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EFV-8 Club Forum / General Ford Discussion / 1940 ford station wagon

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Posted By Discussion Topic: 1940 ford station wagon -- page: 1 2     Stroker 02-23-2011 @ 11:59 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 1460 Joined: Oct 2009 3240: In case you ever get discouraged, here's a "before" photo from one of our V8 & NWC members who has one of the nicest 40 wagons around. As you can see, you have a much better starting point. deuce_roadster 02-23-2011 @ 8:54 AM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 284 Joined: Oct 2009 You might like reading Rick Mack's info on varnish. He makes wood for 49-53 woodies but the varnish info is universal. Here is a link : http://www.rickmack.com/faq.htm I too have a 40 deluxe wagon that after many years am now to the varnish stage (I have replaced all the wood). I have chosen "captain's" Spar Varnish. These modern spar varnishes dry hard enough that you can wet sand and rub them out like urethane paint. The suggestion that you buy your varnish in quarts is a good one, it doesn't add much to the price. Being new to the old car and woodie scene you might not know that the body number for your car is under the voltage regulator stamped in the firewall. This will give you an idea where in the production line it was assembled. The late wonderful author Lorin Sorenson had the 40 wagon that had the last published body number which was 11 thousand something. It looks like your car has been repainted a blue color but you are a lucky guy to have a complete car. I searched for 25 years for a good tailgate handle and rear bumper. Good luck and you are wise to elicit opinions and help. Stroker 02-23-2011 @ 8:28 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 1460 Joined: Oct 2009 BRL: That's a wonderful example of a possible Rouge contender. Tell us more about the rest of the car. Has it been restored in the past? All original? etc. You are wise to learn all you can, take it slow, and take lots of photo's to document any disassembly. If the car is all original, think twice before doing a "frame off" total restoration. Wayne & "Albia" Barb: You'll know it needs attention when you notice the varnish becoming opaque in spots. Direct sunlight ultimately kills all varnish. When it starts to degrade, it turns milky, followed by cracking or blistering. Any cracks in the varnish will let in moisture, which will quickly darken the wood. Early sign of UV damage is simply a dulling of the surface. If you catch it at this point, a simple wet sand/re-application of another coat will extend it's life. I wouldn't use furniture polish or wax on the wood, as it complicates a re-coat. Others do, and perhaps I could learn from them. Done right, with todays materials, a varnish job should last 10-20 years or more on woodie that is not left outside, and only driven in decent weather. The old-time varnishes would gradually darken with age. Today's materials are very resistant to "yellowing". wrosenkrans 02-23-2011 @ 7:20 AM reply profile send p.m. New Member Posts: 134 Joined: Oct 2010 On an antique woodie today, garaged when not in use, driven modestly (pleasure drives, occasional parade or show) and rarely in the rain - when should you consider doing a refinish? Signs to watch for? or every X years? Wayne & Barb '42 Super De Luxe Tudor BRL3240 02-23-2011 @ 7:07 AM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 15 Joined: Feb 2011 another photo of the outside. BRL3240 02-23-2011 @ 7:04 AM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 15 Joined: Feb 2011 Thank you every one, I appreciate the great advice. I am a very young club member and do not want anything to go wrong with this wagon. I am only 24, so I get strange looks or questions when I tell people I like 71 year old cars. Here is a photo of the wagon, you can see the wood is very solid, so i think just a scr*pe and maybe a bit a bleach will bring her back. 42wagon 02-23-2011 @ 3:44 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 586 Joined: Oct 2009 Stroker I would add several things to your advice. First, in so far as possible lay the parts to be varnished down flat. This will minimize the runs or sags that will occur even with unthinned varnish right out of the can. Two, get a supply of disposable paint cups and only pour out the amount of varnish you need for the part at hand. This keeps your varnish in the can from getting contaminated with dust particles, etc. Three, buy your varnish in quart cans to eliminate having your whole batch of varnish start to cure in the can. Four, The pros advocate using disposable foam brushes and I agree. Even the my best badger brush will loose bristles that I don't want to see in the surface of the varnish. So I've been using the foam brushes and they really work great. Ted Stroker 02-22-2011 @ 4:55 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 1460 Joined: Oct 2009 BRL3240: Attached is an article I find authoritative. Stroker 02-22-2011 @ 3:44 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 1460 Joined: Oct 2009 Todays quality marine spar varnish's are undoubtedly superior in UV resistance amd longevity to the original factory product. In addition, most of us will apply 4-5 coats of very clear (un-tinted) varnish, with a wet sanding between coats. Annual refinishing is not something any Woodie owner wants to do, but then again, we don't let our cars sit outdoors 24-7 all year. The next to last item (3) on wood filler should be avoided, as it while it might have been a quick fix at the Ford dealership when the car was new enough to not have substantial value, it will create a future problem not unlike "bondo" to the next caretaker of your woodie. Some prefer brushing, some spraying. I've used both methods, and I actually prefer a quality boar-bristle dedicated varnish brush w/un-thinned varnish in a darkened room with a shop light in one had to avoid "holidays". I believe that varnish was not meant to be thinned, and that it loses some of its' gloss and durability when you thin it enough to spray. Others will disagree. 37 Coupe 02-22-2011 @ 7:30 AM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 366 Joined: Oct 2009 You could follow the steps for repair and preservation as Ford provided in Form 3674. Probably would be the same process but mayby better Spar varnish available now.

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