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EFV-8 Club Forum / Light Commercial Truck Discussion / 239 c.i.d. missing on 2 cyls.

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Discussion Topic: 239 c.i.d. missing on 2 cyls. -- page: 1 2 3 4

Reds34

06-02-2010 @ 7:08 PM

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I actually did switch carburetors and got the same problem, nothing had changed. I'm really at a loss on what to do. Thanks for your help.

Red

supereal

06-03-2010 @ 8:36 AM

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Red: The fact that all the cylinders on one side are the problem has to be related. If the switch of carbs didn't change it, I'd pull the intake manifold and see what is happening on that side. You may find a mouse or bug nest, etc, blocking that side. I've seen that more than once. The intake manifold is the common link, as is the exhaust manifold, which could also be involved for the same reason. If the exhaust is plugged, the intake can't function.

TomO

06-03-2010 @ 10:19 AM

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Red, Remove the coil and look at the relationship of the rotor contacts to the inner distributor caps. It is possible someone installed a 37-41 rotor in your distributor. The rotor will fit, but the contacts will not line up.

Tom

Reds34

06-03-2010 @ 2:15 PM

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Superreal- it's not one side of the engine that is skipping. The cylinders that skip are the outside cylinders on the drivers side and the two inside cylinders on the passenger side.
Tom O- I remember looking at the distributor and seeing that the rotor contacts were lined up with the contacts on the caps.

The truck used to run fine a year ago, but one day I was driving it going up a hill and it just started skipping. It was lugging a little bit so I don't know if that has to do with it skipping. Thank all you guys for your help, I really appreciate it.

Red

supereal

06-03-2010 @ 3:58 PM

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Actually, I was referring to one side of the intake manifold, rather than the engine. Did you ever confirm that only cylinders 1-4-6-7 are all affected? Or are others missing, as well. The fact that it ran well a year ago says, obviously, something changed. Two years ago, when I took my '47 out of storage, it began missing, bucking, and stalling. I noted that it smoothed out when I turned on my electric booster pump, so I assumed the mechanical pump was dying. Replacement didn't fix it. Neither did a new flexible line at the firewall. All filters were cleaned or changed, and the tank was new. After all of that, the only thing left was the gas line from the tank to the firewall, but I couldn't recall ever having to replace a line. Well, $18 for a new line and an hour's work fixed it all! The car runs better than it has in the 15 years I've owned it. The old line was filled with dirt and rust, and delivered only enough fuel to run the engine if power demand was very low. And all because I was "sure" the line was OK.

Reds34

06-03-2010 @ 7:20 PM

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At first I used a timing light first and that said they were all working fine. Then I used a screwdriver to short out the spark plugs to find out which cylinders weren't firing. Thanks for your help.

Red

TomO

06-04-2010 @ 8:02 AM

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Red, You have been replacing parts in the hope that you could fix it. It may be time to start over and diagnose the problem further before replacing any more parts. Sometimes the new parts will be defective also.

Try this:
Hook a vacuum gauge up to the windshield wiper port and try to adjust the carburetor for the highest steady reading. Make sure that both idle mixture screws adjustments affect the idle. If the engine is running too rough to determine when the highest reading is attained, turn the screws in until the engine almost stalls and then back off 1/2 turn and leave the screws in that position.

Check the spark at each cylinder by holding the plug wire close to a head nut. Check for a nice blue spark at least 1/4" long at each plug. If you have a coil rebuilt by Skip, your spark should be 1/2". The spark should make a cracking sound.

Short out the plugs one at a time, while observing the gauge. Record which cylinders have the most effect on the reading.

Examine all of the spark plugs for good color and no carbon build up, paying special attention to the plugs from the cylinders that had little effect on the vacuum gauge.

Perform a compression check on all cylinders and record the readings.

Come back here with the results of your tests so we can try to diagnose the problem further.

Tom

Reds34

06-04-2010 @ 2:32 PM

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TomO- You said to make sure that both idle mixture screws affect the idle. I can take the passenger? side out completely and nothing changes. I put a vacuum gauge on and I got about 9 inches at 600 rpm, although I didn't mess with idle screws when I had the gauge on it. Who is Skip? I have heard his name mentioned before and I'm just curious what all he does. I was looking at getting a rebuilt coil, but they are a little high priced, so for now I'm running with a conventional coil. For removing the spark plug wires use insulated pliers to do so? I have gotten zapped by it recently and it hurt for the rest of the day.I will try to do the compression test this weekend. Thank you for your help and putting up with all my questions.

Red

TomO

06-05-2010 @ 7:45 AM

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Red, you have found the source of your problem. Either your carburetor or intake manifold is blocked on the passenger side.

Remove the passenger side idle screw and squirt carburetor cleaner in the hole for about 15 seconds, then replace the screw. Seat the screw lightly and then back out 1 turn. Start the car and see if it runs OK.

If the car still only runs on 4 cylinders, remove the carburetor and check for blockage in the jets on the passenger side by removing the bowl drain plugs and squirting carburetor cleaner into the main jets.

If the jets are not blocked, you blockage is in the intake manifold. You will have to remove the intake manifold and using compressed air blow through an intake port for cylinder 5 (front port on the drivers side) after plugging all of the other ports. This may dislodge the obstruction. If it doesn't try forcing water through the port.

Skip is a vendor that rebuilds coils and water pumps. He is located in FL.

You can purchase plastic pliers at electronic stores or at some auto supply stores. They sell them as fuse pullers. These allow you to pull a plug wire without getting zapped.

Tom

supereal

06-05-2010 @ 10:20 AM

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If it is the two end cylinders on the driver's side, and the middle two cylinders on the passenger side that are dead, it is the passenger side of the carb that feeds them. There is no physical connection between the right and left sides of the intake manifold. That is why taking out the passenger side idle needle doesn't have an effect. No fuel or vacuum on that side is the reason. Both TomO and I have been saying this almost since this thread began.

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