| Ketronj281989 | -- 10-22-2020 @ 2:46 PM |
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So I understand the transmission can be disconnected from the rear end or engine then lifted out thru the cab in order to be removed from the car. I may remove the engine to service several items, motor mounts need replaced too. Is there a certain procedure regarding the transmission removal if I were to continue this way with engine removal first? Troubleshooting previously with the car in operation post purchase indicates I may need to replace the clutch disk as well as check or service the throw out bearing. The clutch makes a hum noise when I hold the pedal down to disengage from the flywheel. The car will not shift gears when driving down the road at normal RPM. It's either stay in first gear or rack the transmission every time I try to shift to 2nd. I am guessing the clutch is not releasing all the way, not allowing me to move the lever from 1st to 2nd. No matter how gentle and smooth I was, it would not go into 2nd heading down the road and would rack every single time. Shifting into second at a stop and then applying throttle with clutch release and the car started to go backward in reverse!!! Perhaps a linkage issue? I would probably be better off to just remove the transmission and have it re-built by a good friend in Nashville. This would eliminate future service work. I plan to drive this car a lot so it may be the best option to save time down the road! Jon Ketron 1936 Ford V8 Tudor Touring Sedan This message was edited by Ketronj281989 on 10-22-20 @ 2:50 PM
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| kubes40 | -- 10-22-2020 @ 3:02 PM |
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It is in my opinion, it's much easier to pull the torque tube / differential back a few inches and pull the transmission out through the floor. I'd done this very same task last summer. At that time I'd replaced the rear transmission mount. When you replace the clutch disc, you MUST replace the throwout bearing and pressure plate at the same time. Do not attempt to save a few bucks. If you do, rest assured, it'll come back and bite ya. Do you have the authentic floor shift transmission? If so, your issue is not linkage. Hey, as long as you'll have the transmission out and you have a friend that knows what he's doing... go through the transmission at that time. A new synchronizer assembly is a must as long as its (trans.) apart. And of course, whatever else is worn including the clutch release shaft and respective bushings. Check all of the pivot points of the clutch arm and associate linkage. A little wear in any of those areas effects the clutch release operation exponentially. I'd also replaced the universal joint. It was worn only a little but figured that was the "proper" time to do so. The photo I've attached is from my '36 roadster I'd done this work to. The torque tube needs to be pulled back only even with the floor pan edge - maybe 6" or so. Mike "Kube" Kubarth This message was edited by kubes40 on 10-22-20 @ 3:05 PM
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| TomO | -- 10-23-2020 @ 7:03 AM |
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When I plan on replacing the clutch disc and rebuilding the pressure plate, I like to pull the engine. I do this because if I need to have the flywheel refaced, the pan has to come off and that is easier to do with the engine out of the car. Tom
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| nelsb01 | -- 10-23-2020 @ 9:52 AM |
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Remember no matter which you take out first, that the other part needs to be supported. So, if the rear end is slid back to remove the transmission first, you need to support the rear of the engine. If the engine comes out first, you need to support the front of the transmission. A 2x4 and a bottle jack work best for this, but a 2x4 and a floor jack also work.
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| Ketronj281989 | -- 10-23-2020 @ 3:29 PM |
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Mike, Appreciate the response. To my knowledge, my car still retains it's numbers matching transmission housing which matches the frame number. Yes, I do have the authentic top loader floor transmission. I will likely ask my Nashville friend to perform a full rebuild if he is ok with this. I would rather spend the money and do it right than cut corners. I don't think my OCD could deal with cutting corners! I will be sure to replace the clutch disc, throw-out bearing, and pressure plate all together. Thanks for this info, my first time with an transmission! Jon Ketron 1936 Ford V8 Tudor Touring Sedan
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| Ketronj281989 | -- 10-23-2020 @ 3:32 PM |
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Tom, Thanks for your response. I think I will pull the engine as I have more front end work to perform than rear for the time being. That said I will eventually have to get into the running gear. Do you have a procedure for taking out the engine/transmission at the front of the car. Thanks, Jon Ketron 1936 Ford V8 Tudor Touring Sedan
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| Ketronj281989 | -- 10-23-2020 @ 3:33 PM |
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nelsb01, Greatly appreciate the info! I will remember this once I dig in. Thanks, Jon Ketron 1936 Ford V8 Tudor Touring Sedan
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| 39 Ken | -- 10-24-2020 @ 4:38 AM |
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Jon, If your friend in Nashville can't help you out with your transmission, I suggest you call Mac Van Pelt and arrange for him to re-do your transmission. Mac is one of the best in the business and he is relatively close to you. Mac Van Pelt 40007 State Route 14, Columbiana, OH 44408 (330) 482-0700 Also, I suggest that you do not replace your clutch and pressure plate. Most new one's today are made in China and are of dubious quality. I send mine to Fort Wayne clutch and have them rebuild the original parts to Ford standard. Fort Wayne Clutch fortwayneclutch.com 2424 Goshen Rd, Fort Wayne, IN 46808 (260) 484-8505 Ken This message was edited by 39 Ken on 10-24-20 @ 4:38 AM
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| TomO | -- 10-24-2020 @ 8:19 AM |
