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EFV-8 Club Forum / General Ford Discussion / In-line fuel filter?

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ibshane
12-29-2017 @ 5:27 PM
New Member
Posts: 147
Joined: Oct 2017
          
I am considering using this inline filter.., mainly because the inlet & outlet are both threaded 1/2"-20 UNF for a good positive seal. It also has a vapor diverter outlet that I will plug. But if sometime down the road I ever start getting vapor lock., I will have the option to use the vapor diverter and run a return line back to the gas tank.

This message was edited by ibshane on 12-29-17 @ 5:30 PM

ken ct.
12-29-2017 @ 9:21 PM
Senior
Posts: 1513
Joined: Jan 2010
          
The 1/2x20 threads do NOT seal against leakage. The fitting that goes into the carb or fuel pump must have a coller on the line ahead of the fitting or you use a barbed fitting with a tapered nose on it This is how they seal NOT by the threads. I also see 5+ ' on the gauge as another poster said. way too much. ken ct. .048 jets would be about right for 6'000 elevation. Also 5.5 PV are best. Never cut the spring on them. If you are running a glass bowl pump a paper filter can be added to the bowl no need for a inline one. I have kits to do this.

This message was edited by ken ct. on 12-29-17 @ 9:26 PM

ibshane
12-29-2017 @ 11:12 PM
New Member
Posts: 147
Joined: Oct 2017
          
Ken CT,
You lost me at:

"I also see 5+ ' on the gauge as another poster said. way too much. ken ct. .048 jets would be about right for 6'000 elevation. Also 5.5 PV are best. Never cut the spring on them. If you are running a glass bowl pump a paper filter can be added to the bowl no need for a inline one. I have kits to do this."

TomO
12-30-2017 @ 9:28 AM
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Posts: 7244
Joined: Oct 2009
          
Ibshane, did you ever hear about the old saying "If it ain't broke, don't fix it"?

You car does not have fuel injectors with small orifices that are easily plugged, it does not have a fuel injection pump that can be ruined by the dirt in the fuel and the fuel pump and carburetor will easily tolerate any debris that gets past the fuel filter on the gas pump. Until the 1980s, very few cars had fuel filters and ran well. When fuel injection started appearing on cars, the gas stations added fuel filters to their pumps and manufacturers added them to the cars.

My 40 does not have a fuel filter, I took it off because it caused more problems than I had without it. Since removing it and replacing the line from the tank to the firewall, I have not had vapor lock problems or hard starting problems. The glass sediment bowl on my fuel pump did catch some debris when my tank lining failed and again when I bought gas at an off brand station, but neither of them caused a problem with my car.

If you intend to keep gas in your tank for more than 1 month, you should add a fuel stabilizer as current fuel is not as stabil as the older fuel. You can add some MMO to the tank every few tankfuls, to help with upper cylinder lubrication. The Ethanol in current fuel does not lobricate the intake valves as well as the fuel used when the car was a current model.

Tom

ibshane
12-30-2017 @ 1:28 PM
New Member
Posts: 147
Joined: Oct 2017
          
Tom O,
All good points well taken!
I only use pure gasoline in my "37 so thankfully Ethanol is not an issue for me. I have a gas station near by that has Ethanol free gas 24/7-365 in both 87 & 92 octane (I use 87)
My '37 fuel pump does not have a sediment bowl so I have no visual of the gas itself or any sediments that might be present.
If/when in the future I replace the fuel pump can I..., should I replace it with a pump w/sediment bowl?
Thank you for your help!

ken ct.
12-30-2017 @ 2:37 PM
Senior
Posts: 1513
Joined: Jan 2010
          
Yes that would be the way to go with a glass bowl pump, would not be correct for 37 but would solve your problems. I think I have 1 left in stock @ $50 plus $10 shipping. I am retired from rebuilding them but think I have 1 in stock. All USA made parts. Not like the cheap junk coming in from China as new pumps. ken ct.

TomO
12-31-2017 @ 9:04 AM
Senior
Posts: 7244
Joined: Oct 2009
          
If you want your car point judged, get the correct 1936-1940 fuel pump. If your car is going to be shown in Touring class, either the current pump or one with a glass bowl would work. In either case, I would replace the line coming into the fuel pump with the correct line.

Your pump has a sediment bowl, just remove the top cover to see the contents. Before you do this, order a couple of gaskets from Ken CT.

Tom

ken ct.
12-31-2017 @ 11:34 AM
Senior
Posts: 1513
Joined: Jan 2010
          
That is not a correct pump for a 37 in the firstplace.Thats 41-46 pump. Another thing the gas line fittings look like their bottomed out against the body and will not seal,also get rid of what I think looks like Teflon tape on one of the connections,never use it on gasoline fittings. ken ct. email or cell 1-203-260-9780 // I can explain better on phone.

trjford8
01-01-2018 @ 4:50 PM
Senior
Posts: 4203
Joined: Oct 2009
          
A big no on Teflon tape or silicone sealer.

ibshane
01-02-2018 @ 4:41 PM
New Member
Posts: 147
Joined: Oct 2017
          
This is how it was when I bought the rig back in 10/17. I am in the process of eliminating the "Gerry Rigged" stuff as I find it. I recently ordered a OEM flex line from firewall to pump and OEM hard line from pump to carb. Hopefully whoever put that bottomed out fitting in the pump didn't damage the threads or the seat in the pump!
Thanks for the help!!

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