| 35ragtop | -- 03-13-2011 @ 12:49 PM |
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Hi I am trying to adjust the 3 fingers on my 35 clutch and am wondering if Henry used a special crancked open ended spanner. The bolts are extremely tight and a straight spanner slips off easily.The bolts I am talking about are the ones that adjust the gap to the throw out bearing. Any suggestions would be appreciated thanks
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| kubes40 | -- 03-13-2011 @ 1:35 PM |
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As I recall those three screws are cinched once the original adjustment is made. I have welded these up (the heads)and ground them back to the correct specification. I give you credit in checking this critical area. MANY rebuilt pressure plates and some new (import junk)over look this specification. To find this out once the assembly is installed is sad to say the least.
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| 35ragtop | -- 03-13-2011 @ 4:13 PM |
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mmmm thanks kubes40. yes sadly I suspected that it may mean pulling the gearbox again. I wish I had given the engine and running gear a drive around the block before putting the body on! To check the measurement with the gearbox off do I measure from the face of the flywheel? I am assuming that this adjustment will get rid of the clutch shudder.
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| 37RAGTOPMAN | -- 03-13-2011 @ 4:34 PM |
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I was wondering why you are try ajusting the pressure plate,? clutch slipping ?, grinding into gear,? the pressure plate were set up outside of the car on a work bench with special tools, I think what you are trying to do is a hit and miss, if someone installed the clutch wrong and warped the PRESSURE Plate, you will never get it right, also if the face of the flywheel was resurfaced, the outside edge where you tighten down the flywheel should have been machined also, what you take of the flywheel you have to take the exact same amout of the leading edge also,this depth has be maintained, this measurement is critical, if you neen clutch parts try JOB LOT in NY, They advertise that they have clutch kits, and sell them in a set or seperate, hope this helps 37RGTOPMAN please post any updates so we know how you made out,
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| 35ragtop | -- 03-13-2011 @ 6:32 PM |
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I read somewhere recently that if the throwout bearing did not engage all three fingers at the same time, this could cause clutch shudder. So what I noticed when peering into the inspection hole, that one finger was engaging before the other two, hence my decision to try and adjust the threaded bolt on the tip of the finger. I can remember my teacher back in the 60s saying a little knowledge is a dangerous thing!
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| kubes40 | -- 03-14-2011 @ 7:01 AM |
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It's true the height of these fingers must be adjusted with the pressure plate in it's free (relaxed) state. The were SUPPOSED to have been set up but as I stated earlier that is often NOT the reality. Import poop and poor rebuilds... just doesn't always happen. It's easy enough to adjust when you have it on your bench. You will need an accurate way to measure the height. A calibrated height stand does the trick. Know anyone that is in quality control? As much as I like Joblot, I'd NOT buy one of their clutches. I simply wouldn't risk it to save a few bucks. Surge Clutch in Illinois makes NEW ones that are reasonably priced and beautiful. As you are finding out, this job stinks when you have to do it twice. I, like you, found this out the same way you are now doing. If those fingers don't come in contact with the bearing at the same time, the bearing will prematurely fail.
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| supereal | -- 03-14-2011 @ 8:53 AM |
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It is virtually impossible to adjust the pressure plate fingers without the jig used at assembly. Once you move any of them, the pressure plate will not function properly. The usual reason for one or more fingers not contacting the release bearing is due to a broken or misplaced spring in the pressure plate. When installing the plate, it is necessary to start all the bolts attaching it to the flywheel, then draw them down a few turns at a time as you go around the flywheel. Otherwise, it is likely you will warp the case enough to produce your problem.
