About 40 years ago, I bought a rebuilt replacement engine. The one I received had blanking plates on the block where the water pumps were intended to be mounted. I understand that this type block came out in 1937 and it was not a totally uncommon practice to put these blocks into older vehicles as replacements and add the blanking plates. Anyway, around the same time, I bought a rebuilt distributor with the flat top (2 screw) coil. I had the engine running for a very short time back 40 years ago and then the project was put on the back burner until recently. I've been trying to get the engine to run for several weeks with no success. I've purchased and installed a rebuilt distributor body, rotor and points as well as replacing the capacitor and resistor (located on inside of firewall). I purchased a replacement coil (not rebuilt as far as I know). I haven't changed the spark plug wires since the engine was running 40 years ago so I believe they are connected correctly. I know the engine is getting gas because I have a clear plastic tube feeding into the fuel pump and I see the gas being drawn in. The engine cranks but I only get what sound like an single ignition once in a while.

The voltage at the input to the coil is 6 volts and then drops down to a little over 3 volts as I crank the starter and I would imagine that the points close. I measure 2,800 ohms over the primary (no condenser) and 8,500 ohms over the secondary coil.

Does anyone have any suggestions? Should I look into a rebuilt coil?

Many thanks,

Charlie Demarest

pauls39coupe
09-22-2020 @ 5:25 PM
New Member
Posts: 199
Joined: Jul 2014
          
We need a bit more information. If you open the throttle quickly do you get a shot of gas down the carb? Is the gas fresh?
Pull one of the spark plugs and crank the engine over with the ignition on. Do you get a fat blue spark from the plug?
Run a compression check, do all the cylinders produce at least 75-80 psi?

CDemarest
09-22-2020 @ 6:17 PM
Member
Posts: 29
Joined: Oct 2019
          
Thanks. I do know that the gas is fresh. I’ll try your other suggestions.

carcrazy
09-22-2020 @ 8:04 PM
Senior
Posts: 1582
Joined: Oct 2009
          
One way to see if you have any spark at all is to spray some starter fluid into the carburetor before cranking the engine with the ignition switch turned on. If the engine does not even try to fire up and run, you know you have no spark. Does the starter turn the engine over at the normal cranking speed?

40 Coupe
09-23-2020 @ 4:12 AM
Senior
Posts: 1645
Joined: Oct 2009
          
After sitting for such a long time you may want to do a compression check to see if valves are stuck in open position also.

1931 Flamingo
09-23-2020 @ 6:11 AM
Member
Posts: 380
Joined: Nov 2019
          
Could also be oxidation on the points...............
Paul in CT

37RAGTOPMAN
09-23-2020 @ 7:01 AM
Senior
Posts: 1940
Joined: Oct 2009
          
hi
do a compression test, like 40 coupe said,
these flatheads had problems when sitting, the valves work stick open,
esp for 40 years wow,
if the valves are stuck open you can use MMO , to lube them and maybe using a probe push the valves down
while turning the motor over,
do one cylinder at a time,
seems to me if you have one firing ,the rest are stuck open,
does it spin over easily ? like no compression ?
maybe also using PB BLASTER RUST BUSTER,
you should see the valves operating though the spark plug hole, using a strong flash light,
If compression is ok it is most likely the spark,,
you need three things this to make a engine run, GAS, SPARK, COMPRESSION, all in time,
hope this helps, 1937 Ragtopman GOOD LUCK,,, let us hear how you made out,!!!

This message was edited by 37RAGTOPMAN on 9-23-20 @ 2:19 PM

coup
09-23-2020 @ 7:40 AM
Member
Posts: 71
Joined: Sep 2011
          
Here would be my go at it, remove plugs and re fasten wires, lay plugs so touch engine, plug each hole with cork or twisted paper plug, hit starter with ign on and watch for spark, then go to work on cyl that would not blow out cork or spark.
from an old dirt road guy.
I do wish you well.


TomO
09-23-2020 @ 8:54 AM
Senior
Posts: 7243
Joined: Oct 2009
          
Your resistance reading for the coil appear to be very high, normal primary is about 1 ohm and secondary is about 4,000 ohms.

Tom

40 Coupe
09-24-2020 @ 4:47 AM
Senior
Posts: 1645
Joined: Oct 2009
          
I suspect you measured coil resistance improperly since the voltage at the coil reacted properly when distributor points were closed.

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