| mfirth | -- 04-07-2020 @ 5:47 AM |
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What is good vacuum for an 8BA ? I accidentially pulled the wiper hose off of the intake & it didn't feel like very much vac there. I'm gonna check it today to see what it's pulling.The engine only has 1200 miles on it. Thanks guys !!!! mike
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| JT Ford | -- 04-07-2020 @ 1:28 PM |
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19 to 20
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| mfirth | -- 04-07-2020 @ 5:16 PM |
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Thanks JT ! Only showing 14 inches......leak some where.
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| 39 Ken | -- 04-08-2020 @ 5:06 AM |
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Here is a link to vacuum readings that will indicate if you have a leak and where. Hook up your gauge and see what it does. https://www.onallcylinders.com/2015/05/08/quick-tech-how-to-read-a-vacuum-gauge-to-pinpoint-engine-problems/
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| mfirth | -- 04-08-2020 @ 5:33 AM |
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Thanks fellas! When it stops raining, i may go to it again. Ken, thanks for the link, most helpful. mike
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| 37RAGTOPMAN | -- 04-08-2020 @ 5:46 AM |
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hi I took a photo of a Vacuum gauge, is the engine running smoothly ? is the needle steady at 14 , hope this helps 1937Ragotpman
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| mfirth | -- 04-10-2020 @ 4:52 AM |
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Thanks all ! Looks like a possible burn through of the heat riser on the intake. Can find no external leak. Will pull the intake next week & check it out. We'll see.................. thanks again! mike
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| 40 Coupe | -- 04-10-2020 @ 8:04 AM |
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Before you pull the intake have you adjusted the carburetor mixture adjustment screws while the engine is hot. Adjust each screw for the highest vacuum reading, then readjust each. Then after adjustment what is the vacuum reading? This message was edited by 40 Coupe on 4-10-20 @ 8:06 AM
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| 51woodie | -- 04-10-2020 @ 8:51 AM |
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After you do as 40Coupe suggested, and if there is little or no change, you can check for leaks around the carb, carb shaft, carb mount gasket, and around the intake manifold to block mating surfaces, by using an unlit propane torch. With the engine running at idle, turn the torch on half open, then move the head of the torch close to and around the areas noted above. The engine will speed up if there is a leak. You can do an initial test, by removing the wiper hose from the port and "feed" propane at the port. I'm sure there are all sorts of precautions I didn't mention (and I'm sure someone will), but I haven't blown anything up, singed my eyebrows or burned down my garage.... so far.
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| mfirth | -- 04-10-2020 @ 11:53 AM |
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40 Coupe & 51woodie, thanks, but i've already done all that you sugested & it didn't change much. When i give it some throttle i can hear what sounds like an exhaust note coming from the carb. It is strange at best. Thanks fellas !
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| TomO | -- 04-10-2020 @ 1:14 PM |
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Burn through of the heat riser is very unusual. Is your reading steady or does the needle move. Here is a link to how the gauge reacts to different engine conditions. http://www.secondchancegarage.com/public/186.cfm Scenarios 1,2, and 3 are normal conditions all of the other scenarios are indicators of problems. Other Ford specific conditions are: Is your idle set at 475-500 or 425 with automatic trans? Do you have a non stock camshaft? Is the timing set at 2 degrees before TDC with the vacuum advance hose disconnected and plugged? Does your carburetor leak down overnight? This would indicate a vacuum leak at the power valve? What are your compression readings? What altitude is your location? The engine is an air pump, it sucks air in through the carburetor and pushes it out the exhaust. Tom
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| mfirth | -- 04-10-2020 @ 4:45 PM |
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Tom, the link didn't work well...no scenarios were shown. We're at aprox 1500 ft above sea level & the cam is only a max 1. I had this same basic engine in a previous car and never had this condition. This engine is VERY low mile rebuild by a known good flathead builder. Carb does not drain down over nite. This set up ran fine till last october & started do'n things that made you think ign. or carb. Replaced all ign components...helped , but not right. The more you drove it the worse it got.......AND WHY DO I HEAR what sounds like pre ign. or exhaust note coming from the carb when the air cleaner is off of the carb ?
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| mfirth | -- 04-10-2020 @ 4:47 PM |
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Forgot, the needle is fluctuating and idle is uneven....varries up & down................. Thanks....i'm ready to sell it.
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| 40 Coupe | -- 04-11-2020 @ 4:51 AM |
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Do you have dual carbs?
