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Posted By Discussion Topic: Removing 1936 Transmission Question -- page: 1 2     Ketronj281989 10-22-2020 @ 2:46 PM reply profile send p.m. New Member Posts: 143 Joined: Jul 2020 So I understand the transmission can be disconnected from the rear end or engine then lifted out thru the cab in order to be removed from the car. I may remove the engine to service several items, motor mounts need replaced too. Is there a certain procedure regarding the transmission removal if I were to continue this way with engine removal first? Troubleshooting previously with the car in operation post purchase indicates I may need to replace the clutch disk as well as check or service the throw out bearing. The clutch makes a hum noise when I hold the pedal down to disengage from the flywheel. The car will not shift gears when driving down the road at normal RPM. It's either stay in first gear or rack the transmission every time I try to shift to 2nd. I am guessing the clutch is not releasing all the way, not allowing me to move the lever from 1st to 2nd. No matter how gentle and smooth I was, it would not go into 2nd heading down the road and would rack every single time. Shifting into second at a stop and then applying throttle with clutch release and the car started to go backward in reverse!!! Perhaps a linkage issue? I would probably be better off to just remove the transmission and have it re-built by a good friend in Nashville. This would eliminate future service work. I plan to drive this car a lot so it may be the best option to save time down the road! Jon Ketron 1936 Ford V8 Tudor Touring Sedan This message was edited by Ketronj281989 on 10-22-20 @ 2:50 PM kubes40 10-22-2020 @ 3:02 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 3370 Joined: Oct 2009 It is in my opinion, it's much easier to pull the torque tube / differential back a few inches and pull the transmission out through the floor. I'd done this very same task last summer. At that time I'd replaced the rear transmission mount. When you replace the clutch disc, you MUST replace the throwout bearing and pressure plate at the same time. Do not attempt to save a few bucks. If you do, rest assured, it'll come back and bite ya. Do you have the authentic floor shift transmission? If so, your issue is not linkage. Hey, as long as you'll have the transmission out and you have a friend that knows what he's doing... go through the transmission at that time. A new synchronizer assembly is a must as long as its (trans.) apart. And of course, whatever else is worn including the clutch release shaft and respective bushings. Check all of the pivot points of the clutch arm and associate linkage. A little wear in any of those areas effects the clutch release operation exponentially. I'd also replaced the universal joint. It was worn only a little but figured that was the "proper" time to do so. The photo I've attached is from my '36 roadster I'd done this work to. The torque tube needs to be pulled back only even with the floor pan edge - maybe 6" or so. Mike "Kube" Kubarth This message was edited by kubes40 on 10-22-20 @ 3:05 PM TomO 10-23-2020 @ 7:03 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 7243 Joined: Oct 2009 When I plan on replacing the clutch disc and rebuilding the pressure plate, I like to pull the engine. I do this because if I need to have the flywheel refaced, the pan has to come off and that is easier to do with the engine out of the car. Tom nelsb01 10-23-2020 @ 9:52 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 975 Joined: Oct 2009 Remember no matter which you take out first, that the other part needs to be supported. So, if the rear end is slid back to remove the transmission first, you need to support the rear of the engine. If the engine comes out first, you need to support the front of the transmission. A 2x4 and a bottle jack work best for this, but a 2x4 and a floor jack also work. Ketronj281989 10-23-2020 @ 3:29 PM reply profile send p.m. New Member Posts: 143 Joined: Jul 2020 Mike, Appreciate the response. To my knowledge, my car still retains it's numbers matching transmission housing which matches the frame number. Yes, I do have the authentic top loader floor transmission. I will likely ask my Nashville friend to perform a full rebuild if he is ok with this. I would rather spend the money and do it right than cut corners. I don't think my OCD could deal with cutting corners! I will be sure to replace the clutch disc, throw-out bearing, and pressure plate all together. Thanks for this info, my first time with an transmission! Jon Ketron 1936 Ford V8 Tudor Touring Sedan Ketronj281989 10-23-2020 @ 3:32 PM reply profile send p.m. New Member Posts: 143 Joined: Jul 2020 Tom, Thanks for your response. I think I will pull the engine as I have more front end work to perform than rear for the time being. That said I will eventually have to get into the running gear. Do you have a procedure for taking out the engine/transmission at the front of the car. Thanks, Jon Ketron 1936 Ford V8 Tudor Touring Sedan Ketronj281989 10-23-2020 @ 3:33 PM reply profile send p.m. New Member Posts: 143 Joined: Jul 2020 nelsb01, Greatly appreciate the info! I will remember this once I dig in. Thanks, Jon Ketron 1936 Ford V8 Tudor Touring Sedan 39 Ken 10-24-2020 @ 4:38 AM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 380 Joined: Oct 2009 Jon, If your friend in Nashville can't help you out with your transmission, I suggest you call Mac Van Pelt and arrange for him to re-do your transmission. Mac is one of the best in the business and he is relatively close to you. Mac Van Pelt 40007 State Route 14, Columbiana, OH 44408 (330) 482-0700 Also, I suggest that you do not replace your clutch and pressure plate. Most new one's today are made in China and are of dubious quality. I send mine to Fort Wayne clutch and have them rebuild the original parts to Ford standard. Fort Wayne Clutch fortwayneclutch.com 2424 Goshen Rd, Fort Wayne, IN 46808 (260) 484-8505 Ken This message was edited by 39 Ken on 10-24-20 @ 4:38 AM TomO 10-24-2020 @ 8:19 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 7243 Joined: Oct 2009 Jon, I don't have a procedure to remove the engine and transmission from a 1936 Ford, but from what I remember it is a fairly straight forward job after removing the hood and radiator. Tom Ketronj281989 10-25-2020 @ 4:54 PM reply profile send p.m. New Member Posts: 143 Joined: Jul 2020 Ken, Really appreciate your advice on the subject. Yes, want to stay away from the "made in China" as much as possible. I may inquire to Van Pelt (I have been reading a great transmission book by him, later years trans. though!) and have added Fort Wayne Clutch to my list of viable service shops to look into. Thanks for the tips and guidance Jon Ketron 1936 Ford V8 Standard Tudor Touring Sedan

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