LOGIN
  • Post to the EFV-8 Forum
  • Post Classified Ads
  • Shop the Online Store
User Login

Not Registered Yet? Click Here to Sign Up!



(Forgot your Password?)
Remember me on this computer

Not registered yet?
REGISTER NOW!

Back to Home Page Show Forum Rules

Early Ford V-8 Club Forum

FORUM RULES: Users agree to these Rules when using Forum.

The site administrator reserves the right to change the terms and conditions of the user agreement without prior notice to the user. It is the responsibility of the user to regularly review the terms of this agreement.

The user agrees to the following terms:

  1. All information that you provide to us for your membership is correct.
  2. You will not use your membership to spam, harrass, or exploit other members in any way.
  3. Vulgar, Abusive, Racist and Sexist Language will not be tolerated.
  4. Commercial-type sales postings will not be allowed.
  5. No mass posting or flooding of the boards is allowed.
  6. No Advertising of parts or cars; no Ebay or business/commercial ads (please use the "Classified" for ads Wanted or For Sale).
  7. VIEWING MULTIPLE TOPICS ON SCREEN: You can choose to see more than 10 Topics at a time ... Log In and choose "Preferences" from the top bar on the Forum page. Scroll down and Change the "Default Topics Returned" parameter to 25 or 50, and save the changes. Since this setting is stored in your browser 'cookies' (if enabled), it seems to use that stored value even if you are not logged in. So, if you use a PC that you haven't logged into the forum from, the setting still seem to remain at the default.
  8. EXTERNAL PHOTO LINKS ON FORUM: You can still use external photo links in your posts on the new forum. They follow the rules of any link in that they have to have the URL link qualified down to the full image file name (example: .jpg). The links will open in a new browser window, the same as an uploaded image attached to a post. Since an image attachment to any post does not display inline with the post, the results are the same. You can use multiple external links within a post. This link is from photos on a site from Don Clink's 'Deuce@75' albums:

    http://donclink.com/deuce_75_1/images/dscn2950.jpg

    Using links from photo sites such as Photobucket can help in "size" issue with uploaded attachment files. For best viewing in web browsers, photos should be around the 800x600 pixel range, and probably not more than 1024x768. Most cameras today store HUGE jpg image files, as the default settings are in the 7, 8, 10, and 12Mb image sizes. The image files that are then attached are very large, and the browser can't display the full image size without using the scroll bars. Use the re-sizing functions of your photo editing software to reduce the image to 800x600, which reduces the file sixe and the image load time in the browser. Don uses Google's free Picassa3 software, which is an excellent photo management product. All of the photo albums of the Deuce, Grand National, and Auburn that are links on the NORG site were built using Picassa's web creation functions. And it's free? (THANKS to Don Clink for the info!)
  9. HOW DO I SHOW MY EMAIL ADDRESS ALONG WITH MY USERNAME? You can LogIn on the Forum, and select PREFERENCES. On this page Members can add optional information such as their City,State, Country; Occupation; Hobbies: list a Homepage; list AOL Instant Messanger Handle; Signature; "Make Email Address viewable to others;" and even change the number of Default Topics shown on a page. WHEN others click on your profile, they will see this information.

EFV-8 Club Forum / General Ford Discussion / Alternator

   Reply to this DiscussionReply to Discussion | Start new discussionNew Discussion << previous || next >> 
Posted By Discussion Topic: Alternator -- page: 1 2

Printer-friendly Version  send this discussion to a friend  new posts last

silverchief
07-15-2019 @ 10:37 AM
Senior
Posts: 510
Joined: Oct 2009
          
Previously mentioned reoccurring problem with my stock 46. After driving about a week sometimes the starter is to weak to turn the engine over even though the battery may show very low, or may show near full charge. Assumed my short slow trips to coffee were not allowing the generator to put enough charge back into the engine to overcome the power needed for repeated starts. I had the generator rebuilt about 3 years ago by a reputable shop. Putting a test light between a disconnected neg cable and that post shows no drain

At slow speed, my amp meter shows just above neutral. Sitting at idle, if I turn the lights on, the meter shows strong discharge, but increasing to fast idle brings it right back up to where it was. Same using the radio as a draw. However, my new expensive battery tester shows no charging whatsoever taking place.

