LOGIN
  • Post to the EFV-8 Forum
  • Post Classified Ads
  • Shop the Online Store
User Login

Not Registered Yet? Click Here to Sign Up!



(Forgot your Password?)
Remember me on this computer

Not registered yet?
REGISTER NOW!

Back to Home Page Show Forum Rules

Early Ford V-8 Club Forum

FORUM RULES: Users agree to these Rules when using Forum.

The site administrator reserves the right to change the terms and conditions of the user agreement without prior notice to the user. It is the responsibility of the user to regularly review the terms of this agreement.

The user agrees to the following terms:

  1. All information that you provide to us for your membership is correct.
  2. You will not use your membership to spam, harrass, or exploit other members in any way.
  3. Vulgar, Abusive, Racist and Sexist Language will not be tolerated.
  4. Commercial-type sales postings will not be allowed.
  5. No mass posting or flooding of the boards is allowed.
  6. No Advertising of parts or cars; no Ebay or business/commercial ads (please use the "Classified" for ads Wanted or For Sale).
  7. VIEWING MULTIPLE TOPICS ON SCREEN: You can choose to see more than 10 Topics at a time ... Log In and choose "Preferences" from the top bar on the Forum page. Scroll down and Change the "Default Topics Returned" parameter to 25 or 50, and save the changes. Since this setting is stored in your browser 'cookies' (if enabled), it seems to use that stored value even if you are not logged in. So, if you use a PC that you haven't logged into the forum from, the setting still seem to remain at the default.
  8. EXTERNAL PHOTO LINKS ON FORUM: You can still use external photo links in your posts on the new forum. They follow the rules of any link in that they have to have the URL link qualified down to the full image file name (example: .jpg). The links will open in a new browser window, the same as an uploaded image attached to a post. Since an image attachment to any post does not display inline with the post, the results are the same. You can use multiple external links within a post. This link is from photos on a site from Don Clink's 'Deuce@75' albums:

    http://donclink.com/deuce_75_1/images/dscn2950.jpg

    Using links from photo sites such as Photobucket can help in "size" issue with uploaded attachment files. For best viewing in web browsers, photos should be around the 800x600 pixel range, and probably not more than 1024x768. Most cameras today store HUGE jpg image files, as the default settings are in the 7, 8, 10, and 12Mb image sizes. The image files that are then attached are very large, and the browser can't display the full image size without using the scroll bars. Use the re-sizing functions of your photo editing software to reduce the image to 800x600, which reduces the file sixe and the image load time in the browser. Don uses Google's free Picassa3 software, which is an excellent photo management product. All of the photo albums of the Deuce, Grand National, and Auburn that are links on the NORG site were built using Picassa's web creation functions. And it's free? (THANKS to Don Clink for the info!)
  9. HOW DO I SHOW MY EMAIL ADDRESS ALONG WITH MY USERNAME? You can LogIn on the Forum, and select PREFERENCES. On this page Members can add optional information such as their City,State, Country; Occupation; Hobbies: list a Homepage; list AOL Instant Messanger Handle; Signature; "Make Email Address viewable to others;" and even change the number of Default Topics shown on a page. WHEN others click on your profile, they will see this information.

EFV-8 Club Forum / General Ford Discussion / CORRECT TRANS AND REAR LUBE.

   Reply to this DiscussionReply to Discussion | Start new discussionNew Discussion << previous || next >> 
Posted By Discussion Topic: CORRECT TRANS AND REAR LUBE. -- page: 1 2 3 4

Printer-friendly Version  send this discussion to a friend  new posts last

DEUCEMAN
04-17-2010 @ 6:54 AM
Member
Posts: 17
Joined: Jan 2010
          
Please can anyone tell me the correct lube to use in a '39 trans with lincoln 25 tooth gears and in the rear, a '39 banjo with 4:11 gears. Some say 140 wt, GL4, others say the old Ford 600 wt and some say synthetic and others say no. In the trans if you use synoil the trans will leak and jump out of gear as the lube is too thin.
Please may I have some suggestions. Everything is rebuilt, lass than 1000 miles and I'm currently using Ford 600 wt lube as that's what the rebuilder recommended, saying "that's what Ford recommended", just change it frequently.
Thanks Guys....

supereal
04-17-2010 @ 7:51 AM
Senior
Posts: 6819
Joined: Oct 2009
          
Duece: Don't use 600W "oil" in anything. It is a thin asphaltic compound originally designed for use in the Model A's, which had transmissions that wouldn't hold conventional oil. It is obsolete, and will damage your gear boxes. We use 140W in our cars and trucks gearboxes. It tends not to leak if the level is kept below the filler hole. You should just be able to find the oil by crooking a finder into the filler. If you can't find 140, the usual 80-90 is fine. These modern lubes contain additives for "high pressure" use, ideal for most gearboxes. As for "what Ford recommended", most, if not all, lubes in the manuals have long since become obsolete. Modern oils are light years ahead of those. The exception is synthetic oil, which while a fine lube, does get dirty as quickly in old engines, and requires as frequent changes as conventional oil. It also has the added disadvantage of being hard to contain with old style lip and rope seals. You can do a whole lot of oil changes for the price of synthetics, as well.

