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Discussion Topic:
'36 won't fire up
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40 Coupe |
09-23-2020 @ 4:12 AM
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Senior
Posts: 1649
Joined: Oct 2009
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After sitting for such a long time you may want to do a compression check to see if valves are stuck in open position also.
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carcrazy |
09-22-2020 @ 8:04 PM
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Senior
Posts: 1597
Joined: Oct 2009
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One way to see if you have any spark at all is to spray some starter fluid into the carburetor before cranking the engine with the ignition switch turned on. If the engine does not even try to fire up and run, you know you have no spark. Does the starter turn the engine over at the normal cranking speed?
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CDemarest |
09-22-2020 @ 6:17 PM
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Member
Posts: 29
Joined: Oct 2019
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Thanks. I do know that the gas is fresh. I’ll try your other suggestions.
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pauls39coupe |
09-22-2020 @ 5:25 PM
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Member
Posts: 201
Joined: Jul 2014
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We need a bit more information. If you open the throttle quickly do you get a shot of gas down the carb? Is the gas fresh? Pull one of the spark plugs and crank the engine over with the ignition on. Do you get a fat blue spark from the plug? Run a compression check, do all the cylinders produce at least 75-80 psi?
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CDemarest |
09-22-2020 @ 4:32 PM
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Member
Posts: 29
Joined: Oct 2019
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This story starts a long time ago. I purchased a 1936 Ford pickup 50 years ago. It was in bad shape. I tore it completely down to the bare frame and have been rebuilding it. About 40 years ago, I bought a rebuilt replacement engine. The one I received had blanking plates on the block where the water pumps were intended to be mounted. I understand that this type block came out in 1937 and it was not a totally uncommon practice to put these blocks into older vehicles as replacements and add the blanking plates. Anyway, around the same time, I bought a rebuilt distributor with the flat top (2 screw) coil. I had the engine running for a very short time back 40 years ago and then the project was put on the back burner until recently. I've been trying to get the engine to run for several weeks with no success. I've purchased and installed a rebuilt distributor body, rotor and points as well as replacing the capacitor and resistor (located on inside of firewall). I purchased a replacement coil (not rebuilt as far as I know). I haven't changed the spark plug wires since the engine was running 40 years ago so I believe they are connected correctly. I know the engine is getting gas because I have a clear plastic tube feeding into the fuel pump and I see the gas being drawn in. The engine cranks but I only get what sound like an single ignition once in a while. The voltage at the input to the coil is 6 volts and then drops down to a little over 3 volts as I crank the starter and I would imagine that the points close. I measure 2,800 ohms over the primary (no condenser) and 8,500 ohms over the secondary coil. Does anyone have any suggestions? Should I look into a rebuilt coil? Many thanks, Charlie Demarest
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