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EFV-8 Club Forum / General Ford Discussion / sequence to mount 1936 Cabriolet to frame

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Discussion Topic: sequence to mount 1936 Cabriolet to frame

slow poke

05-08-2020 @ 12:07 AM

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Joined: May 2020

I have removed my 1936 Cabriolet from it's frame. I boxed with x frame work through out the interior of the car. A to B pillar and cross ways like crazy. When I lifted the body off (body/trunk/rear fenders complete) I still noticed a small bit of flex.....wow with all the welded bracing..........Prior to removing the body, the doors didn't quite fit exact but sufficient. So, I bought a new body mount kit that has a lot of cork strips and some rubber strips. I heard about long rubber strips that run the length of the frame 9' instead of cork that can be bought. Then, Bob Drake has these rubber shims that can be spaced/stacked together to make up space, etc...

What is the sequence: where to start bolting down the body to frame?
At starting point, Do I use the original body mount kit material, or aftermarket trick stuff that "the ol pro's used?"to aid in aligning the doors to quarter panel?
Is there tricks that can make this rigid enough for proper door alignment. Cork doesn't sound like my expectation of thing's not moving. Maybe in 1936 But, I would just like to have success in mounting it GOOD the first time with some good common talk.

P.S. I could never get a set of doors on a 53 Cadillac Convertible to line up correctly. I moved every hinge, everything. An old man in his 80's showed up to this shop I was working at and sat down across the room at a table. Soon, he was watching me on the car. All of a sudden with a broken voice he said: Boy, it's the middle body mount under the door. I spaced that thing, doors moved up 1/4 inch and doors shut perfect! This is the advice I might need here.

Thanks

37RAGTOPMAN

05-11-2020 @ 3:27 PM

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hi slow poke
I think you would be better to start in the front,
you have to line up your grill ,, the hood and front fenders, keeping the gaps,
then work you way back and line up the doors, keeping the gaps,
this is very hard process, it is the trial and error process,
adding shims and subtracting shims, you might have to make some of your own,
just remember when you tighten up bolts,. all things will change,
going back and forth,
hopefully some else will have a easier way.
hope this helps 37Ragtopman MAINE

3w2

05-11-2020 @ 4:00 PM

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After you have all of the body-to-frame bolts installed and finger tight (nothing tighter), walk away for a couple of days and let gravity be your friend in the interim to settle the body on the frame. The point of doing that is that each of the various insulation components have different molecular memories and the weight of the body will cause them to reach a point of stability. After that start alternating from side to side progressively tightening, but not completely) until you reach the back of the A pillars. Measure the door openings top and bottom (writing down the measurements and comparing them with the width of the doors). Continue the same process rearward frequently re-checking the width of the door openings. Should a measurable change take place in the door opening width it would be wise to stop and consider adding thin shims of sheet metal such as galvanized steel or aluminum to restore the desired door opening widths. Continue on to finish up at the rear. Restart the same process starting from the beginning, with each complete cycle progressively tightening the bolts until all of them are tight and your door opening widths are stable where you want them.

Unlike some other model years' bodies, '35-'36 open car bodies do not have the strength in the sills to prevent misalignment between the A and B pillars when off the chassis frame and your internal bracing will make up for most, but not all of that flexibility in the sills.

trjford8

05-12-2020 @ 8:43 AM

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In addition to the good advice given, go to Harbor Freight and buy a box of front end shims. They come in various thicknesses and can come in very handy when shimming the body for alignment..

slow poke

06-05-2020 @ 11:45 PM

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I really appreciate the time explaining about letting the body settle in on the various rubbers pieces. I am going to give it a run this weekend to do some tightening, working from front to rear. And yes, I'm going to need more shims!

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