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EFV-8 Club Forum / General Ford Discussion / '36 won't fire up

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Discussion Topic: '36 won't fire up -- page: 1 2

CDemarest

09-27-2020 @ 12:41 PM

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Thanks to all for the help. I pulled the plugs and with a mini flashlight, I was able to plainly see the valves. All sixteen seemed to open and close fine. I pulled a few plugs and turned the engine over with the ignition on. While grounding the body of each plug to the engine, I didn’t see any spark at all. Previously, I was seeing 6 volts between the coil input and the block that would drop to about 3 volts when I turned the engine over. Something has changed because now the voltage never gets to 6. It bounces between 3 and 3.2 volts as the engine turns. I have two coils and they both exhibit the same thing. Could a set of contacts be stuck closed? Is there someone I could send the whole distributor and coil assembly to for an evaluation?

Thanks!

carcrazy

09-27-2020 @ 1:02 PM

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There is a carbon brush in the bottom of the coil that has to contact the rotor in order for spark to be provided to the spark plugs. This brush could be completely worn down or missing from your coil. Take the coil off of the distributor and make sure the brush is in place as well as the spring behind it which causes it to contact the rotor. These brushes and the springs that fit behind them are available separately from some of the V-8 vendors.

JayChicago

09-27-2020 @ 1:14 PM

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No problem with the input voltage to the coil. 3 volts, plus or minus a few tenths of a volt, is what you should see. The ignition resistor reduces the 6 volt battery voltage down to about 3 volt.

Previously you saw 6 volt at the coil with engine stopped because at that time the engine just happened to roll to a stop with the points open. While points are open there is no current flow, and therefore no voltage drop thru the resistor. So you saw full battery voltage. If you had bumped the starter to get the points to close, your meter would have then read the 3 volt.

This message was edited by JayChicago on 9-27-20 @ 1:22 PM

09-28-2020 @ 6:41 AM

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I would suggest sending your complete distributor to Michael Driskell, at Third Generation Automotive in Tennessee, and let him rebuild it and set the timing on his machine. I would also suggest sending your flattop 2 mounting screw coil to Skip Haney in Punta Gorda, FL to have it rebuilt.
Another possibility to check is your ignition resistor mounted on the inside of firewall behind the dash. I have experienced some of these wire wound resistors checking good when cool, but developing high resistance connections (similar to being open) when they are in a heated condition.
John

This message was edited by JM on 9-28-20 @ 7:21 AM

CDemarest

09-29-2020 @ 7:32 AM

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Thanks, JM. I'm sending them of to those two right now.

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