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EFV-8 Club Forum / General Ford Discussion / 36 to 35 engine swap

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Discussion Topic: 36 to 35 engine swap -- page: 1 2 3

Lobo

01-22-2018 @ 8:12 AM

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Thanks for your feedback, I was able to see the parts on line and the visual cleared it up.
I appreciate everyone’s feedback. It is such a value for me to be part of the club!!!!
By the way, I am now the proud owner of a 35 and 36 Phaeton

3w2

01-22-2018 @ 8:23 AM

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Me too ('35 and '36 phaetons)!

Lobo

01-22-2018 @ 4:08 PM

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Come check out my water outlets. As you thought they are severely corroded I’m going to speak with some people about building them up thanks for the tip

By the way is there a way to display more than one photo in the image attachment section

Lobo

01-22-2018 @ 4:09 PM

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I meant to say Tom not done in previous reply

Lobo

01-24-2018 @ 9:16 AM

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Do I need to swap radiators as well ?
I plan on swapping the water outlet/ front motor mounts.
I am putting the rebuilt engine for my 1936 phaeton into the 1935.

flatheadfan

01-24-2018 @ 9:32 AM

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Nope! The '35 and the '36 radiators are different in several ways. A '35 car requires a '35 radiator regardless of the engine. The same is true for a '36. A '36 requires a '36 radiator regardless of the engine

Tom

This message was edited by flatheadfan on 1-24-18 @ 9:33 AM

Lobo

01-24-2018 @ 10:57 AM

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Tom if I use the water outlet/motor mounts off the 35 block in Bol to my 36 I should be OK. Any other issues that may be caused by the different radiators ?

01-25-2018 @ 9:21 AM

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Lobo, I looked at your pictures of those 35 and 36 water inlet/motor mounts and agree that the inlets where the radiator hoses connect are severely eaten/rusted away and should be repaired or replaced. You can find good used sets of those inlet/mounts selling for ~ $60.00 to $70.00 per set. You may even be lucky enough to find an nos set.
Also, based on another earlier comment on main bearings in a 35 vs 36 21 stud engine, there is no guarantee your 36 engine has the insert main bearings, since during 36 production, Ford used both poured babbitt main bearings and insert main bearing type blocks at the same time, or side by side. The only sure way to tell if you have an insert main bearing block would be to remove the oil pan and measure center to center distance of studs holding the main caps in place. Poured babbitt mains = 3" C-C, and insert mains (aka LB) = 3-1/4" C-C.

John

Lobo

01-25-2018 @ 6:25 PM

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Hi John, I have found a welder in Phoenix that is currently repairing the outlets

Secondly the 36 motor is being rebuilt from ground up. During tear down it was revealed the bearings were insert. Either way I knew crankshaft bearings and rods and pistons are being installed.
Thanks so much for your response I have learned so much from this group

Lobo

01-25-2018 @ 6:25 PM

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