37RAGTOPMAN
04-17-2010 @ 8:15 AM
Senior
Posts: 1992
Joined: Oct 2009
          
you can try farm TRACTOR DEALERS for heavier oils, as well as large tractor trailer dealers as well,
they may have a better selection,
also I put 140 MOBIL 1 in my 37 FORD Rear End 5 years ago , have no problems,
I rebuilt the rear, with new bearing and gears and a 354 high speed rear ratio,

The new 600 w rear and trans the parts vendors is not the same oil it was 60 years ago,
I agree with superreal on the old oil,but have not seen that for sale in years, not unless it is old stock,
I have using 600W in my 37 trans since 1978.also shifts good,
my 3 cents worth 37 RAGTOPMAN
just have to heat it up a little to install,
LIKE they say ask 10 people a question, get 10 different answers,!!


supereal
04-17-2010 @ 3:30 PM
Senior
Posts: 6819
Joined: Oct 2009
          
Be glad you don't have brass synchronizers in your transmission. 600W is abrasive and eats soft metals.

37RAGTOPMAN
04-18-2010 @ 12:47 PM
Senior
Posts: 1992
Joined: Oct 2009
          
FORD put 600 w in the back of The Model T FORD,in the rear end they have big soft babbit washers for end play in the ring gear,
and it was installed in MILLIONS of the THEM ????
and FORD used this grease up to 1948.
I have never seen any destroyed rear ends, like super is saying, and HUNDERDS OF ANTIQUE PARTS VENDORS SELL IT,,!!!
can't tell how many rears I dissembled and saw good gears,
I do now use MOBIL 1 GEAR OIL NOW,in my high speed rear,and have had no problems,MOBIL 1 OIL makes it run cooler, its a Proven Fact, LESS FRICTION,

this is only my 3 cents worth, 37RAGTOPMAN

supereal
04-19-2010 @ 10:05 AM
Senior
Posts: 6819
Joined: Oct 2009
          
I was referring to the brass transmission parts, and those in Columbia axles. I worked for many years at a Ford dealership in the 40's and 50's, and 600W oil was not used in any vehicles. I know that those vendors selling Model A & T parts do sell 600W, as well as non-detergent motor oil. Just because it is available doesn't make it correct. Most "original" lubes, such as "soda soap" grease, are long gone. The high pressure additives in modern gear lube, like detergents in oil, are a huge benefit in old vehicles.

51f1
04-19-2010 @ 1:15 PM
Senior
Posts: 573
Joined: Oct 2009
          
Why not use 70W-140 synthetic in the rear end and transmissions?

Richard

39 Ken
04-19-2010 @ 3:16 PM
Member
Posts: 382
Joined: Oct 2009
          
The gears in these old Ford applications are designed with wider tolerances than newer designs used in today's cars. Therefore, the older type of gear oil such as 90 wt. or 140 wt. is the most appropriate. Synthetic is too thin in it's composition to protect our gears because of the wider tolerances.

37RAGTOPMAN
04-19-2010 @ 4:23 PM
Senior
Posts: 1992
Joined: Oct 2009
          
51F1
I use in my rear in my 37 but use 250 in the trans,
I used to sell OILZUM oils and they made a 250 ,
I think the syn oil in the trans is ok, but most likley to thin, just make sure you use the heaviest oil you can find and like suer said put in a good additive, gears require a hypoid oil
I THINK if you bought some of the 600 replacment oil and added a GOOD GEAR ADDITIVE you would be covered.
I used to have a old 60'S BENZ DIESEL and they reguired you to use AUTOMATIC ATF OIL in the STANDARD TRANSMISSION,but they had good seals to keep the oil in,
some people use STP in the trans, this is a bad idea not unless you add a hypoid additive to help the lube
I think STP would break down with long time use,
my 3 cents worth,37RAGTOPMAN

supereal
04-20-2010 @ 9:01 AM
Senior
Posts: 6819
Joined: Oct 2009
          
As Ken points out, synthetics can be a problem when used in parts with wide tolerances. The quality that reduces surface tension to spread lubrication in close tolerances, can cause lack of lubrication in some places in our old cars. When I installed the overdrive in my '47, the driveshaft was made with a bronze center bearing. I greased it well with a synthetic, only to have the bearing howl and overheat during the first 50 miles. After replacing the lube with common JT-6, the problem disappeared for good. We also tried synthetic grease in the rear hubs, only to find gray grease and damaged axle housing surfaces when we checked them after a couple of hundred miles. Beware of a "one size fits all" lube for old cars and trucks.

<< previous || next >> 
PAGE: 1 2 3 4


NOTE: YOU MUST BE A REGISTERED USER AND BE LOGGED IN TO POST (and reply to) messages in this forum. If you are a first time user, please click the CREATE A NEW ACCOUNT in the masthead above to register and Log In. After that, all you do is LOG IN to enjoy using this site.

DISCLAIMER: The V-8 Club does no independent testing of any of the opinions, thoughts or suggestions presented in the website on the Forum, in the Tech Tips section, or any section. A reader should consider the website to be a forum wherein differing solutions to a particular set of circumstances may be discussed. Ultimately, the selection of an item for an individual's vehicle must be based upon the independent study of the vehicle owner in consultation with people in the hobby and restoration experts.


EFV-8 Club Forum Home | Back to Home Page | Contact the Webmaster

Copyright © 2009 - EFV-8.org
Powered by < CF FORUM > v.2.1