| pech33 | -- 06-03-2021 @ 5:24 PM |
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My oil pressure doesn't go above 10lbs no matter how many rpm's. Where do I start first? Gauge? Sending unit? Oil pump? Wire connections appear correct. Also, just replaced the drag link and now the steering wheel is almost a quarter turn to the right for straight travel. Pulled the steering wheel and found out there is a Woodruff key and not splined like later cars, so that is not the way to do it. Looking for help.
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| kubes40 | -- 06-04-2021 @ 4:34 AM |
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Drag link: Disconnect the drag link. Set your steering wheel in the center position. Then, adjust the tie rod end so it enters the pitman arm freely. In other words, straight in with no tipping to either side. You may find it necessary to do this more than once. Low pressure: I would recommend you temporarily install a KNOWN (good) quality after-market gauge to see what the engine is truly doing. Authentic gauges, both the dash and sending unit are not precision pieces. Prior to simply replacing parts and guessing, you must KNOW what the engine is producing. If the oil pressure of your newly installed gauge indicates nearly the same as your authentic gauge, let us know and one (or more) of us can walk you through the next steps. Until then, it's nothing but a guessing game, one I don't tend to bother with. I prefer a methodical approach to diagnosis and subsequent (if necessary) repair. Mike "Kube" Kubarth This message was edited by kubes40 on 6-5-21 @ 6:22 AM
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| pech33 | -- 06-05-2021 @ 2:13 PM |
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Went to work on the oil pressure issue. It was a bear to get the sending unit off to put the oil pressure test gauge in. It hold 60 pounds, so I assume it is not the oil pump. Discovered that my radiator is a 91A with an L underneath it. The fill is in the center rather than on the side, so it was replaced at some point I guess. I had to take the floor boards off along with the transmission cover to get to the sending unit. Not as easy as I thought. Found the KingSeeley unit stamped with a 3 on the top and 80 stamped on the brass. YOUNG was on the plywood on the drivers side. It's fun to take Mike's book out to the car and "see what I have". What do I check next Mike? How do I check the oil sending unit? On to the steering wheel issue caused by the drag link install.
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| kubes40 | -- 06-05-2021 @ 2:58 PM |
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Wow, you've done well already. Good to know the engine has good pressure. In all of my years, I have never had a defective dash gauge. However, that's simply my experience. You do have an incorrect engine unit and as such, it will never register the correct reading on the dash gauge. I'd suggest you seek out a NOS 50# unit. This unit will either have "50" stamped in the base or nothing at all stamped in the base. To test the engine unit, attach a separate ground to that unit. One end should go to ground somewhere on the engine and the other to the terminal screw. Now turn on the ignition (just turn on ignition - do not start engine) and watch your oil dash gauge. If the gauge begins to move, that means the dash gauge is good. TURN off the ignition before the needle gets to 30#. This is designed to be a quick, temporary test. If the dash gauge does not register, there is either a defective dash gauge and / or poor wiring. My guess? Incorrect sending unit. When you replace it, do NOT apply any sealer to the threads. NONE! Mike "Kube" Kubarth
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| TomO | -- 06-06-2021 @ 8:38 AM |
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With all respect to Mike's knowledge and expertise, I must disagree with him. The mechanical gauge is showing 60# pressure, so a 50# sending unit would peg a working gauge at the max side. An 80# sending unit is needed to get a reasonable estimate of oil pressure. The reading will be about 60% of actual pressure. Your reading of 10# would be about 17# pressure, 20# reading would be about 33# pressure and 35# reading would be about 58# pressure. The 80# sending unit that you posted a photo of has been repaired at one time. The small V cutout is the clue. It is likely that it needs to be repaired again. The small 30 gauge wire that connects the output contact with the heating element was probably repaired with a solder that is not compatible with the nichrome wire. Hemmings has advertisers that will repair the sending unit. The current reproductions do not work very well and are short lived, because they work on a resistance principal an the original sending units and gauges work on a pulsating current. The original type 80# sending units show up at swap meets regularly, so you could use your old sending unit until you find a good one. You can test the sending unit using a 6 volt lantern battery, a good dash gauge and an air compressor with a pressure regulator. The dash gauge does not have to be 1940 Ford, any of the Ford products gauges from 1939-1955 will work to test the sending unit. Tom
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| kubes40 | -- 06-06-2021 @ 9:10 AM |
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Pech, Take TomO's advice. I know quite a bit but often defer to this man as well as seek his advice. HE knows more than I'll surely ever learn. Sincerely... Mike "Kube" Kubarth
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| JayChicago | -- 06-06-2021 @ 9:29 AM |
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Gotta love the interchange above. Two recognized experts interacting, and disagreeing, but done with great respect for each other's knowledge. Wish we could always see this kind of respectful interchange of ideas on these forums.
