Posted By |
Discussion Topic:
Oil pressure at 10lbs/Centering the Steering Wheel
-- page:
1
2
|
|
kubes40 |
06-13-2021 @ 6:49 PM
|
|
|
Senior
Posts: 3366
Joined: Oct 2009
|
Pech, with due respect to Steve, you never want toe "out". Toe in, simply put, is what helps the steering wheel go back to center and keeps the vehicle traveling in a straight line. Toe out? That would be a thill ride I'd not want to experience. Also, the drag link has nothing to do with adjusting the toe in.
Mike "Kube" Kubarth
|
pech33 |
06-14-2021 @ 9:01 AM
|
|
|
Member
Posts: 84
Joined: Mar 2011
|
I put the wire on the terminal and a head bolt, no change in the oil sending unit, the temperature sending unit went off the charts left, almost out of site. Neither appear to be correct.
Pat’s 40 Ragtop
|
pech33 |
06-15-2021 @ 7:33 AM
|
|
|
Member
Posts: 84
Joined: Mar 2011
|
Could I have a “ground” issue?
Pat’s 40 Ragtop
|
TomO |
06-15-2021 @ 8:10 AM
|
|
|
Senior
Posts: 7243
Joined: Oct 2009
|
If your gauge needle moves to the right, it is most likely OK. You can use a King Seeley fuel sending unit to test the gauge. It should follow the float arm. I use my air compressor to check the calibration of the sending unit. Just put an adapter on the sending unit and connect the gauge wire and ground the sending unit with another wire. Set your pressure regulator at 80# and read the gauge. It should be at full scale. Reduce the pressure to 40# and the gauge should read near the center. The new reproduction sending units do not use the pulse current that the original King=Seeley units did, so they are not as accurate as the originals. You can find the originals on E-Bay or at swap meets. The 80# units show up regularly. https://www.ebay.com/itm/324675397435?hash=item4b9829673b:g:bl8AAOSwpElgwB0Y
Tom
|
pech33 |
06-16-2021 @ 5:17 AM
|
|
|
Member
Posts: 84
Joined: Mar 2011
|
That’s the next thing to do after I figure out the window regulator and get that door put back together. Thanks.
Pat’s 40 Ragtop
|