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Discussion Topic:
'36 won't fire up
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CDemarest |
09-29-2020 @ 7:32 AM
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Member
Posts: 29
Joined: Oct 2019
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Thanks, JM. I'm sending them of to those two right now.
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JM |
09-28-2020 @ 6:41 AM
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Senior
Posts: 822
Joined: Oct 2009
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I would suggest sending your complete distributor to Michael Driskell, at Third Generation Automotive in Tennessee, and let him rebuild it and set the timing on his machine. I would also suggest sending your flattop 2 mounting screw coil to Skip Haney in Punta Gorda, FL to have it rebuilt. Another possibility to check is your ignition resistor mounted on the inside of firewall behind the dash. I have experienced some of these wire wound resistors checking good when cool, but developing high resistance connections (similar to being open) when they are in a heated condition. John
This message was edited by JM on 9-28-20 @ 7:21 AM
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JayChicago |
09-27-2020 @ 1:14 PM
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Member
Posts: 471
Joined: Jan 2016
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No problem with the input voltage to the coil. 3 volts, plus or minus a few tenths of a volt, is what you should see. The ignition resistor reduces the 6 volt battery voltage down to about 3 volt. Previously you saw 6 volt at the coil with engine stopped because at that time the engine just happened to roll to a stop with the points open. While points are open there is no current flow, and therefore no voltage drop thru the resistor. So you saw full battery voltage. If you had bumped the starter to get the points to close, your meter would have then read the 3 volt.
This message was edited by JayChicago on 9-27-20 @ 1:22 PM
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carcrazy |
09-27-2020 @ 1:02 PM
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Senior
Posts: 1587
Joined: Oct 2009
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There is a carbon brush in the bottom of the coil that has to contact the rotor in order for spark to be provided to the spark plugs. This brush could be completely worn down or missing from your coil. Take the coil off of the distributor and make sure the brush is in place as well as the spring behind it which causes it to contact the rotor. These brushes and the springs that fit behind them are available separately from some of the V-8 vendors.
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CDemarest |
09-27-2020 @ 12:41 PM
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Member
Posts: 29
Joined: Oct 2019
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Thanks to all for the help. I pulled the plugs and with a mini flashlight, I was able to plainly see the valves. All sixteen seemed to open and close fine. I pulled a few plugs and turned the engine over with the ignition on. While grounding the body of each plug to the engine, I didn’t see any spark at all. Previously, I was seeing 6 volts between the coil input and the block that would drop to about 3 volts when I turned the engine over. Something has changed because now the voltage never gets to 6. It bounces between 3 and 3.2 volts as the engine turns. I have two coils and they both exhibit the same thing. Could a set of contacts be stuck closed? Is there someone I could send the whole distributor and coil assembly to for an evaluation? Thanks!
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40 Coupe |
09-24-2020 @ 4:47 AM
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Senior
Posts: 1647
Joined: Oct 2009
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I suspect you measured coil resistance improperly since the voltage at the coil reacted properly when distributor points were closed.
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TomO |
09-23-2020 @ 8:54 AM
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Senior
Posts: 7243
Joined: Oct 2009
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Your resistance reading for the coil appear to be very high, normal primary is about 1 ohm and secondary is about 4,000 ohms.
Tom
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coup |
09-23-2020 @ 7:40 AM
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Member
Posts: 71
Joined: Sep 2011
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Here would be my go at it, remove plugs and re fasten wires, lay plugs so touch engine, plug each hole with cork or twisted paper plug, hit starter with ign on and watch for spark, then go to work on cyl that would not blow out cork or spark. from an old dirt road guy. I do wish you well.
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37RAGTOPMAN |
09-23-2020 @ 7:01 AM
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Senior
Posts: 1941
Joined: Oct 2009
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hi do a compression test, like 40 coupe said, these flatheads had problems when sitting, the valves work stick open, esp for 40 years wow, if the valves are stuck open you can use MMO , to lube them and maybe using a probe push the valves down while turning the motor over, do one cylinder at a time, seems to me if you have one firing ,the rest are stuck open, does it spin over easily ? like no compression ? maybe also using PB BLASTER RUST BUSTER, you should see the valves operating though the spark plug hole, using a strong flash light, If compression is ok it is most likely the spark,, you need three things this to make a engine run, GAS, SPARK, COMPRESSION, all in time, hope this helps, 1937 Ragtopman GOOD LUCK,,, let us hear how you made out,!!!
This message was edited by 37RAGTOPMAN on 9-23-20 @ 2:19 PM
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1931 Flamingo |
09-23-2020 @ 6:11 AM
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Member
Posts: 381
Joined: Nov 2019
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Could also be oxidation on the points............... Paul in CT
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