| Garysr1966 | -- 05-17-2018 @ 5:06 AM |
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i read some on this in here, but here it goes.. first off i read that they are pos ground, mine has the neg ground going to the frame and the pos ground going to the foot starter and then to the starter, don't know if that is right but that is the way it was when i gotten it from my dad, and this has been sitting for 40 years now.. my biggest thing is i have a 1937 distributor and had no spark,cleaned the points up and had spark for a little bit but stop, so change out for the newer coil and top, gotten spark for 2 minutes and stopped again so changed the points and found out that it was my condenser, but what it is doing it eating them like candy.. im on my 5th one and they only last 3 minutes top... what am i missing or doing wrong?
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| TomO | -- 05-17-2018 @ 7:25 AM |
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First of all the car should be 6 volts positive ground. If it has been converted to 12 volts negative ground, you need a 12 volt coil. Second are you using an adapter plate to connect the coil to the distributor? Try using a NAPA ECH FA76. Tom
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| cliftford | -- 05-17-2018 @ 11:04 AM |
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I would suspect ignition switch, resistor, if equiped , or ignition wiring. try running a jumper wire temporiarly from the hot side of battery to the coil terminal. If this makes a difference, check the previously mentioned items. Save those old condensers. I doubt if that is your problem. This message was edited by cliftford on 5-17-18 @ 2:31 PM
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| Garysr1966 | -- 05-17-2018 @ 1:49 PM |
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this is one i have on it... and it is a 6 volt battery
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| Garysr1966 | -- 05-17-2018 @ 1:50 PM |
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with this
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| Garysr1966 | -- 05-17-2018 @ 1:57 PM |
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I would suspect ignition switch, resistor, if equiped , or ignition wiring. try running a jumper wire temporiarly from the hot side of battery to the coil terminal. If this makes a difference, check the previously mentioned item. Save those old condensers. I doubt if that is your problem i am being to think this car hates me,,lol i tried to jump the coil no luck , changed the condenser with the napa one and jumped it again and it lasted 4 minutes and then no spark again
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| cliftford | -- 05-17-2018 @ 2:30 PM |
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Pull the distributor and send to Bubba or someone like him who can completely check it for you.
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| carcrazy | -- 05-17-2018 @ 3:14 PM |
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Your ignition coil could be going bad. When it cools down, the engine will re-start and run again until the coil heats up and stops working.
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| Garysr1966 | -- 05-17-2018 @ 4:11 PM |
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i wish it would run again... see my dad had it for over 45 years now and the last time i heard it run was 40 years ago.
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| MG | -- 05-17-2018 @ 5:39 PM |
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Where do you live? I'm sure there is someone close by who can extricate you from this most devastating dilemma....(:o)
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| MG | -- 05-17-2018 @ 5:45 PM |
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Post some pictures of the car and especially pictures of under the hood/engine compartment. Show us the battery as well....
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| Garysr1966 | -- 05-18-2018 @ 10:08 AM |
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i live in mentone indiana
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| Garysr1966 | -- 05-18-2018 @ 10:10 AM |
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here
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| Garysr1966 | -- 05-18-2018 @ 10:11 AM |
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here
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| Garysr1966 | -- 05-18-2018 @ 10:11 AM |
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if you need more can do
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| MG | -- 05-18-2018 @ 10:25 AM |
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Here are some wiring diagrams for you > http://www.vanpeltsales.com/FH_web/FH_images/FH_electrical-pics/Flathead_Electrical_wiring1935.jpg And > http://www.vanpeltsales.com/FH_web/FH_images/FH_engine-pics/Flathead_Distrbtr-wiring-1932-36.jpg Bubba's Ignition is in Indiana > http://www.bubbasignition.com/ This message was edited by MG on 5-18-18 @ 10:28 AM
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| TomO | -- 05-19-2018 @ 8:14 AM |
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The coil that you should be using with the adapter plate is the one that is for a 1949-1955 Ford. Mercury or Lincoln. It is a 6 volt positive ground coil with an internal resister. The battery should be changed to POS ground, because the coil is designed to work with a POS ground.. The coil should have the wire that comes directly from the ignition switch to the "-" terminal of the coil and the "+" terminal of the coil should go to the adapter plate stud. The condenser should have the wire going to the stud and the tab on the case should be attached to one of the mounting screws for the adapter plate. If you have run the car with the coil connected backwards, you should replace the coil and the condenser. Another thing to check is that the carbon brush on the adapter plate is making contact with the rotor. Also make sure that the distributor housing has continuity to the POS battery post. You said that you changed the points, check the dwell to make sure that it is around 36 degrees. The set of points on the passenger side of the car determine the timing of the spark and should be set up on a distributor machine. To get the timing close using a dwell meter, insulate the passenger side points and connect the dwell meter. Pull the high tension lead from the coil and crank the engine. The dwell should be 22 1/2 degrees. Next pull the insulator from the passenger set of point and adjust those points for 36 degrees of dwell. The timing will be very close to correct. Tom
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| bentspoke | -- 05-24-2018 @ 7:40 AM |
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I purchased a similar 6V coil conversion kit for my '36 in April last year- the car wouldn't run or start well with it. After a month or two of monkey business I took the coil to an auto electric shop, and they determined it was a 12V coil, even though specifically labeled by Dennis Carpenter as 6V. After I swapped for a 6V tractor coil, the car run much better however the resistor and condenser were wrong. The store where I purchased the kit, Vintage Auto Garage San Ramon California, was not able to help me. Best plan is to use an original Ford coil rebuilt by Skip Haney in Fl. Good luck; ignition problems are frustrating.
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