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| 35ragtop | -- 03-14-2011 @ 2:35 PM |
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Well thank you guys once again for your help. When I installed the plate set I did the gentle tighten down routine and everything looked fine at the time. I must admit that I failed to check the contact with the fingers once I had the gbox in place.Only found the problem when I tried to go for a run. Does anyone have a comment on Fort Wayne reconditioned systems ? Dave h
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| 39 Ken | -- 03-15-2011 @ 4:31 AM |
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Ft. Wayne Clutch has a good reputation. I haven't used them, but I plan to on my next rebuild. Friends that have used them indicate that they do good work. Ken
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| kubes40 | -- 03-15-2011 @ 6:38 AM |
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Ft. Wayne Clutch is in fact another good place. A bit more costly than Surge but good nonetheless. The fingers can be adjusted without a fixture. There is a specification from the face of the pressure plate to each finger (free state). I have found remanufactured clutches rarely address this specification and as the fingers wear from usage, this dimension goes outside the necessary specs. Unfortunately another example of the seemingly lost art of true quailty workmanship...
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| TomO | -- 03-15-2011 @ 7:41 AM |
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Here is a copy of the adjustment specifications. It is very difficult to do while the engine is in the car, and I recommend that you have someone with the fixture do the job. http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u197/mercurytom/clutch-adj.jpg Tom
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| 35ragtop | -- 03-15-2011 @ 1:40 PM |
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Thank you again everyone, Im going to address the problem today! Thanks Tomo for the specs, at least when I get the engine out I can check these dimensions. I am ordering a recon pressure plate and new clutch plate from Fort Wayne, have been in touch with them already. Happy Ford ing Dave h
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| 37RAGTOPMAN | -- 03-18-2011 @ 4:56 AM |
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35ragtop I would also have the flywheel checked, or machined,make sure it is not cracked,or nay other issues, that might have caused chatter, also relacing the pilot bearing, and check the input shaft for any wear on the nose of it,try a new pilot bearing on it just for ho ho's see if it is tight, my 3 cents worth 37RAGTOPMAN
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| supereal | -- 03-18-2011 @ 8:43 AM |
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Dave: Before we attach the clutch, we scour the surface of the flywheel with a Scotchbrite wheel chucked in a drill to remove the glaze and give us a better view of the surface. If the surface is burned or checked, the flywheel comes off and goes to our resurfacing machine. Occasionally we get a flywheel that has been cut too far. This can show up as a ridge where the plate bolts on. If you find that, the flywheel will have to be machined so the clutch will fully engage. If you find a solid brass pilot bearing, replace it with a sealed ball type.
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| TomO | -- 03-18-2011 @ 2:08 PM |
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35 ragtop, While you have your engine out of the car, check the flywheel run out also. This should be checked at the edge of the flywheel and at the clutch surface. The run out should be .005 or less. When you install your clutch, place wedges between the arms and the case of the pressure plate to relieve the pressure on the clutch disc. This will prevent distorting the pressure plate when you tighten the bolts. Tom
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| BrianCT | -- 03-18-2011 @ 3:13 PM |
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I would highly recommend balancing the clutch and pp as a unit or be prepared to pull it out again.
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| Stroker | -- 03-18-2011 @ 3:49 PM |
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BrianCT: Not trying to be "picky", but I'd suggest that the flywheel and pressure plate be balanced, and the respective components marked with a punch to ensure that they are re-assembled in the same relative orientation as they were when they were balanced. The clutch disk will always be in a random position in reference to this assembly, plus it has such little mass that it is insignificant regarding the overall balance of the assembly. If you were to choose to balance the clutch disc, it should be balanced separately so that it is in balance "by itself", so that it doesn't contribute to unbalance of the flywheel/pressure plate rotating assembly. 35 Ragtop: You have gotten great advice from everyone. It's just too bad that todays clutch re builders don't do what all good automotive service shops used to do, and that is to set up the fingers on their jig before letting it out the door. So many modern clutches use a diaphragm, and I doubt whether most shops are even familiar with the old Long and Borg and Beck designs. I'm sure that Supereal's shop is, and my local shop is, but for the vast majority, it has become a lost art. Fort Wayne should do it just fine.
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