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Posted By Discussion Topic: Hot battery cables -- page: 1 2     therunwaybehind 05-12-2019 @ 8:53 AM reply profile send p.m. New Member Posts: 180 Joined: May 2019 I have not worked with lead acid batteries used for primary use in a time and so I only know recent trickle chargers. Would they allow a battery to be charged with only 6.85 volts, open circuit? I am not sure. Each cell of a lead acid battery should have 2.2 volts. This is just basic chemistry. Next is hygrometer reading which is the concentration of acid and usually measured with a little diver in a glass tube that sucks up acid out of the cell. Now, recently some batteries are gel type with rolled up plates and so maybe not chance to use an old fashioned hygrometer. The battery chargers of the 50's and 60's had a load test where you could read the voltage of the battery under load to explore internal resistance. This is where you might see a reading like 6.85 volts and it be OK. Power to the motor is volts times amps so if it is delivering a lot of amps the volts may go down. Batteries are rated in ampere hours so you can guess at how long you can crank at a given amperage before the voltage is insufficient to continue. Even though batteries will not usually give you a shock be careful if you are sweaty. I looked up some of Michael Faraday's papers at the Royal Institute to explore more fully the issue of positive ground where J.J. Thompson discovery of the actual charge carriers being electrons, with negative charge, that move on the surface of a wire while positive ions move in the electrolyte of the battery to charge and discharge it. I had looked for some technical expertise on life of ferromagnetic materials in terms of not being a useable core for an electromagnet so simply rewinding could reestablish a part. I already knew that replacing the brushes which for starters usually out last several generators was not successful. If this is too deep, please do ask for diminished content. Don't forget the little braided ground from the engine to the firewall. The key words in working with armatures and fields are "fine magnet wire" and "varnish insulation" not gauge zero battery cable with heavy rubber insulation like for a remote battery in the trunk. Most of the power inside the motor or generator is in magnetic fields and thus "in the air". It is not in an arc as might happen with bad brushes but rather in lines of flux that loop between North and South poles of the magnetic cores and their electrical windings. As an aside, can I have an side here? or will it be considered off topic? Could one of those security wands that gate keepers use at sporting events and music venues be as useful as a "growler" to determine magnetic state of a disassembled part? This message was edited by therunwaybehind on 5-12-19 @ 9:14 AM LarryK 05-12-2019 @ 8:22 AM reply profile send p.m. New Member Posts: 107 Joined: Aug 2012 I am not sure my comment is applicable to your 1953 car, but cars from 1932 through 1948 have a starter mounting bracket that helps to support the starter and thus maintain its proper alignment. The basic part number is - 11140. One end attaches to the starter under the head of the through bolt closest to the engine. The other end attaches to the engine block using the nearest oil pan bolt. Since the oil pan was removed, the shop may have failed to replace this bracket upon reassembly. Larry Larry 51woodie 05-11-2019 @ 5:12 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 561 Joined: Jan 2017 Here is a link to a YouTube video that shows a Ford tractor starter being worked on. The remove/install will be the same on your car. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IlfqBVW2Q2M dandy32 05-11-2019 @ 4:25 AM reply profile send p.m. New Member Posts: 103 Joined: Oct 2017 Hey Jim also make sure there is no paint between the starter and the pan it needs to make good electrical contact for your starter to be grounded properly.Just A thought ford38v8 05-11-2019 @ 12:27 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 2883 Joined: Oct 2009 Jay, the starter is held together by two long bolts which double as mounting bolts. The removal of those bolts enables the starter to dismount, and to disassemble itself if not handled correctly. Alan JayChicago 05-10-2019 @ 6:48 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 556 Joined: Jan 2016 “Starter mounting bolts being the only thing preventing the internals from dislocating“ I don’t understand this. Can you explain? ford38v8 05-10-2019 @ 4:55 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 2883 Joined: Oct 2009 Jim, Given that the "Storage/Restoration Shop" had replaced the pan gasket, they would also have removed the starter to perform that task. Starter mounting bolts being the only thing preventing the internals from dislocating, and the starter having functioned properly before the "restoration", it is very likely that your restoration shop failed to reassemble the starter correctly, thereby precipitating its internal short. If I were you, I'd view that shop's professional conduct with suspicion if they don't own up to the damage they caused. Alan jimbomac 05-10-2019 @ 12:15 PM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 88 Joined: Jul 2014 So we pulled the starter and it was shorted/burned up internally- it's off to the rebuilder. The rest of the electrical system tested ok. Car had a frame off 2 yrs ago and all wiring was replaced at that time. Not sure of battery cable guage, it is thicker than 12 V for sure, but will be going to O now. Thanks for all of the advice! sarahcecelia 05-10-2019 @ 6:17 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 1196 Joined: Mar 2013 Hot battery cables show a resistance, (short), somewhere. Bad starter, or it could be hanging up; short in the hot wire to the starter? It runs along the frame cross member under the oil pan, and is probably cracked and needs replacing after 66 years anyway! It is held to the lip on the rear of that cross member, with as I remember, 2 clips. It's about 44 inches long. (The other end is mounted to the solenoid on the driver side inner fender panel) If you are replacing it, REMEMBER TO DISCONNECT THE GROUND CABLE ON THE BATTERY FIRST!! To test the starter motor; Take the starter off, and put it on the floor. Put your foot on it, (otherwise the torque will make it JUMP!!) to keep it in place, positive jumper cable to case where a mount bolt goes, and take the negative cable and just touch it to the stud that the hot cable goes to. The starter motor should spin freely. Regards, Steve Lee alanwoodieman 05-09-2019 @ 7:31 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 873 Joined: Oct 2009 did they change the cables to a smaller gauge? like 12 volt cables on 6 volts, which will melt the cables

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