LOGIN
  • Post to the EFV-8 Forum
  • Post Classified Ads
  • Shop the Online Store
User Login

Not Registered Yet? Click Here to Sign Up!



(Forgot your Password?)
Remember me on this computer

Not registered yet?
REGISTER NOW!

Back to Home Page Show Forum Rules

Early Ford V-8 Club Forum

FORUM RULES: Users agree to these Rules when using Forum.

The site administrator reserves the right to change the terms and conditions of the user agreement without prior notice to the user. It is the responsibility of the user to regularly review the terms of this agreement.

The user agrees to the following terms:

  1. All information that you provide to us for your membership is correct.
  2. You will not use your membership to spam, harrass, or exploit other members in any way.
  3. Vulgar, Abusive, Racist and Sexist Language will not be tolerated.
  4. Commercial-type sales postings will not be allowed.
  5. No mass posting or flooding of the boards is allowed.
  6. No Advertising of parts or cars; no Ebay or business/commercial ads (please use the "Classified" for ads Wanted or For Sale).
  7. VIEWING MULTIPLE TOPICS ON SCREEN: You can choose to see more than 10 Topics at a time ... Log In and choose "Preferences" from the top bar on the Forum page. Scroll down and Change the "Default Topics Returned" parameter to 25 or 50, and save the changes. Since this setting is stored in your browser 'cookies' (if enabled), it seems to use that stored value even if you are not logged in. So, if you use a PC that you haven't logged into the forum from, the setting still seem to remain at the default.
  8. EXTERNAL PHOTO LINKS ON FORUM: You can still use external photo links in your posts on the new forum. They follow the rules of any link in that they have to have the URL link qualified down to the full image file name (example: .jpg). The links will open in a new browser window, the same as an uploaded image attached to a post. Since an image attachment to any post does not display inline with the post, the results are the same. You can use multiple external links within a post. This link is from photos on a site from Don Clink's 'Deuce@75' albums:

    http://donclink.com/deuce_75_1/images/dscn2950.jpg

    Using links from photo sites such as Photobucket can help in "size" issue with uploaded attachment files. For best viewing in web browsers, photos should be around the 800x600 pixel range, and probably not more than 1024x768. Most cameras today store HUGE jpg image files, as the default settings are in the 7, 8, 10, and 12Mb image sizes. The image files that are then attached are very large, and the browser can't display the full image size without using the scroll bars. Use the re-sizing functions of your photo editing software to reduce the image to 800x600, which reduces the file sixe and the image load time in the browser. Don uses Google's free Picassa3 software, which is an excellent photo management product. All of the photo albums of the Deuce, Grand National, and Auburn that are links on the NORG site were built using Picassa's web creation functions. And it's free? (THANKS to Don Clink for the info!)
  9. HOW DO I SHOW MY EMAIL ADDRESS ALONG WITH MY USERNAME? You can LogIn on the Forum, and select PREFERENCES. On this page Members can add optional information such as their City,State, Country; Occupation; Hobbies: list a Homepage; list AOL Instant Messanger Handle; Signature; "Make Email Address viewable to others;" and even change the number of Default Topics shown on a page. WHEN others click on your profile, they will see this information.

EFV-8 Club Forum / 1940 Ford Discussion / Oil pressure at 10lbs/Centering the Steering Wheel

   Reply to this DiscussionReply to Discussion | Start new discussionNew Discussion << previous || next >> 
Posted By Discussion Topic: Oil pressure at 10lbs/Centering the Steering Wheel -- page: 1 2

Printer-friendly Version  send this discussion to a friend  new posts last

pech33
06-03-2021 @ 5:24 PM
Member
Posts: 30
Joined: Mar 2011
          
My oil pressure doesn't go above 10lbs no matter how many rpm's. Where do I start first? Gauge? Sending unit? Oil pump? Wire connections appear correct. Also, just replaced the drag link and now the steering wheel is almost a quarter turn to the right for straight travel. Pulled the steering wheel and found out there is a Woodruff key and not splined like later cars, so that is not the way to do it. Looking for help.

kubes40
06-04-2021 @ 4:34 AM
Senior
Posts: 2831
Joined: Oct 2009
          
Drag link: Disconnect the drag link. Set your steering wheel in the center position. Then, adjust the tie rod end so it enters the pitman arm freely. In other words, straight in with no tipping to either side. You may find it necessary to do this more than once.

Low pressure: I would recommend you temporarily install a KNOWN (good) quality after-market gauge to see what the engine is truly doing. Authentic gauges, both the dash and sending unit are not precision pieces.
Prior to simply replacing parts and guessing, you must KNOW what the engine is producing.
If the oil pressure of your newly installed gauge indicates nearly the same as your authentic gauge, let us know and one (or more) of us can walk you through the next steps.
Until then, it's nothing but a guessing game, one I don't tend to bother with. I prefer a methodical approach to diagnosis and subsequent (if necessary) repair.

Mike "Kube" Kubarth

This message was edited by kubes40 on 6-5-21 @ 6:22 AM

pech33
06-05-2021 @ 2:13 PM
Member
Posts: 30
Joined: Mar 2011
          
Went to work on the oil pressure issue. It was a bear to get the sending unit off to put the oil pressure test gauge in. It hold 60 pounds, so I assume it is not the oil pump. Discovered that my radiator is a 91A with an L underneath it. The fill is in the center rather than on the side, so it was replaced at some point I guess. I had to take the floor boards off along with the transmission cover to get to the sending unit. Not as easy as I thought. Found the KingSeeley unit stamped with a 3 on the top and 80 stamped on the brass. YOUNG was on the plywood on the drivers side. It's fun to take Mike's book out to the car and "see what I have".

What do I check next Mike? How do I check the oil sending unit?