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Jon, I don't have a procedure to remove the engine and transmission from a 1936 Ford, but from what I remember it is a fairly straight forward job after removing the hood and radiator. Tom
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| Ketronj281989 | -- 10-25-2020 @ 4:54 PM |
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Ken, Really appreciate your advice on the subject. Yes, want to stay away from the "made in China" as much as possible. I may inquire to Van Pelt (I have been reading a great transmission book by him, later years trans. though!) and have added Fort Wayne Clutch to my list of viable service shops to look into. Thanks for the tips and guidance Jon Ketron 1936 Ford V8 Standard Tudor Touring Sedan
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| Ketronj281989 | -- 10-25-2020 @ 4:58 PM |
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Tom, Thanks for the response, much appreciated. I am currently having trouble trying to remove the left hand exhaust pipe from the exhaust manifold, it seems as if the rust welded the bolts and metal together. Once removed I plan to utilize an engine hoist to take out the engine for transmission access. I think it would be a good idea to get the entire transmission inspected and rebuilt. Plans for this car are to make it a daily driver, want the mechanical in top like new condition to make it there. Jon Ketron 1936 Ford V8 Standard Tudor Touring Sedan
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| TomO | -- 10-26-2020 @ 8:05 AM |
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You should heat the exhaust pipe NUTS to cherry red and then try removing them with an impact wrench with short bursts or by working them back and forth with a 3/8" socket wrench. Only use a 6 point socket a 12 point may round the nut. The smaller wrench will keep the torque down and it may prevent breaking the studs. It may take several rounds of heating and cooling to break the rust bond. Tom
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| Model B | -- 10-26-2020 @ 9:04 AM |
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The suggestion to contact Mac VanPelt is a good one! He is the "go to" guy for Early Ford Transmissions. His contact information however is: VanPelt Sales, LLC P.O. Box 327 Batavia, OH 45103 PH: (513) 724-9486 (800) 299-7496 www.vanpeltsales.com Pat
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| therunwaybehind | -- 10-27-2020 @ 9:13 AM |
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I don't know if this is good advice specific to old Fords or not but I would replace the steel nuts after you get them off with brass ones. Also instead of heating the fasteners to cherry red which will weaken them get a Nutbuster and crack them being a bit careful not to powder the little ball that gives smoothness to the mechanism. I had a 3/4 size NCG Acetylene rig but used it to weld sheet metal and such and never as a "gas wrench." I did explore using it as a way of shrinking a fender after stretching it by pounding especially with a pick hammer body hammer and backup tool. Maybe later. Patience is a virtue in recreating body shape. I had good luck on the nose of my hood after a deer encounter but poor results after the fender was hardened by someone else welding the crack in the upper fender with an arc welder before I took welding at Junior College from an old pipeline welder and bought the tanks and rig. Ford sheet metal takes a a very strong hit.
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| fenbach | -- 10-28-2020 @ 8:30 PM |
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i'd recommend having your tranny friend friend use '39-'48 gears in a rebuild. at some cost, to be sure, but the synchronizer is WAY better. you'll also need a '39 shift fork for 2nd-3rd. at the very least, put in a new synchronizer. i'd also recommend buying a new throw-out bearing from joe lemelen in MA https://www.joesantiqueauto.com if you want made in USA, that is. timkin brand. on the box, anyway. part no. B-7580. or, mac van pelt is a good ohio boy, just up the road from you. and he also has a throw-out bearing in his catalog, http://www.vanpeltsales.com/FH_web/vanpeltcatalog2019.pdf you'll have to ask what brand. This message was edited by fenbach on 10-28-20 @ 9:14 PM
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| Ketronj281989 | -- 10-31-2020 @ 12:55 PM |
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Tom, Thank you for providing pointers on the exhaust nuts. I have been soaking daily each joint area/nut/bolt with kroil for an entire month now. The use of a steel brush to remove some of the rust build up around these areas has slightly helped. Guess heat will be my next path. As of now, the bolts have so much rust on them the spanner wrench will not fit over the hex head nut. I will continue to troubleshoot! Jon Ketron 1936 Ford V8 Standard Tudor Touring Sedan This message was edited by Ketronj281989 on 10-31-20 @ 12:56 PM
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| Ketronj281989 | -- 10-31-2020 @ 12:56 PM |
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Pat, Thanks for the info! Jon Ketron 1936 Ford V8 Standard Tudor Touring Sedan
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| Ketronj281989 | -- 10-31-2020 @ 1:00 PM |
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fenbach, Thanks for your recommendations. I will see about obtaining USA made parts for the trans. rebuild once tackled. Thanks for the pointers and ordering information. Jon Ketron 1936 Ford V8 Standard Tudor Touring Sedan
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| carcrazy | -- 10-31-2020 @ 3:51 PM |
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One trick to removing rusted nuts or studs is to heat the part with a torch until it glows dark red and touch it with a beeswax candle. Hold the candle so that when the wax melts it will flow around the threaded joint. When the beeswax melts it becomes less viscous than water and will wick itself into the seized joint. It may take a few applications of beeswax to loosen the fastener.
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| Ketronj281989 | -- 11-26-2020 @ 2:41 PM |
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carcrazy, Great tip, thanks! I will have to try this one upon tackling the rusted studs/nuts on the exhaust manifolds. Thanks, Jon Ketron 1936 Ford V8 Standard Tudor Touring Sedan
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