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EFV-8 Club Forum / General Ford Discussion / CORRECT TRANS AND REAR LUBE.

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Discussion Topic: CORRECT TRANS AND REAR LUBE. -- page: 1 2 3 4

therunwaybehind

04-18-2020 @ 11:36 AM

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Transmissions "jump out of gear" because the shifter forks are worn and the grooves where the shifter forks run just before the gear ends are mutually worn. Has nothing to do with the gear oil.

hickok

04-18-2020 @ 7:22 AM

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Hello All,
Old Thread Here I know...
But I need to refill my fan assembly on my 47 Mercury with Hypoid gear oil. My local auto parts shrugs their shoulders... I do not want to assume 140 non synthetic.... What say you all???

Thanks, ocHcikok

sunflower

04-03-2011 @ 6:50 AM

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Hi, I been useing straight 140 wt. mineral oil is that ok to use in my 35Ford.Thanks again .s

supereal

04-02-2011 @ 10:42 AM

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That would be fine. Sta-Lube makes excellent grease and oil. Most, if not all, gear lube today containes "high pressure" additives. There is nothing wrong with synthetic lubes, but old vehicles have wide clearances that require heavier consistancy. We tried synthetic grease in rear hubs, and it accelerated the erosion of the axle housing. Not everything new is automatically better.

parrish

04-02-2011 @ 9:31 AM

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Is this the good stuff for 39 trans and rear?

f1ford48

08-22-2010 @ 10:20 PM

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for what its worth. my service data handbook for 1941-published by Ford Motor Company sez 80-90 gear oil in winter and 140 in summer.
I also heard an old Mechanic once say they put that stink in gear oil so you can tell by the leaks under your car where the ''trouble'' is [by taking a whiff of the oil spot that is]

Hardie

06-04-2010 @ 6:43 PM

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Just a couple of cents worth: 600W is called "cylinder oil" and was originally designed to lubricate steam cylinders on locomotives and other steam powered machinery. It's impregnated with beef tallow which gives it significant "string" and coating properties as you've probably seen if you play with it. I contacted Mobil years ago about the product and once I convinced the engineer I spoke to that Mobil actually made the product he was able to confirm that it is a proper lubricant for the open tolerances found in our old vehicles. I use it with excellent results in my "T's" and my '35 and "48 V8's. [It] shouldn't be used in overdrives, worm-drives or in the "T's" Ruxtel axles.That may be more space than is allowed for a couple of cents.

49inthefastlane

05-13-2010 @ 7:47 PM

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Call your local Amsoil dealer or go to their website. Older transmissions have brass components and modern lubricants will "etch" the copper content out of the brass. Amsoil makes a 90wt that leaves the copper alone.

cresty

05-03-2010 @ 4:30 PM

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CROOKING A FINDER INTO THE FILLER HUMMM?!??!

supereal

04-26-2010 @ 7:30 AM

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Usually, leakage from the transmission will overflow down the torque tube to the rear end, so you may find it overfull when checked. The advice to fill only until you can reach the oil with a crooked finger is to minimize leakage. You will nearly always find the transmission level low, anyway. As to the smell, some gear lubes reek like dead fish, particularly very old ones. Years ago, I split the halves of a Ford tractor near my barn to install a new clutch, and the oil stunk so bad that I believe I can still smell it years after! Any good brand of gear oil should only smell like motor oil. We don't use synthetic oil in any old vehicle, but all of our new cars and trucks specify it now. It is hard to keep synthetic anything in place because it tends to slip by any old type seals.

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