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| sarahcecelia | -- 06-11-2021 @ 9:20 AM |
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BE CERTAIN THAT THE PITMAN ARM IS IN THE POSITION THAT "KUBES" SAID. YOUR TOE IN NEEDS RE ADJUSTING! RIGHT WHEEL NEEDS TOE OUT,LEFT WHEEL NEEDS TOE IN.IF YOUR STEERING WHEEL IS IN THE STRAIGHT AHEAD POSITION lOOK AT WHERE YOUR WHEELS ARE FACING! TO DO IT BY YOURSELF, YOU HAVE TO VERY CAREFUL TO ADJUST BOTH SIDES EXACTLY THE SAME NUMBER OF TURNS TO KEEP THE SAME TOE IN YOU HAD BEFORE RE ADJUSTING OF IT!! iT'S VERY TRICKY TO DO WITH OUT "TOE BOARDS", BUT IT CAN BE DONE! YOU CAN BY A PAIR ON LINE FOR ABOUT $60; i DID AND THEY ARE GREAT, AND VERY HANDY TO HAVE!! Regards, Steve Lee This message was edited by sarahcecelia on 6-11-21 @ 9:41 AM
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| pech33 | -- 06-13-2021 @ 3:38 PM |
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New 80# sending unit installed, reads 10# warm, high idle. I know it has 60# from the oil pressure test. How do I check the gauge? I assume it is not the wire, it does move off zero. I’m probably facing the same issue with the temp gauge, it doesn’t read at all. The temperature sending unit does appear to be reasonably new. Looks like it had sealer added to the threads. Looking for help. Pat’s 40 Ragtop
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| kubes40 | -- 06-13-2021 @ 6:46 PM |
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Pech, A simple test? Add a ground wire clipped to the unit body and a head nut. Mike "Kube" Kubarth
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| kubes40 | -- 06-13-2021 @ 6:49 PM |
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Pech, with due respect to Steve, you never want toe "out". Toe in, simply put, is what helps the steering wheel go back to center and keeps the vehicle traveling in a straight line. Toe out? That would be a thill ride I'd not want to experience. Also, the drag link has nothing to do with adjusting the toe in. Mike "Kube" Kubarth
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| pech33 | -- 06-14-2021 @ 9:01 AM |
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I put the wire on the terminal and a head bolt, no change in the oil sending unit, the temperature sending unit went off the charts left, almost out of site. Neither appear to be correct. Pat’s 40 Ragtop
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| pech33 | -- 06-15-2021 @ 7:33 AM |
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Could I have a “ground” issue? Pat’s 40 Ragtop
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| TomO | -- 06-15-2021 @ 8:10 AM |
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If your gauge needle moves to the right, it is most likely OK. You can use a King Seeley fuel sending unit to test the gauge. It should follow the float arm. I use my air compressor to check the calibration of the sending unit. Just put an adapter on the sending unit and connect the gauge wire and ground the sending unit with another wire. Set your pressure regulator at 80# and read the gauge. It should be at full scale. Reduce the pressure to 40# and the gauge should read near the center. The new reproduction sending units do not use the pulse current that the original King=Seeley units did, so they are not as accurate as the originals. You can find the originals on E-Bay or at swap meets. The 80# units show up regularly. https://www.ebay.com/itm/324675397435?hash=item4b9829673b:g:bl8AAOSwpElgwB0Y Tom
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| pech33 | -- 06-16-2021 @ 5:17 AM |
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That’s the next thing to do after I figure out the window regulator and get that door put back together. Thanks. Pat’s 40 Ragtop
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