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Posted By Discussion Topic: 1940 ford station wagon -- page: 1 2     BRL3240 02-21-2011 @ 1:49 PM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 15 Joined: Feb 2011 I have a 1940 station wagon, original car. Bought it in 2005. Sat in a garage from 1971 to 2005. The wood is very solid and no decay at all. The issue I have is what steps I should take on restoring the finish on the wood. I understand that these bodies and wood boats were finished in very similar ways, so I know I can also consult antique wood boat restorers. I don't want to just dive in and start sanding away because obviously I'd need to re-stain and have the correct color for that. I know this forum isn't the best place for a discussion on wood restoration, but I know there are many woody owners in the EFV8 club, so someone might have had the same problem I have. Brad Lowery trjford8 02-21-2011 @ 2:06 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 4353 Joined: Oct 2009 Brad, if yhou are a club member you might contact Mike Nickels in Michigan. He is the woody advisor for the club.He can be reached at; mikenickelswoodies@hughes.net. 42wagon 02-21-2011 @ 4:01 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 586 Joined: Oct 2009 Brad Welcome to the world of wood refinishing. I have heard it said that a station wagon is nothing more than a boat out of water and upside down. I have a 42 wagon that I just completed refinishing the wood. This required stripping the varnish, bleaching the weathered areas, and putting on four or five coats of a good UV protected marine spar varnish. No staining was necessary as Ford didn't stain the wood in the first place. That said I think you will find that the wood was natural and not stained. If the finish is weathered but the wood has not deteriorated you are in luck. What you will need to consider is what type of paint strippers will be needed to remove the varnish. Sanding to remove the varnish is a last resort as it will reduce the size of the members and you may sand through the the veneer on the the panels. The best book on the subject that I have found is Brightwork, The Art of Finishing Wood by Rebecca J. Wittman. Try Amazon or www.AbeBooks.com It's all about reinishing boats but there isn't much difference between a boat and a station wagon. Good luck an original station wagon is a rare treasure. Ted 37RAGTOPMAN 02-21-2011 @ 4:15 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 1992 Joined: Oct 2009 I think maybe you should do a little reserch on wood refinnishing, to start with, also becareful if you are if you use any varnish removers, and take your time, its not a job for beginners. try working with something that does not mean anything to you , try restoring a piece of wood, like a old chair, or table, hope this helps, 37 RAGTOPMAN Stroker 02-21-2011 @ 4:20 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 1460 Joined: Oct 2009 Brad: I'd also suggest a membership in the National Woodie Club, as their archives and forum are similar to ours, and are of course wood restoration specific. Having said that, if your wood is sound, the safest way is to remove the existing varnish after you have taken the doors and tailgate off, and unscr*w*d any removable panels. There are two methods" The "old fashioned way" is to carefully use a paint scr*per, being careful to not gouge or dig into the wood; followed by sanding with increasingly fine sandpaper to provide a "smooth-as-a-schoolmarms leg" (now I'm sure that's not PC, but it was dad's term)surface. Any "grey areas" can be carefully treated with 2-part wood bleach. The "modern way" is to use commercial strippers, but these can often discolor the wood, requiring more bleach use. There are several good sources for replacement wood parts, but old woodies should have a degree of "patina" that only original wood can provide. I'm sure our other woodie owners will chime in, as we have quite a few in our organization. "Alanwoodieman" has brought a totally defunct 40 back to show condition, and I have worked on 3-38 Ford woodies throughout the last 50+ years. Whatever you do, do not succumb to the temptation to use anything other than the finest marine spar varnish when you refinish. As you say, the wooden boats had the same maintenance issues, but sometimes their products end up a little on the "dark amber" side when applied to your maple sticks. Forties were available with birch/maple light-colored plywood panels or mahogany/gumwood dark panels. They were all manufactured at Iron Mountain. My last suggestion would be to purchase a copy of Loren Sorenson's wonderful book- "Famous Ford Woodies", as it contains much useful background/historical information for the Ford Woodie restorer. Please keep in touch, as we "Wood is Good" folk are unique. wrosenkrans 02-21-2011 @ 7:20 PM reply profile send p.m. New Member Posts: 134 Joined: Oct 2010 I'll second the recommendation to join the National Woodie Club. We have a 1931 Model A Station Wagon and the club has proven very useful. There's also a Model A special interest group for the wagons which I'm certain there is a V8 counterpart for. We're not facing a refinish job in the near future, but I'm gathering information for when that day comes. Wayne & Barb '42 Super De Luxe Tudor 37 Coupe 02-22-2011 @ 7:30 AM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 366 Joined: Oct 2009 You could follow the steps for repair and preservation as Ford provided in Form 3674. Probably would be the same process but mayby better Spar varnish available now. Stroker 02-22-2011 @ 3:44 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 1460 Joined: Oct 2009 Todays quality marine spar varnish's are undoubtedly superior in UV resistance amd longevity to the original factory product. In addition, most of us will apply 4-5 coats of very clear (un-tinted) varnish, with a wet sanding between coats. Annual refinishing is not something any Woodie owner wants to do, but then again, we don't let our cars sit outdoors 24-7 all year. The next to last item (3) on wood filler should be avoided, as it while it might have been a quick fix at the Ford dealership when the car was new enough to not have substantial value, it will create a future problem not unlike "bondo" to the next caretaker of your woodie. Some prefer brushing, some spraying. I've used both methods, and I actually prefer a quality boar-bristle dedicated varnish brush w/un-thinned varnish in a darkened room with a shop light in one had to avoid "holidays". I believe that varnish was not meant to be thinned, and that it loses some of its' gloss and durability when you thin it enough to spray. Others will disagree. Stroker 02-22-2011 @ 4:55 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 1460 Joined: Oct 2009 BRL3240: Attached is an article I find authoritative. 42wagon 02-23-2011 @ 3:44 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 586 Joined: Oct 2009 Stroker I would add several things to your advice. First, in so far as possible lay the parts to be varnished down flat. This will minimize the runs or sags that will occur even with unthinned varnish right out of the can. Two, get a supply of disposable paint cups and only pour out the amount of varnish you need for the part at hand. This keeps your varnish in the can from getting contaminated with dust particles, etc. Three, buy your varnish in quart cans to eliminate having your whole batch of varnish start to cure in the can. Four, The pros advocate using disposable foam brushes and I agree. Even the my best badger brush will loose bristles that I don't want to see in the surface of the varnish. So I've been using the foam brushes and they really work great. Ted

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