| gmcbuffalo | -- 04-25-2022 @ 3:28 PM |
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I have what I thought was a 1934 block with babbit bearings(ugh). After almost 2 years having it dipped, cleaned and rebabbited I tried to start it and it leaked oil out from cotter pin hole. I dropped the pan and replaced the cork gaskets. Turned it over again and the same oil leak. Removed the engine and flipped it over and found nothing missing or unusual. It doesn't have the standard seals that you see in the rebuild manuals. I have read that you can't overfill these engines or they leak. should I be looking for a newer block or can this block be converted to one that leak less Greg Meiling 1935 3 Window Coupe
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| gmcbuffalo | -- 04-25-2022 @ 3:35 PM |
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Here are picture of the rear main and seals. Greg Meiling 1935 3 Window Coupe
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| pauls39coupe | -- 04-25-2022 @ 6:32 PM |
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Are you sure this is engine oil and not transmission fluid? The input shaft seal on the transmission is often a source of an oil leak and it will come out of the same weep hole. If it is engine oil, there is a cover at the back of the block behind the flywheel, which covers the oil pump drive. If the plug on the oil galley is not flush, it can cause this cover to not seal and oil will run down behind the flywheel, and out the weep hole in the clutch cover. I would also check to be sure the oil pan rails are flat, and that you have the correct oil pan gaskets. Some oil will drip from the weep hole on nearly all flatheads. A few drops every hundred miles or so is not a great concern. However, a steady stream or large puddle should be taken care of.
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| 40 Coupe | -- 04-26-2022 @ 4:47 AM |
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The rear main cap is missing the oil return tube. For 33-34 the tube is long and can interfear with the oil pump used, are you using the later style of pump? note where your oil pan is impressing a mark on the rear cork seal. does the indention mark go all the way around the cork? Usually the mark is near the center of the corks width yours is just touching. If there is too much crankshaft end play you can wind up with a leak. Do check the things Paul has mentioned above.
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| gmcbuffalo | -- 04-28-2022 @ 11:01 AM |
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There was no tube for the main when I took the engine apart. Check the flywheel cover area mentioned and it is tight and no signs of oil dripping from it. Same for transmission area. The cork gasket should be a good enough seal and I see what you are saying about it not being centered. I did notice a small flaw in the cork. Replaced the cork and reinstalled, cranked it over and all is dry. Now to see if I can get it started. Another thing I notices is the oil dipstick wanted to go deeper than the pan. while trying to adjust the stick to fit tighter in the tube I noticed it had a standing that maybe this is not the right stick. Like 8B and one other letter. I may have over filled it. Either way I fill it to the middle of the safe zone. Greg Meiling 1935 3 Window Coupe
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| TomO | -- 04-28-2022 @ 2:19 PM |
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Put in 5 quarts and mark your dipstick. Tom
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| gmcbuffalo | -- 05-22-2022 @ 1:30 AM |
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Well I put it back in the car, what a struggle. I had the engine upside down when I put the pan back on to make sure the gasket didn’t slip. I tried to start it today and after 15 minutes of cranking I had a 6” puddle under the car again. Does anyone know of someone I could call to talk to about this.? I’m willing to pull the motor again but I really can’t see anything wrong or at least obvious. Not getting much help locally. I’ve had this car for 60+ years and the last time I drove it I was 17. I would like to drive it at least one more time. Greg Meiling 1935 3 Window Coupe
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| 1931 Flamingo | -- 05-22-2022 @ 4:53 AM |
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Did you obtain and install the rear main tube before re-installing the engine?? Paul in CT
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| carcrazy | -- 05-22-2022 @ 9:27 AM |
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You might want to contact our club's Flathead Engine Advisor, Joe Abbin for help in solving your problem. As listed in the latest edition of the V-8 Times, his contact info. is: Joe Abbin PO Box 53296 Albuquerque, NM 87153 roadrunnerengr@msn.com
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| gmcbuffalo | -- 05-22-2022 @ 10:56 AM |
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Paul No didn’t have one. Looking to get Ann original motor for the car I traded this engine for the ‘48 year model I had. Had the engine for 50 years and just two years ago start overhauling it. When I took it apart it didn’t have this tube, I could be wrong. I have two other babbit blocks like this one and neither one has this tube. What would it look like? Greg Meiling 1935 3 Window Coupe
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| gmcbuffalo | -- 05-22-2022 @ 10:57 AM |
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Crazy car thank you. Greg Meiling 1935 3 Window Coupe
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| TomO | -- 05-22-2022 @ 11:25 AM |
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I am not that familiar with the early engines, but it looks to me like he may have a main bearing cap that requires the pot metal seal with the V-groove for the slinger. The rear main cap inside should look like the block in the second photo. The other place that I would look is the cover over the rear of the camshaft. Before you tear it apart again, put a measuring cup under the cotter pin and crank the engine over again. It would be a help to know exactly how much oil is coming out. Just cranking the engine should not allow a lot of oil past the slinger or rear cap drain. A lot of oil from cranking would indicate that rear camshaft cover is not sealing or the oil is leaking from the oil galley. Tom
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| gmcbuffalo | -- 06-02-2022 @ 5:55 PM |
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Tom I took the engine out. Pan gasket look fine. On this model there is no rear rope seal. I removed the clutch and flywheel. The cam shaft cover is not leaking. Now I see a machined hole half covered by the cam shaft cover. If I stick a probe in it it goes in about 2”. Now my second block has the same hole but the probe only goes in a 1/2”. So I am missing something in my rebuild. What is that hole for.? I can not find any reference to it in tracker and Herman’s rebuild book. Greg Meiling 1935 3 Window Coupe This message was edited by gmcbuffalo on 6-2-22 @ 5:56 PM
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| 40cpe | -- 06-02-2022 @ 7:57 PM |
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Pretty sure it's the oil galley. It should have a recessed plug in it.
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| gmcbuffalo | -- 06-12-2022 @ 10:16 PM |
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You guys nailed it. I left out the slotted screws that is above the pop pump gear plate. Thanks Greg Meiling 1935 3 Window Coupe
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| 1934 Ford | -- 06-15-2022 @ 1:02 PM |
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A very educational thread for 6 weeks. This is what makes these forums so special. Thanks Greg, let us know when you get to drive it again and if it is really a non leaker now. My flatheads are like my VW's, they all mark their spot, which keeps me bringing home cardboard sheets. 1934 Ford's since 1972
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