Following instructions in thread of Tom O 7-5-17 I used a volt meter at the regulator to observe not running and fast idle output. In both instances both readings were slightly below what they should be.

I haven't tested the starter but don't really suspect it because when the battery is good it acts strong. I have another alternator which I believe is good and could switch them but thought I would ask for comments first.



37RAGTOPMAN
07-15-2019 @ 1:19 PM
Senior
Posts: 1939
Joined: Oct 2009
          
if your GENERATOR and regulator is working correctly, you should have no problems,
the REG should COMPENSATES for currant draw , like the lights and radio,when you turn them on and should maintain the battery at full charge,
if it does not there is a problem with the REG,
or generator is weak, it might be dirty from sitting,
if it is a 30 amp generator it should put out 30 amps, if needed
turn on all lights, radio ,etc,
at idle it should read discharge.
rev the engine it should read charge, if the generator is good and also the regulator.,
my question,
when you installed the generator and regulator, did YOU POLARIZE THEM ?
hope this helps 37RAGTOPMAN


51woodie
07-15-2019 @ 1:47 PM
Senior
Posts: 505
Joined: Jan 2017
          
silverchief I struggled with my stock '46 charging as well. As there are no experts in my area I cheated and installed a Powermaster 6V 60A + ground alternator that is a bolt on unit c/w pulley. I got mine from Bob Drake, but Summit has better pricing now. I ran a #6 wire from the alt output to the battery side of the starter solenoid and a ground wire to a manifold bolt. I taped up the original gen wires and tucked them under the alternator and left the regulator I place so things look original. I could have done a different connection on the charging wire so there is an indication on the ammeter, but I have had no problems after two summers of fairly regular driving. The light are bright at night and don't go dim at idle.
https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/pwm-82016/overview/

Drbrown
07-15-2019 @ 10:20 PM
Senior
Posts: 559
Joined: Nov 2013
          
My '47 came with a 1-wire Delco 10 - 50 amp alt. I improved it with 3-wire Delco 12 - 70 amp alternator wired thru the stock dash amp gauge and thru aftermarket voltage and amp gauges. The 3-wire allows the Alternator to charge all the time. After sitting it will charge at 14.5 volts and 20 anps. After driving it charges at about 3 to 4 amps. Head light brihtness is constant.

This message was edited by Drbrown on 7-15-19 @ 10:22 PM

TomO
07-16-2019 @ 7:18 AM
Senior
Posts: 7238
Joined: Oct 2009
          
Bill, it sounds like your charging system is most likely working as designed.

"At slow speed, my amp meter shows just above neutral. Sitting at idle, if I turn the lights on, the meter shows strong discharge, but increasing to fast idle brings it right back up to where it was. Same using the radio as a draw."

The "ammeter is showing a slight charge at slow speeds" the ammeter is showing the total current flow in the car. With a charged battery and no accessories turned on, there should be a slight positive current flow to maintain the battery charge.

When you turn on an accessory, you will see the ammeter show negative current flow until the generator is turning fast enough to overcome the negative flow.

If you battery is discharged half way, the ammeter should show a positive current flow for a considerable time, until the battery reaches a charged state. How far the needle goes towards positive flow depends upon the speed that you are traveling and the state of charge of the battery.

Please let me know the make and model of your battery tester, so I can look up how to use it and what to expect when used. Also let me know where you have it connected when testing and the redings that you are getting.

Tom

silverchief
07-16-2019 @ 9:55 AM
Senior
Posts: 510
Joined: Oct 2009
          
Sorry guys - senior moment, I meant voltage REGULATOR not alternator.

37RAGTOPMAN - thanks for input.

51Woodie and Dr.Brown - interesting suggestion guys, but I agree with the members who say, "If you have it working correctly, original equipment works just fine."

Tom - my "Professional Battery Tester" is from O'Reilly Auto Parts and the brand name - SUPER START belongs to Ozark Automotive Distributors. Paid $65.00 and it is made in China, but my close inspection gives every indication it is a quality product. Tests both 6 and 12 volt batteries for "Good or Bad" Voltage supply, charging system voltage, and starter cranking volts. I haven't run the starter test yet because I'm still not sure how it is done. Also, I think I may have misread it's charging system report so need to do that again.

