Early Ford V-8 Club Forum

EFV-8 Club Forum / General Ford Discussion / Removing 1936 Transmission Question

Reply to Discussion | New Discussion << previous || next >>

Posted By Discussion Topic: Removing 1936 Transmission Question -- page: 1 2     Ketronj281989 10-25-2020 @ 4:58 PM reply profile send p.m. New Member Posts: 143 Joined: Jul 2020 Tom, Thanks for the response, much appreciated. I am currently having trouble trying to remove the left hand exhaust pipe from the exhaust manifold, it seems as if the rust welded the bolts and metal together. Once removed I plan to utilize an engine hoist to take out the engine for transmission access. I think it would be a good idea to get the entire transmission inspected and rebuilt. Plans for this car are to make it a daily driver, want the mechanical in top like new condition to make it there. Jon Ketron 1936 Ford V8 Standard Tudor Touring Sedan TomO 10-26-2020 @ 8:05 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 7244 Joined: Oct 2009 You should heat the exhaust pipe NUTS to cherry red and then try removing them with an impact wrench with short bursts or by working them back and forth with a 3/8" socket wrench. Only use a 6 point socket a 12 point may round the nut. The smaller wrench will keep the torque down and it may prevent breaking the studs. It may take several rounds of heating and cooling to break the rust bond. Tom Model B 10-26-2020 @ 9:04 AM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 89 Joined: Oct 2009 The suggestion to contact Mac VanPelt is a good one! He is the "go to" guy for Early Ford Transmissions. His contact information however is: VanPelt Sales, LLC P.O. Box 327 Batavia, OH 45103 PH: (513) 724-9486 (800) 299-7496 www.vanpeltsales.com Pat therunwaybehind 10-27-2020 @ 9:13 AM reply profile send p.m. New Member Posts: 180 Joined: May 2019 I don't know if this is good advice specific to old Fords or not but I would replace the steel nuts after you get them off with brass ones. Also instead of heating the fasteners to cherry red which will weaken them get a Nutbuster and crack them being a bit careful not to powder the little ball that gives smoothness to the mechanism. I had a 3/4 size NCG Acetylene rig but used it to weld sheet metal and such and never as a "gas wrench." I did explore using it as a way of shrinking a fender after stretching it by pounding especially with a pick hammer body hammer and backup tool. Maybe later. Patience is a virtue in recreating body shape. I had good luck on the nose of my hood after a deer encounter but poor results after the fender was hardened by someone else welding the crack in the upper fender with an arc welder before I took welding at Junior College from an old pipeline welder and bought the tanks and rig. Ford sheet metal takes a a very strong hit. fenbach 10-28-2020 @ 8:30 PM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 227 Joined: Dec 2009 i'd recommend having your tranny friend friend use '39-'48 gears in a rebuild. at some cost, to be sure, but the synchronizer is WAY better. you'll also need a '39 shift fork for 2nd-3rd. at the very least, put in a new synchronizer. i'd also recommend buying a new throw-out bearing from joe lemelen in MA https://www.joesantiqueauto.com if you want made in USA, that is. timkin brand. on the box, anyway. part no. B-7580. or, mac van pelt is a good ohio boy, just up the road from you. and he also has a throw-out bearing in his catalog, http://www.vanpeltsales.com/FH_web/vanpeltcatalog2019.pdf you'll have to ask what brand. This message was edited by fenbach on 10-28-20 @ 9:14 PM Ketronj281989 10-31-2020 @ 12:55 PM reply profile send p.m. New Member Posts: 143 Joined: Jul 2020 Tom, Thank you for providing pointers on the exhaust nuts. I have been soaking daily each joint area/nut/bolt with kroil for an entire month now. The use of a steel brush to remove some of the rust build up around these areas has slightly helped. Guess heat will be my next path. As of now, the bolts have so much rust on them the spanner wrench will not fit over the hex head nut. I will continue to troubleshoot! Jon Ketron 1936 Ford V8 Standard Tudor Touring Sedan This message was edited by Ketronj281989 on 10-31-20 @ 12:56 PM Ketronj281989 10-31-2020 @ 12:56 PM reply profile send p.m. New Member Posts: 143 Joined: Jul 2020 Pat, Thanks for the info! Jon Ketron 1936 Ford V8 Standard Tudor Touring Sedan Ketronj281989 10-31-2020 @ 1:00 PM reply profile send p.m. New Member Posts: 143 Joined: Jul 2020 fenbach, Thanks for your recommendations. I will see about obtaining USA made parts for the trans. rebuild once tackled. Thanks for the pointers and ordering information. Jon Ketron 1936 Ford V8 Standard Tudor Touring Sedan carcrazy 10-31-2020 @ 3:51 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 1595 Joined: Oct 2009 One trick to removing rusted nuts or studs is to heat the part with a torch until it glows dark red and touch it with a beeswax candle. Hold the candle so that when the wax melts it will flow around the threaded joint. When the beeswax melts it becomes less viscous than water and will wick itself into the seized joint. It may take a few applications of beeswax to loosen the fastener. Ketronj281989 11-26-2020 @ 2:41 PM reply profile send p.m. New Member Posts: 143 Joined: Jul 2020 carcrazy, Great tip, thanks! I will have to try this one upon tackling the rusted studs/nuts on the exhaust manifolds. Thanks, Jon Ketron 1936 Ford V8 Standard Tudor Touring Sedan

<< previous || next >>

PAGE: 1 2

NOTE: YOU MUST BE A REGISTERED USER AND BE LOGGED IN TO POST (and reply to) messages in this forum. If you are a first time user, please click the CREATE A NEW ACCOUNT in the masthead above to register and Log In. After that, all you do is LOG IN to enjoy using this site.

DISCLAIMER: The V-8 Club does no independent testing of any of the opinions, thoughts or suggestions presented in the website on the Forum, in the Tech Tips section, or any section. A reader should consider the website to be a forum wherein differing solutions to a particular set of circumstances may be discussed. Ultimately, the selection of an item for an individual's vehicle must be based upon the independent study of the vehicle owner in consultation with people in the hobby and restoration experts.

EFV-8 Club Forum Home | Back to Home Page | Contact the Webmaster

Copyright © 2009 - EFV-8.org
Powered by < CF FORUM > v.2.1