On to the steering wheel issue caused by the drag link install.

kubes40
06-05-2021 @ 2:58 PM
Senior
Posts: 2831
Joined: Oct 2009
          
Wow, you've done well already. Good to know the engine has good pressure.
In all of my years, I have never had a defective dash gauge. However, that's simply my experience.

You do have an incorrect engine unit and as such, it will never register the correct reading on the dash gauge. I'd suggest you seek out a NOS 50# unit. This unit will either have "50" stamped in the base or nothing at all stamped in the base.

To test the engine unit, attach a separate ground to that unit. One end should go to ground somewhere on the engine and the other to the terminal screw. Now turn on the ignition (just turn on ignition - do not start engine) and watch your oil dash gauge. If the gauge begins to move, that means the dash gauge is good. TURN off the ignition before the needle gets to 30#. This is designed to be a quick, temporary test.

If the dash gauge does not register, there is either a defective dash gauge and / or poor wiring.

My guess? Incorrect sending unit. When you replace it, do NOT apply any sealer to the threads. NONE!

Mike "Kube" Kubarth

TomO
06-06-2021 @ 8:38 AM
Senior
Posts: 6645
Joined: Oct 2009
          
With all respect to Mike's knowledge and expertise, I must disagree with him.

The mechanical gauge is showing 60# pressure, so a 50# sending unit would peg a working gauge at the max side. An 80# sending unit is needed to get a reasonable estimate of oil pressure. The reading will be about 60% of actual pressure. Your reading of 10# would be about 17# pressure, 20# reading would be about 33# pressure and 35# reading would be about 58# pressure.

The 80# sending unit that you posted a photo of has been repaired at one time. The small V cutout is the clue. It is likely that it needs to be repaired again. The small 30 gauge wire that connects the output contact with the heating element was probably repaired with a solder that is not compatible with the nichrome wire. Hemmings has advertisers that will repair the sending unit. The current reproductions do not work very well and are short lived, because they work on a resistance principal an the original sending units and gauges work on a pulsating current.

The original type 80# sending units show up at swap meets regularly, so you could use your old sending unit until you find a good one. You can test the sending unit using a 6 volt lantern battery, a good dash gauge and an air compressor with a pressure regulator. The dash gauge does not have to be 1940 Ford, any of the Ford products gauges from 1939-1955 will work to test the sending unit.

Tom

kubes40
06-06-2021 @ 9:10 AM
Senior
Posts: 2831
Joined: Oct 2009
          
Pech, Take TomO's advice. I know quite a bit but often defer to this man as well as seek his advice.
HE knows more than I'll surely ever learn.
Sincerely...

Mike "Kube" Kubarth

JayChicago
06-06-2021 @ 9:29 AM
Member
Posts: 273
Joined: Jan 2016
          
Gotta love the interchange above. Two recognized experts interacting, and disagreeing, but done with great respect for each other's knowledge. Wish we could always see this kind of respectful interchange of ideas on these forums.

sarahcecelia
06-11-2021 @ 9:20 AM
Senior
Posts: 1038
Joined: Mar 2013
          
BE CERTAIN THAT THE PITMAN ARM IS IN THE POSITION THAT "KUBES" SAID. YOUR TOE IN NEEDS RE ADJUSTING! RIGHT WHEEL NEEDS TOE OUT,LEFT WHEEL NEEDS TOE IN.IF YOUR STEERING WHEEL IS IN THE STRAIGHT AHEAD POSITION lOOK AT WHERE YOUR WHEELS ARE FACING! TO DO IT BY YOURSELF, YOU HAVE TO VERY CAREFUL TO ADJUST BOTH SIDES EXACTLY THE SAME NUMBER OF TURNS TO KEEP THE SAME TOE IN YOU HAD BEFORE RE ADJUSTING OF IT!!
iT'S VERY TRICKY TO DO WITH OUT "TOE BOARDS", BUT IT CAN BE DONE! YOU CAN BY A PAIR ON LINE FOR ABOUT $60; i DID AND THEY ARE GREAT, AND VERY HANDY TO HAVE!!
Regards, Steve Lee

This message was edited by sarahcecelia on 6-11-21 @ 9:41 AM

pech33
06-13-2021 @ 3:38 PM
Member
Posts: 30
Joined: Mar 2011
          
New 80# sending unit installed, reads 10# warm, high idle. I know it has 60# from the oil pressure test. How do I check the gauge? I assume it is not the wire, it does move off zero. I’m probably facing the same issue with the temp gauge, it doesn’t read at all. The temperature sending unit does appear to be reasonably new. Looks like it had sealer added to the threads. Looking for help.

Pat’s 40 Ragtop

kubes40
06-13-2021 @ 6:46 PM
Senior
Posts: 2831
Joined: Oct 2009
          
Pech, A simple test? Add a ground wire clipped to the unit body and a head nut.

Mike "Kube" Kubarth

<< previous || next >> 
PAGE: 1 2


NOTE: YOU MUST BE A REGISTERED USER AND BE LOGGED IN TO POST (and reply to) messages in this forum. If you are a first time user, please click the CREATE A NEW ACCOUNT in the masthead above to register and Log In. After that, all you do is LOG IN to enjoy using this site.

DISCLAIMER: The V-8 Club does no independent testing of any of the opinions, thoughts or suggestions presented in the website on the Forum, in the Tech Tips section, or any section. A reader should consider the website to be a forum wherein differing solutions to a particular set of circumstances may be discussed. Ultimately, the selection of an item for an individual's vehicle must be based upon the independent study of the vehicle owner in consultation with people in the hobby and restoration experts.


EFV-8 Club Forum Home | Back to Home Page | Contact the Webmaster

Copyright © 2009 - EFV-8.org
Powered by < CF FORUM > v.2.1