It has two heavy duty clamps and cables, for attaching to the respective posts, some tests with engine off, some with it running. I will let you guys know what happens as I go along.





GK1918
07-18-2019 @ 4:20 AM
New Member
Posts: 120
Joined: Aug 2016
          
I too have a 1946 super deluxe 'only wheels I drive'. Early this month
Its not starting like it did last month. Napa commercial battery that I
thought was no good. So I put another (same type battery) from my
tractor - same thing. I replaced with a new Ford starter still in the box
my father bought in the 50's. Same thing, no its not ground cables.
Just for kicks, I put on a new solenoid. Now instant start whips over like
12 volts. Next engine running with voltmeter I got like 6.3 6.4 volts and
15 amps on the gauge which is a no go, book says should be 7.5 or so volts.
next I tweaked the middle contact on the regulator untill I got that 7.5
volts. Next pick up the tools go for a ride. Start car take off now the
ammeter shows oh 30 amps. within 2-3 miles ammeter trickles back
to 15 amps. (I'm probably going 35 40 mph) turn on lights heater and
amp gauge jumped a little over 15 maybe 16 . Turn off lights heater kept
driving and amp trickled down almost to the middle of the gauge. Shut
off engine now just touch the button and its running. So I'm saying original style regulators are adjustable with little screw and lock nut and
most replacment regulators you have to bend a tab for more spring tension
I do this with engine running about 20mph adjusting while watching the
voltmeter. work for me !! sam



TomO
07-18-2019 @ 10:54 AM
Senior
Posts: 7238
Joined: Oct 2009
          
Bill, your tester is a battery load tester and it will do a good job of testing the battery. It will also give you voltage readings when you use your starter and when the generator is charging. You have to be careful and use it just as the instructions say or you will get incorrect results.



Tom

silverchief
07-20-2019 @ 12:07 PM
Senior
Posts: 510
Joined: Oct 2009
          

Correct. I like the battery tester, but some instructions re proper usage are vague. Perhaps written by a Chinese language interpreter.

Anyway, today I utilized several "threads" to run tests regarding the generator idle output, starter, regulator, and solenoid. Running these tests involves starting and stopping the engine several times over a one hour period. At no time did any of these units fail to operate. The starter in particular did not act up. Some voltmeter readings were just a little shy of the desired reading, but nothing was way off. Also, before running the tests I installed a brand new Duracell battery.

Tomorrow I am going to test for generator output of at least 7.2 volts at fast idle. If it is low, I have another regulator I can install to see if will cause more output.



silverchief
07-21-2019 @ 2:57 PM
Senior
Posts: 510
Joined: Oct 2009
          

Today I grounded my voltmeter then put the opposite lead in the Batt terminal of the regulator. Increasing engine speed to about 1500 rpm easily brought the volts reading to 7.4

So far none of the starting or charging circuit units shows an obvious problem.
Tomorrow I'm going to use the battery tester to run another test on the starter itself, but reading instructions on the battery tester leaves me unsure as to what kind of reading I should be looking for.

<< previous || next >> 
PAGE: 1 2


NOTE: YOU MUST BE A REGISTERED USER AND BE LOGGED IN TO POST (and reply to) messages in this forum. If you are a first time user, please click the CREATE A NEW ACCOUNT in the masthead above to register and Log In. After that, all you do is LOG IN to enjoy using this site.

DISCLAIMER: The V-8 Club does no independent testing of any of the opinions, thoughts or suggestions presented in the website on the Forum, in the Tech Tips section, or any section. A reader should consider the website to be a forum wherein differing solutions to a particular set of circumstances may be discussed. Ultimately, the selection of an item for an individual's vehicle must be based upon the independent study of the vehicle owner in consultation with people in the hobby and restoration experts.


EFV-8 Club Forum Home | Back to Home Page | Contact the Webmaster

Copyright © 2009 - EFV-8.org
Powered by < CF FORUM > v.2.1