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EFV-8 Club Forum / 1940 Ford Discussion / car is running rough

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RAK402

06-13-2021 @ 1:45 PM

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I am very glad to hear that you got it sorted out and running well sir!

o2bnkc

06-12-2021 @ 10:37 PM

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After messing with the carb the last few weeks I threw in the towel and replaced it with a Dennis Carpenter carb. I put it on yesterday and the car is running great. It fired right up and hasn't missed a beat. I didn't have to make any adjustments to any of the screws. Amazing! No dead spots. No rough running after getting warmed up. No cutting out. No fouling of the plugs. I don't even know what size the jets are. I drove about 70 miles today and it was a pleasure. I don't know what is wrong with the original Holley, but the only thing I didn't replace was the throttle plates and linkage. Next thing to do is work on the vacuum leak to the power top.

A Proud Navy Vet

1931 Flamingo

06-11-2021 @ 10:36 AM

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I disagree. My flathead with 2 97's and hi-comp heads runs fine on the stock (rebuilt) pump. I only use the electric to prime if it's been sitting for a while.
Paul in CT

sarahcecelia

06-11-2021 @ 9:17 AM

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My 1940 did that coming home from a show( about 4 times), and i nursed it along, but finally the motor quit! Dummy me- the electric fuel pump was turned off! I turned it on, and it started and ran ran fine!! If you have one that's the problem; if they are not on ALL OF THE TIME, it will starve for fuel!

Regards, Steve Lee

RAK402

06-06-2021 @ 6:21 PM

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o2bnkc,

Did your rough running issue get resolved?

Natalkirlin

05-03-2021 @ 4:19 AM

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These engines are very legendary. From my point of view, these are the best engines that ford made. Regarding the fact that they are powerful, we must consider that this one lasts a lot of time.

40 Coupe

04-19-2021 @ 4:28 AM

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Should be a stream of fuel from the nozzle bars, not drips. Do you have a diagram for the carburetor, did you put in all the parts? There is a brass check valve needle that must be inserted under the nozzel bars and a ball bearing and clip under the accelerator pump. Where did you get your rebuilding kit? Daytona sells a good kit. There have been problems with the kits with the accelerator pump being short. If your distributor timing plate is set for one mark above the casting mark leave it alone.
The timing plate should be about one mark above center.

This message was edited by 40 Coupe on 4-21-21 @ 4:45 AM

RAK402

04-18-2021 @ 9:06 PM

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On the side of the distributor, you will find a slot head screw with a hexagonal head (the Advance Lock Screw), under it is a metal plate with lines scribed into it. You loosen the screw and move the plate with bolt up and down to change the timing. As I recall, there is a reference line on the distributor casting (to use with the scribed lines on the plate).

This is something I would not touch if you are not familiar with it.

Most people send their distributors in to get them timed on stroboscopes-some of the club members here do this. Some Antique Ford parts sellers perform it as a service or do it on an exchange basis.

At the very least, you will need a timing fixture to do it (these can be very hard to find).

Note that attaching and removing the coil can change both the dwell and the timing (due to the downward pressure of the spring on the bottom of the coil against the Breaker Plate).

KenCT and TomO. have posted about distributors and timing-you might try a search-they are both very knowledgeable.

This message was edited by RAK402 on 4-18-21 @ 10:50 PM

o2bnkc

04-18-2021 @ 12:19 PM

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How do I advance the timing on this distributor? I'm afraid to mess with it. I'm used to sbc and timing lights. I did get a couple of backfires through the carb yesterday. I am getting gas from the squirter cluster, but I don't know how "strong" it's supposed to be. I will also check the vacuum per RAK402's advice. Stand by for further results and thanks for the help.

A Proud Navy Vet

TomO

04-18-2021 @ 7:43 AM

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I would follow RAK402's advice. If that does not fix the problem, check for proper accelerator pump operation, by looking down the throat of the carburetor, with the ignition OFF and operating the accelerator linkage. You should see 2 strong streams of fuel coming from the accelerator jets.

Tom

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