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Early Ford V-8 Club Forum

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EFV-8 Club Forum / General Ford Discussion / Early V8 Block

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Posted By Discussion Topic: Early V8 Block -- page: 1 2

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1934 Ford
06-15-2022 @ 1:02 PM
Senior
Posts: 582
Joined: Oct 2009
          
A very educational thread for 6 weeks. This is what makes these forums so special. Thanks
Greg, let us know when you get to drive it again and if it is really a non leaker now.
My flatheads are like my VW's, they all mark their spot, which keeps me bringing home cardboard sheets.

1934 Ford's since 1972

gmcbuffalo
06-12-2022 @ 10:16 PM
Member
Posts: 83
Joined: Jul 2011
          
You guys nailed it. I left out the slotted screws that is above the pop pump gear plate.
Thanks

Greg Meiling
1935 3 Window Coupe

40cpe
06-02-2022 @ 7:57 PM
Member
Posts: 488
Joined: Jan 2010
          
Pretty sure it's the oil galley. It should have a recessed plug in it.

gmcbuffalo
06-02-2022 @ 5:55 PM
Member
Posts: 83
Joined: Jul 2011
          
Tom
I took the engine out. Pan gasket look fine. On this model there is no rear rope seal. I removed the clutch and flywheel. The cam shaft cover is not leaking.
Now I see a machined hole half covered by the cam shaft cover. If I stick a probe in it it goes in about 2”. Now my second block has the same hole but the probe only goes in a 1/2”. So I am missing something in my rebuild. What is that hole for.?
I can not find any reference to it in tracker and Herman’s rebuild book.

Greg Meiling
1935 3 Window Coupe

This message was edited by gmcbuffalo on 6-2-22 @ 5:56 PM

TomO
05-22-2022 @ 11:25 AM
Senior
Posts: 7385
Joined: Oct 2009
          
I am not that familiar with the early engines, but it looks to me like he may have a main bearing cap that requires the pot metal seal with the V-groove for the slinger. The rear main cap inside should look like the block in the second photo.

The other place that I would look is the cover over the rear of the camshaft.

Before you tear it apart again, put a measuring cup under the cotter pin and crank the engine over again. It would be a help to know exactly how much oil is coming out. Just cranking the engine should not allow a lot of oil past the slinger or rear cap drain. A lot of oil from cranking would indicate that rear camshaft cover is not sealing or the oil is leaking from the oil galley.

Tom

gmcbuffalo
05-22-2022 @ 10:57 AM
Member
Posts: 83
Joined: Jul 2011
          
Crazy car thank you.

Greg Meiling
1935 3 Window Coupe

gmcbuffalo
05-22-2022 @ 10:56 AM
Member
Posts: 83
Joined: Jul 2011
          
Paul
No didn’t have one. Looking to get Ann original motor for the car I traded this engine for the ‘48 year model I had. Had the engine for 50 years and just two years ago start overhauling it. When I took it apart it didn’t have this tube, I could be wrong. I have two other babbit blocks like this one and neither one has this tube. What would it look like?

Greg Meiling
1935 3 Window Coupe

carcrazy
05-22-2022 @ 9:27 AM
Senior
Posts: 1976
Joined: Oct 2009
          
You might want to contact our club's Flathead Engine Advisor, Joe Abbin for help in solving your problem. As listed in the latest edition of the V-8 Times, his contact info. is:

Joe Abbin
PO Box 53296
Albuquerque, NM 87153
roadrunnerengr@msn.com


1931 Flamingo
05-22-2022 @ 4:53 AM
Member
Posts: 396
Joined: Nov 2019
          
Did you obtain and install the rear main tube before re-installing the engine??
Paul in CT

gmcbuffalo
05-22-2022 @ 1:30 AM
Member
Posts: 83
Joined: Jul 2011
          
Well I put it back in the car, what a struggle. I had the engine upside down when I put the pan back on to make sure the gasket didn’t slip. I tried to start it today and after 15 minutes of cranking I had a 6” puddle under the car again. Does anyone know of someone I could call to talk to about this.? I’m willing to pull the motor again but I really can’t see anything wrong or at least obvious. Not getting much help locally. I’ve had this car for 60+ years and the last time I drove it I was 17. I would like to drive it at least one more time.

Greg Meiling
1935 3 Window Coupe

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