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EFV-8 Club Forum / General Ford Discussion / 12 volt horn install in a 35 Ford

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Discussion Topic: 12 volt horn install in a 35 Ford -- page: 1 2

37RAGTOPMAN

01-29-2020 @ 8:03 AM

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Posts: 1941
Joined: Oct 2009

HI
I went on BING and found this,

auto horn wiring diagram with jd1912 relay
this may help. check it out,,,

I would rewire the car for 6volts, it not that hard with RHODE ISLAND WIRING, all soldered terminals ends,,
I would not trust the other owners wiring, do not know what it looks like, is it neat and fused,?
all you gauges work ?
12 volts can cause fires quickly, if not done correctly
this is my 2 cents 1937RAGTOPMAN

TomO

01-29-2020 @ 7:24 PM

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You have a short circuit somewhere. Try to isolate by removing the wires from the horns and insulating them from ground. Replace the fuse and then press the button. If the fuse blows, the problem is either at the horn relay or the wires to the horn. If the fuse does not blow, the horn motor is shorted.

If the fuse blows, remove the horn wires from the relay and repeat the test. If the fuse blows, the horn relay is bad.

If the fuse does not blow, reconnect one of the horn wires to the relay and retest. If the fuse blows that wire is grounded.

If the fuse does not blow, connect the other wire to the relay and repeat the test. If the fuse blows that wire is shorted to ground.

If the fuse does not blow, connect one of the horns and repeat the test.

The rubber gasket will isolate the mounting from ground, it was necessary on the original wiring because the horn ground was provided by the horn button. With the relay, the horn button only activates the relay and the relay now provides the hot side and your added ground wire at the horn provides the ground.

Come back with the results or for more help.

Tom

MittieLee1935

02-04-2020 @ 2:48 PM

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I got my replacement Spartan 12v 1935 horns. Here is what I have done today. I bought some cheap new hi low note horns from the auto parts store. I bolted them to the original horn brackets. The two terminals on the horns are not labeled. One terminal on each horn I ran as a ground to the bolt under the fender that secures the horn bracket to the fender. The other terminal which I will call positive, I ran a 12 gauge wire to my horn relay left terminal (the 3 horn relay terminals are not labeled) relay mounted to the firewall by a Star washer and bolt. The center terminal on the relay is run to the hot side of my starter solenoid. The terminal on the right I’ll call switch, I hooked up to one of the horn button wires coming out from under the steering shaft. The other wire I taped off. I have installed a 25 amp fuse between the solenoid and horn relay. Both horns sound when the original horn button is pressed. Now I guess I am ready to replace the cheap horns with the expensive Spartan horns. I am a little worried as I shorted out a previous new Spartan horn and burnt up a second. I reordered more horns so I now have $1000 invested. Does it sound like I can proceed? I have 2 wires hooked up to relay terminal “H” on left (one from each horn positive).

This message was edited by MittieLee1935 on 2-4-20 @ 2:54 PM

TomO

02-04-2020 @ 9:35 PM

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Before proceeding I would check the circuit for a short. Do you have an ohm meter?

Tom

MittieLee1935

02-05-2020 @ 5:02 AM

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No I don’t have a ohm meter but the two cheap horns are working normally.

JayChicago

02-05-2020 @ 7:48 AM

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I always wondered why your previous Spartan horns got ruined. The only thing that comes to mind is they can’t handle reverse polarity. So before installing them I would check that.

TomO

02-05-2020 @ 10:04 AM

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My concern is that you say you burned up 2 horns when they were mounted on the car. The horn motor is a simple electric coil magnet and should not burn or short out with the correct voltage applied.

The horn motor vibrates the diaphragm to make the noise by using electric current in an electromagnet to move the armature and diaphragm. When the magnet is energized the contact points open and break the circuit to the magnet allowing the armature to return to the relaxed position. The current is present only a few thousands of a second each time the point close.

The wiring on your car is not stock, so I wanted to check out if there is another reason for burning up the horns without activating the new horns.

If you wired your horns with a hot wire going to one terminal and the grounding wire going to the other terminal, you MUST isolate the mounting bracket from ground by using a rubber gasket. You need an ohmmeter or a test light that will check continuity between the horn case and the body of the car. There should be NO continuity.

Here is a link to a meter that has a good selection of ranges for cars. I cannot vouch for the quality of the meter as I have not purchased this make or model. The needle type meter is more useful in diagnosing old car problems as it is not as sensitive to stray voltage.

https://www.amazon.com/Tekpower-TP7050-7-Function-20-Range-Multimeter/dp/B007IEFC8G/ref=sr_1_12?keywords=analog+multimeter&qid=1580918316&sr=8-12

Tom

This message was edited by TomO on 2-5-20 @ 10:04 AM

MittieLee1935

02-05-2020 @ 10:30 AM

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Thanks to everyone for their help in my horn project. I replaced the cheap horns with the Spartons and they WORKED! But in putting the dome cover back on the left horn the fuse blew again. Evidently one of the terminals must be making contact with the inside of the dome cover. I solved this by wrapping both terminals with electrical tape and that took care of the problem! Thanks again everyone!! This is a great site!!!

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