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EFV-8 Club Forum / General Ford Discussion / Adjusting Clutch Fingers 1935

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Posted By Discussion Topic: Adjusting Clutch Fingers 1935 -- page: 1 2     TomO 03-15-2011 @ 7:41 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 7244 Joined: Oct 2009 Here is a copy of the adjustment specifications. It is very difficult to do while the engine is in the car, and I recommend that you have someone with the fixture do the job. http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u197/mercurytom/clutch-adj.jpg Tom 35ragtop 03-15-2011 @ 1:40 PM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 57 Joined: Aug 2010 Thank you again everyone, Im going to address the problem today! Thanks Tomo for the specs, at least when I get the engine out I can check these dimensions. I am ordering a recon pressure plate and new clutch plate from Fort Wayne, have been in touch with them already. Happy Ford ing Dave h 37RAGTOPMAN 03-18-2011 @ 4:56 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 1942 Joined: Oct 2009 35ragtop I would also have the flywheel checked, or machined,make sure it is not cracked,or nay other issues, that might have caused chatter, also relacing the pilot bearing, and check the input shaft for any wear on the nose of it,try a new pilot bearing on it just for ho ho's see if it is tight, my 3 cents worth 37RAGTOPMAN supereal 03-18-2011 @ 8:43 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 6819 Joined: Oct 2009 Dave: Before we attach the clutch, we scour the surface of the flywheel with a Scotchbrite wheel chucked in a drill to remove the glaze and give us a better view of the surface. If the surface is burned or checked, the flywheel comes off and goes to our resurfacing machine. Occasionally we get a flywheel that has been cut too far. This can show up as a ridge where the plate bolts on. If you find that, the flywheel will have to be machined so the clutch will fully engage. If you find a solid brass pilot bearing, replace it with a sealed ball type. TomO 03-18-2011 @ 2:08 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 7244 Joined: Oct 2009 35 ragtop, While you have your engine out of the car, check the flywheel run out also. This should be checked at the edge of the flywheel and at the clutch surface. The run out should be .005 or less. When you install your clutch, place wedges between the arms and the case of the pressure plate to relieve the pressure on the clutch disc. This will prevent distorting the pressure plate when you tighten the bolts. Tom BrianCT 03-18-2011 @ 3:13 PM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 95 Joined: Oct 2009 I would highly recommend balancing the clutch and pp as a unit or be prepared to pull it out again. Stroker 03-18-2011 @ 3:49 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 1460 Joined: Oct 2009 BrianCT: Not trying to be "picky", but I'd suggest that the flywheel and pressure plate be balanced, and the respective components marked with a punch to ensure that they are re-assembled in the same relative orientation as they were when they were balanced. The clutch disk will always be in a random position in reference to this assembly, plus it has such little mass that it is insignificant regarding the overall balance of the assembly. If you were to choose to balance the clutch disc, it should be balanced separately so that it is in balance "by itself", so that it doesn't contribute to unbalance of the flywheel/pressure plate rotating assembly. 35 Ragtop: You have gotten great advice from everyone. It's just too bad that todays clutch re builders don't do what all good automotive service shops used to do, and that is to set up the fingers on their jig before letting it out the door. So many modern clutches use a diaphragm, and I doubt whether most shops are even familiar with the old Long and Borg and Beck designs. I'm sure that Supereal's shop is, and my local shop is, but for the vast majority, it has become a lost art. Fort Wayne should do it just fine.

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