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Discussion Topic:
Inches of vacuum
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37RAGTOPMAN |
04-11-2020 @ 3:17 PM
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Senior
Posts: 1942
Joined: Oct 2009
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HI I would try MARVEL MYSTERY OIL, I believe if the engine ran ok and started to run poorly valves could be sticking in the guides, I have seen it happen if you do not add MMO when the engine is new, like for maybe the first 500 miles, You can drip in the carburetor when running, do this outside, it will SMOKE, its a easy fix and it might just work, it also might be valve spring weak or broken, LET HEAR how you made out, hope this helps, 1937Ragtopman
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mfirth |
04-11-2020 @ 3:00 PM
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Member
Posts: 206
Joined: Nov 2017
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The car did not run fine...as i said before, it started acting up last fall. Repleced every ign part and yes it is wired correctly. It sounds & runs good now, but,..... has low vac 14 inches and uneven idle and hesitation coming off idle.
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carcrazy |
04-11-2020 @ 1:26 PM
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Senior
Posts: 1597
Joined: Oct 2009
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OK, this is a long shot. If the car ran fine before it was put away for the winter but now runs poorly, there is a chance that rodents or other vermin may have gotten into either the engine or exhaust system and are causing this problem.
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mfirth |
04-11-2020 @ 10:08 AM
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Member
Posts: 206
Joined: Nov 2017
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Oh, the advance is working & i've tested the diaphram for leak down. The carb on there now is a Dennnis Carpenter a94 bout 3 years old. I also have a fresh Charlie NY 1 inch bore and they both act the same except the larger carb gives a lot more throttle respponse. The larger carb was his idea so i could keep the load-a-matic. Charlies carb was on the engine last fall when it started acting up. So, i put the Carpenter one bac on. The only difference was a minor loss of acceleration. Engine has the same problem regardless of what carb is on it. I won't mess with it any more for a while....we all need a rest....spring is coming. Thanks again !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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TomO |
04-11-2020 @ 8:20 AM
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Senior
Posts: 7244
Joined: Oct 2009
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Mike, you may have to enable Adobe Flash Player for that site. Each browser has a different way of enabling it. I cna tell you how to do this on a windows computer if you let me know which browser you are using. The noise that you are hearing from the carburetor might be because of a stuck valve. Try dribbling Marvel Mystery Oil down the throat of the carburetor, with the engine idling, for about 2 minutes and then pour some in fast enough to kill the engine, but not so fast that you get a hydraulic lock. Let the car sit over night and then repeat the dribble process. Take the car out for a drive and see if it gets better. The Max 1 cam is a 3/4 race cam and will lower intake vacuum to around 15-16 inches. The uneven idle can be caused by idle adjustments being out of range or a carburetor leaking fuel into the intake manifold. After the MMO treatment, try to adjust the idle again. Turn both idle mixture screws in until they are lightly seated, then back out each one for 1 full turn. Connect your dwell meter and turn the switch to RPM. Start the engine and let it warm up. Adjust the idle speed to 475 -500. Connect your vacuum gauge to the intake manifold port and turn each mixture screw in 1/8 of a turn. If the vacuum increases, turn both screws in 1/8 of a turn until the vacuum starts to drop, then back off the 1/8 turn. If the vacuum decreases, turn both screws out 1/8 of a turn until the vacuum reaces a max and starts to drop. It is important to make the same adjustment on each side of the carburetor or you can run into a condition where only one set of idle ports is feeding the engine. Recheck the idle speed. If you still have the problem, start the engine and let it idle. Look down the throat of the carburetor to see if you can see gas flowing int the throat. If you can, it is time to have the carburetor rebuilt. Send it to Charlie Scwendler. Another thing to check is the point dwell. It should be 26-28 degrees. slowly increase the RPMs to 2,000 while watching the dwell meter. The dwell should not vary more than 2 degrees total. Let us know how you make out. Edit: I just read your last post and want to add one more test to the above list. Check your distributor advance by connecting the timing light and watching the advance as you slowly increase RPMs. It should advance smoothly from about 600 rpm up to 2,000 rpm. If it does not, the distributor will have to be removed and set up on a distributor machine by someone familiar with the Ford distributors of this era. Timing could be the cause of your flatspot or it could be a bad power valve in the carburetor. Tom
This message was edited by TomO on 4-11-20 @ 8:39 AM
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51woodie |
04-11-2020 @ 7:37 AM
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Senior
Posts: 510
Joined: Jan 2017
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mfirth TomO asked about the compression. Have you tested each cylinder dry and wet? What are the readings? With the engine idling, pull a plug wire off each cylinder and listen for a change in speed/sound. If compression is off between cylinders, or there is a change in sound/speed, then that cylinder is likely the culprit.
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mfirth |
04-11-2020 @ 7:28 AM
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Member
Posts: 206
Joined: Nov 2017
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Single 94 carb. This engine RAN FINE TILL LAST FALL like i said i a previous post. Timing is on the mark and changing it does not affect the l vacuum much. Valves are fine, dual exhaust sounds perfect. No popping, no wheezing. Once you get it off idle it runs pretty good,other than hessitation from a dead stop...and yes the accelerator pump is working fine. Elect & mech pump with fuel pres at 3 lbs. Good temp, 180-190, oil pres. 13 hot idle & 50 hot on the road. I just read two posts on other sites where guys chased simular problems & it turned out to be heat riser burn through......?? We'll see .waiting for consistant warm weather now sa i only have a 1 car garage....and i'm frustrated.... T H A N K S again everyone !!!! mike
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37RAGTOPMAN |
04-11-2020 @ 6:09 AM
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Senior
Posts: 1942
Joined: Oct 2009
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HI do you have more information, but here a A few more things to check, are the ignition wires are on correctly, recheck them , follow firing order, any back firing,? is the exhaust system clogged, does it rev up ok, sound like exhaust coming from the carb sounds like CAM may be tooth off, or ign wire problem sounds like it is firing before top dead center,? also what is your VALVES SET AT ? tight intake valves. also use another vacuum gauge, hope this helps 1937 Ragtopman The MORE information you supply will making a diagnosis easier, and at he answer to your problem
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40 Coupe |
04-11-2020 @ 4:51 AM
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Senior
Posts: 1650
Joined: Oct 2009
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Do you have dual carbs?
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mfirth |
04-10-2020 @ 4:47 PM
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Member
Posts: 206
Joined: Nov 2017
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Forgot, the needle is fluctuating and idle is uneven....varries up & down................. Thanks....i'm ready to sell it.
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