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EFV-8 Club Forum / General Ford Discussion / 1935 ford engine troubles

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Discussion Topic: 1935 ford engine troubles -- page: 1 2

05-17-2018 @ 5:45 PM

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Joined: Nov 2009

Post some pictures of the car and especially pictures of under the hood/engine compartment. Show us the battery as well....

Garysr1966

05-18-2018 @ 10:08 AM

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i live in mentone indiana

Garysr1966

05-18-2018 @ 10:10 AM

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here

Garysr1966

05-18-2018 @ 10:11 AM

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here

Garysr1966

05-18-2018 @ 10:11 AM

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if you need more can do

05-18-2018 @ 10:25 AM

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Here are some wiring diagrams for you > http://www.vanpeltsales.com/FH_web/FH_images/FH_electrical-pics/Flathead_Electrical_wiring1935.jpg

And > http://www.vanpeltsales.com/FH_web/FH_images/FH_engine-pics/Flathead_Distrbtr-wiring-1932-36.jpg

Bubba's Ignition is in Indiana > http://www.bubbasignition.com/

This message was edited by MG on 5-18-18 @ 10:28 AM

TomO

05-19-2018 @ 8:14 AM

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The coil that you should be using with the adapter plate is the one that is for a 1949-1955 Ford. Mercury or Lincoln. It is a 6 volt positive ground coil with an internal resister. The battery should be changed to POS ground, because the coil is designed to work with a POS ground.. The coil should have the wire that comes directly from the ignition switch to the "-" terminal of the coil and the "+" terminal of the coil should go to the adapter plate stud. The condenser should have the wire going to the stud and the tab on the case should be attached to one of the mounting screws for the adapter plate. If you have run the car with the coil connected backwards, you should replace the coil and the condenser.

Another thing to check is that the carbon brush on the adapter plate is making contact with the rotor. Also make sure that the distributor housing has continuity to the POS battery post.

You said that you changed the points, check the dwell to make sure that it is around 36 degrees. The set of points on the passenger side of the car determine the timing of the spark and should be set up on a distributor machine.

To get the timing close using a dwell meter, insulate the passenger side points and connect the dwell meter. Pull the high tension lead from the coil and crank the engine. The dwell should be 22 1/2 degrees. Next pull the insulator from the passenger set of point and adjust those points for 36 degrees of dwell. The timing will be very close to correct.

Tom

bentspoke

05-24-2018 @ 7:40 AM

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I purchased a similar 6V coil conversion kit for my '36 in April last year- the car wouldn't run or start well with it. After a month or two of monkey business I took the coil to an auto electric shop, and they determined it was a 12V coil, even though specifically labeled by Dennis Carpenter as 6V. After I swapped for a 6V tractor coil, the car run much better however the resistor and condenser were wrong. The store where I purchased the kit, Vintage Auto Garage San Ramon California, was not able to help me.

Best plan is to use an original Ford coil rebuilt by Skip Haney in Fl. Good luck; ignition problems are frustrating.

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