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EFV-8 Club Forum / General Ford Discussion / Fuel pump problem

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Posted By Discussion Topic: Fuel pump problem -- page: 1 2 3

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fordmerc
07-01-2011 @ 8:17 AM
New Member
Posts: 180
Joined: Oct 2009
          
Pump won't pump on car, off car manual depression of the arm gives -6 vacuum. Push rod is correct length, the rod moves at least 1/4 in up and down. The problem still seems to be that on the car the push rod is not pushing the arm in the pump or at least there is insufficient travel up and down
What did I do wrong? ?suggestions?
(the pump worked before I removed it to remove the manifold)

supereal
07-01-2011 @ 10:42 AM
Senior
Posts: 6819
Joined: Oct 2009
          
Are you sure you got the pump rod in the cup of the pump? We usually remove the pump and stand to replace the pump. It makes the job easier, and allows the pump to be set down on the rod. It is also possible that the spring on the pump arm may have been lost when it was removed.

37RAGTOPMAN
07-01-2011 @ 10:42 AM
Senior
Posts: 1992
Joined: Oct 2009
          
Was wondering were you bought your kit.
you might have to loosen the screws were it comes together and pre load the diaphram,[ centering it,]and while doing that
tighten the screws.
this might be the answer.
this might reduce the stroke you need, the reason it works off the car, manualy your are increasing the stroke,
let hear how you made out. 37RAGTOPMAN

fordmerc
07-01-2011 @ 11:45 AM
New Member
Posts: 180
Joined: Oct 2009
          
Pump and stand installed as a unit. The spring is seated and intact.
Rebuild kit purchased from C&G 4 years ago (it has been a long and painful restoration!)
I removed the unit again, loosened the screws fully, loaded the diaphragm and then tightened the screws. Unfortunately, no improvement.
For the record, another pump loaned to me does work, although it is not identical to mine which seemed to work at one time.

ford38v8
07-01-2011 @ 11:45 AM
Senior
Posts: 2883
Joined: Oct 2009
          
Fordmerc, check your rocker arm for wear at the pivot. Rebuild kits used to come with new rocker arms, but these days you have to order them separately.

Alan

fordmerc
07-01-2011 @ 11:47 AM
New Member
Posts: 180
Joined: Oct 2009
          
Rocker arm seems OK and not worn - it looks almost new but I don't recall whether I Replaced it or not

ford38v8
07-01-2011 @ 12:00 PM
Senior
Posts: 2883
Joined: Oct 2009
          
Vacuum isn't the whole story: You may have a defective outgoing check valve. You may also have an air leak at the inlet that isn't apparent when you check vacuum.

Alan

fordmerc
07-01-2011 @ 6:15 PM
New Member
Posts: 180
Joined: Oct 2009
          
Valves considered, but they are "new". I can also draw air in the appropriate directions.
since the pump was on the car when I got it I assumed it was original. It does not meet the description provided in the "Ford" book, so I am pursuing a "new" pump appropriate to the car. I have concluded that the push rod and the lever arm are not appropriately matched and insufficient travel is the problem. I will also replace the push rod since I had bent the original and the new one is a "repro".
Thanks for suggestions


37RAGTOPMAN
07-01-2011 @ 6:26 PM
Senior
Posts: 1992
Joined: Oct 2009
          
Fordmerc
I think if you would have described the engine,year of car,or posted a picture.. it might help ,finding out what you are doing that is wrong,
someone could post a picture, what you should be using for a fuel pump and the correct stand,
bending a fuel pump push rod, makes me believe there is something really wrong,I never saw one bent,how did that happen ? Must have been jammed up to do that, a long push rod and short stand,? maybe this bent the fuel pump lever ??? and now creating a problem.
cast iron intake 8 7/8 push rod
Aluminum intake 7 7/8 push rod
I think this is correct, it if isn't someone for sure will correct me,
my 3 cents 37RAGTOPMAN

This message was edited by 37RAGTOPMAN on 7-1-11 @ 6:29 PM

TomO
07-02-2011 @ 8:24 AM
Senior
Posts: 7385
Joined: Oct 2009
          
Fordmerc, you said that you " loosened the screws fully, loaded the diaphragm and then tightened the screws."

The diaphragm must be relaxed when tightening the screws. The correct method is loosen all of the screws so that the lock washers are just touching the screws and casting, operate the arm a few times and then release it. Tighten the screws on a cross pattern.

Operate the arm on the pump with it off of the car and observe the movement. There should be no movement at the pivot point and the arm should pull the diaphragm with less than 1/16' of movement.

I suspect that your diaphragm is stretched from improper installation.

Tom

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