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| 37RAGTOPMAN | -- 04-11-2020 @ 6:09 AM |
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HI do you have more information, but here a A few more things to check, are the ignition wires are on correctly, recheck them , follow firing order, any back firing,? is the exhaust system clogged, does it rev up ok, sound like exhaust coming from the carb sounds like CAM may be tooth off, or ign wire problem sounds like it is firing before top dead center,? also what is your VALVES SET AT ? tight intake valves. also use another vacuum gauge, hope this helps 1937 Ragtopman The MORE information you supply will making a diagnosis easier, and at he answer to your problem
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| mfirth | -- 04-11-2020 @ 7:28 AM |
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Single 94 carb. This engine RAN FINE TILL LAST FALL like i said i a previous post. Timing is on the mark and changing it does not affect the l vacuum much. Valves are fine, dual exhaust sounds perfect. No popping, no wheezing. Once you get it off idle it runs pretty good,other than hessitation from a dead stop...and yes the accelerator pump is working fine. Elect & mech pump with fuel pres at 3 lbs. Good temp, 180-190, oil pres. 13 hot idle & 50 hot on the road. I just read two posts on other sites where guys chased simular problems & it turned out to be heat riser burn through......?? We'll see .waiting for consistant warm weather now sa i only have a 1 car garage....and i'm frustrated.... T H A N K S again everyone !!!! mike
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| 51woodie | -- 04-11-2020 @ 7:37 AM |
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mfirth TomO asked about the compression. Have you tested each cylinder dry and wet? What are the readings? With the engine idling, pull a plug wire off each cylinder and listen for a change in speed/sound. If compression is off between cylinders, or there is a change in sound/speed, then that cylinder is likely the culprit.
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| TomO | -- 04-11-2020 @ 8:20 AM |
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Mike, you may have to enable Adobe Flash Player for that site. Each browser has a different way of enabling it. I cna tell you how to do this on a windows computer if you let me know which browser you are using. The noise that you are hearing from the carburetor might be because of a stuck valve. Try dribbling Marvel Mystery Oil down the throat of the carburetor, with the engine idling, for about 2 minutes and then pour some in fast enough to kill the engine, but not so fast that you get a hydraulic lock. Let the car sit over night and then repeat the dribble process. Take the car out for a drive and see if it gets better. The Max 1 cam is a 3/4 race cam and will lower intake vacuum to around 15-16 inches. The uneven idle can be caused by idle adjustments being out of range or a carburetor leaking fuel into the intake manifold. After the MMO treatment, try to adjust the idle again. Turn both idle mixture screws in until they are lightly seated, then back out each one for 1 full turn. Connect your dwell meter and turn the switch to RPM. Start the engine and let it warm up. Adjust the idle speed to 475 -500. Connect your vacuum gauge to the intake manifold port and turn each mixture screw in 1/8 of a turn. If the vacuum increases, turn both screws in 1/8 of a turn until the vacuum starts to drop, then back off the 1/8 turn. If the vacuum decreases, turn both screws out 1/8 of a turn until the vacuum reaces a max and starts to drop. It is important to make the same adjustment on each side of the carburetor or you can run into a condition where only one set of idle ports is feeding the engine. Recheck the idle speed. If you still have the problem, start the engine and let it idle. Look down the throat of the carburetor to see if you can see gas flowing int the throat. If you can, it is time to have the carburetor rebuilt. Send it to Charlie Scwendler. Another thing to check is the point dwell. It should be 26-28 degrees. slowly increase the RPMs to 2,000 while watching the dwell meter. The dwell should not vary more than 2 degrees total. Let us know how you make out. Edit: I just read your last post and want to add one more test to the above list. Check your distributor advance by connecting the timing light and watching the advance as you slowly increase RPMs. It should advance smoothly from about 600 rpm up to 2,000 rpm. If it does not, the distributor will have to be removed and set up on a distributor machine by someone familiar with the Ford distributors of this era. Timing could be the cause of your flatspot or it could be a bad power valve in the carburetor. Tom This message was edited by TomO on 4-11-20 @ 8:39 AM
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| mfirth | -- 04-11-2020 @ 10:08 AM |
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Oh, the advance is working & i've tested the diaphram for leak down. The carb on there now is a Dennnis Carpenter a94 bout 3 years old. I also have a fresh Charlie NY 1 inch bore and they both act the same except the larger carb gives a lot more throttle respponse. The larger carb was his idea so i could keep the load-a-matic. Charlies carb was on the engine last fall when it started acting up. So, i put the Carpenter one bac on. The only difference was a minor loss of acceleration. Engine has the same problem regardless of what carb is on it. I won't mess with it any more for a while....we all need a rest....spring is coming. Thanks again !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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| carcrazy | -- 04-11-2020 @ 1:26 PM |
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OK, this is a long shot. If the car ran fine before it was put away for the winter but now runs poorly, there is a chance that rodents or other vermin may have gotten into either the engine or exhaust system and are causing this problem.
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| mfirth | -- 04-11-2020 @ 3:00 PM |
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The car did not run fine...as i said before, it started acting up last fall. Repleced every ign part and yes it is wired correctly. It sounds & runs good now, but,..... has low vac 14 inches and uneven idle and hesitation coming off idle.
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| 37RAGTOPMAN | -- 04-11-2020 @ 3:17 PM |
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HI I would try MARVEL MYSTERY OIL, I believe if the engine ran ok and started to run poorly valves could be sticking in the guides, I have seen it happen if you do not add MMO when the engine is new, like for maybe the first 500 miles, You can drip in the carburetor when running, do this outside, it will SMOKE, its a easy fix and it might just work, it also might be valve spring weak or broken, LET HEAR how you made out, hope this helps, 1937Ragtopman
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