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Discussion Topic:
car is running rough
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o2bnkc |
04-14-2021 @ 6:00 PM
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Member
Posts: 48
Joined: Mar 2021
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The coil had a Dennis Carpenter sticker on the box but I purchased it from C&G Ford Parts. I'm still not sure how you are saying to mount the condenser. At one end of the condenser there is a screw hole. Is that the end that should be mounted to the tab at the bottom of the coil with a screw? The silver tab then should be mounted through one of the bolts that holds the coil on the distributor? Now the carb. There was always a strong smell of gas when the car was running or off. There was a little gas leaking from the gasket when I first brought it home, so I tightened the five screws down (upper part), but the gasket was bad. The rubber vacuum line to the tube in the back of the engine was not very tight either. I put a hose clamp around that. Several of the small gaskets inside the carb were missing. I put the rebuild kit in it and then decided to order some smaller jets(.045's), power valve(5.5), and some more carb parts after talking to Charlie Price at Vintage Speed. That's where it stands now. I'm waiting for the carb parts and trying to figure out how the condenser fits on the coil. Thanks to everyone so far for their advice. I am trying everything. Oh, about the gas cap. All I know is that it has the Ford script on it and it is a locking cap. A Proud Navy Vet
This message was edited by o2bnkc on 4-14-21 @ 6:23 PM
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cliftford |
04-13-2021 @ 7:27 AM
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Senior
Posts: 845
Joined: Jan 2014
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Just in case I missed it, is your gas cap vented? or could it be vented and the hole is plugged?
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TomO |
04-13-2021 @ 7:01 AM
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Senior
Posts: 7243
Joined: Oct 2009
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The condenser is mounted on the little tab on the coil and the grounding connection is the bolt for the distributor. Unfortunately I do not have a photo right now. When I install a power valve, I use the gasket with the triangular cutout. I just hand tighten it and then put some gas in the bowl so that it just reaches the top of the power valve and let it sit over night. If it leaks down at night, I tighten the valve one sixth of a turn and repeat the test. If you have to make more than 3 tries, you should give up and send the carburetor to Charley Schwendler in NY to have it machined and rebuilt Here is his Email: cas5845@yahoo.com Again, I would like to caution you about replacing parts without diagnosing the problem. I would go ahead and install the correct coil if you bought it from Skip or it was rebuilt by Skip. I do not have any faith in the reproduction coils as I have tested too many that would fail when the heat test was used.
Tom
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o2bnkc |
04-12-2021 @ 3:39 PM
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Member
Posts: 48
Joined: Mar 2021
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I am still working on the problem. I rebuilt the carb but I am waiting for my smaller jets and power valve. Another dumb question, though. I received my original style coil, but am a little confused on how the condenser is mounted. I can't find any pics. Is it mounted on that tab on the bottom? I see that it will screw into the terminal on top, also. Again, this is my first flathead, so be gentle.
A Proud Navy Vet
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TomO |
04-10-2021 @ 7:53 PM
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Senior
Posts: 7243
Joined: Oct 2009
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Have you checked your spark when the engine is at operating temperature? Did you do the fuel delivery test? If you did please post the results.
Tom
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RAK402 |
04-09-2021 @ 12:48 PM
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Posts: 430
Joined: Jul 2015
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I am watching this thread every day. I am really curious as to what the cause is and how the issue is corrected!
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40 Coupe |
04-09-2021 @ 4:51 AM
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Senior
Posts: 1648
Joined: Oct 2009
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You seem to want the car repaired before switching out to the new coil and condenser. I would try the easiest thing first and replace your existing condenser with a NAPA FA54 which is for the 46-48 Ford and appears my fit your needs. Then try it again to see if the thermal problem is gone. Other wise change to the new coil and condenser. Make sure the Ford ignition resistor of 0.5 Ohm is connected all the wiring is connected properly and with clean connections.
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carcrazy |
04-08-2021 @ 10:36 PM
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Senior
Posts: 1587
Joined: Oct 2009
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You are correct. If you run the original Ford coil, you need to have the resistor in the circuit feeding current to the coil.
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o2bnkc |
04-08-2021 @ 8:55 PM
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Member
Posts: 48
Joined: Mar 2021
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Again, there are no wires going up to the resistor on the firewall. There is 6 volts going to the coil when the switch is on. It is a remote coil riding on a bracket on top of the generator. It gets pretty hot. I just got an original style coil, but if I have to many volts going to it, I don't want to burn it up when I put it on the distributor. I guess I need to run the power through that resistor first.
A Proud Navy Vet
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37RAGTOPMAN |
04-08-2021 @ 1:08 PM
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Senior
Posts: 1941
Joined: Oct 2009
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check your coil and cond and the resister on the inside firewall, even the contacts on the back of ignition switch, to see if worn or corroded, any loose connections,? most of the time is where the trouble lies, have the distributer rebuilt with the coil at the same time, also you could look at I would try it without a fuel filter, just for testing, and see if that makes a difference, in the fuel pump on the engine, there should be a screen for a filter ,inside under the top cap, when you have the filter off. with the gas cap off., try blowing air though the fuel line from front to rear, a small air compressor or a tire pump. see if you hear bubbles, it might be over filtered, check the fuel line front to rear and see if there is any kinks, or more filters. also if when you are on the road, cross the terminals on the resister with a jumper wire with 2 clips and see if that makes a difference, if it does the coil is weak, I would suggest a good going over to correct the problem,. my 2 cents 37Ragtopman
This message was edited by 37RAGTOPMAN on 4-8-21 @ 4:50 PM
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