Topic: 36 to 35 engine swap


Lobo    -- 01-20-2018 @ 3:35 PM
  What mechanical issues do I need to be aware of in replacing my 1935 flathead V-8 with a late 1936 flathead V-8.
Ford Phaeton,
Secondly is it a big deal for valuation of the car if numbers do not match?

Lastly, was green an original color offered in the 1935Ford Phaeton?

This message was edited by Lobo on 1-20-18 @ 3:44 PM


trjford8    -- 01-20-2018 @ 5:40 PM
  It's a straight up swap. No known glitches that I am aware of. Ford never had matching numbers that were visible. The only numbers that matched were the frame number and the number on the transmission which was hidden by the transmission cover. There are no stamped numbers on the motor. It only has casting numbers.


MG    -- 01-20-2018 @ 6:01 PM
  Check the water inlets/motor mounts. They might be different....


1934 Ford    -- 01-20-2018 @ 7:03 PM
  The water pumps are on the heads and have nothing to do with motor mounts.
As far as I know the only difference is in the internal bearings. I would love one for our 34 Fordor and our 35 Pickup. Should be all afternoon project. If it has insert bearings it adds value to your 35 Ford for anyone who intends to drive it a lot.
Yes there was a green 35 Phaeton.

1934 Ford's since 1972


3w2    -- 01-20-2018 @ 7:13 PM
  With respect, no one has mentioned water pumps, just the combined water inlet/motor mount brackets, which are not the same on a stock '36 engine as those on a stock '35 engine. The point obviously being made is that the swap should include retaining the '35 versions.


flatheadfan    -- 01-20-2018 @ 10:10 PM
  As mentioned the '35 and '36 mounts are slightly different due to the longer radiator on the '36. The '35 outlet is straight . The '36 outlet bends down.

Tom


Lobo    -- 01-21-2018 @ 8:33 AM
  Tom, what do I need to do with motor mount? Do I use the one on the 36 frame and put it on the 35? As far as water outlets do I need new parts?
Sorry for my ignorance?


flatheadfan    -- 01-21-2018 @ 8:51 AM
  No problem here. Just use the '36 engine as planned and pull off the '36 engine mount/water mounts and put on your '35 units . Everything will bolt up without a problem. The only potential problem are the outlets themselves. Too often they are badly pitted or eroded on the ends from decades of use and tend to leak. At this point you will need to do some build up work such as brazing . I doubt if you will find any NOS units floating around. They were gone years ago and no one that I am aware of is reproducing them.

Tom


Lobo    -- 01-21-2018 @ 8:59 AM
  Tom thanks so much for your response


3w2    -- 01-21-2018 @ 7:19 PM
  Lobo,

With respect, reading between the lines above, it seems that it is not fully understood that the water inlets and motor mounts are one and the same component, one for each side at the bottom front of the cylinder block.

They are not separate components and have nothing to do with the water pumps in the heads (where the circulating coolant exits the heads and cylinder block) except that the inlet opening is part of the cooling system and where the cooler water re-enters the cylinder block after circulating through the radiator.


Lobo    -- 01-22-2018 @ 8:12 AM
  Thanks for your feedback, I was able to see the parts on line and the visual cleared it up.
I appreciate everyone’s feedback. It is such a value for me to be part of the club!!!!
By the way, I am now the proud owner of a 35 and 36 Phaeton


3w2    -- 01-22-2018 @ 8:23 AM
  Me too ('35 and '36 phaetons)!


Lobo    -- 01-22-2018 @ 4:08 PM
  Come check out my water outlets. As you thought they are severely corroded I’m going to speak with some people about building them up thanks for the tip


By the way is there a way to display more than one photo in the image attachment section


Lobo    -- 01-22-2018 @ 4:09 PM
  I meant to say Tom not done in previous reply


Lobo    -- 01-24-2018 @ 9:16 AM
  Do I need to swap radiators as well ?
I plan on swapping the water outlet/ front motor mounts.
I am putting the rebuilt engine for my 1936 phaeton into the 1935.




flatheadfan    -- 01-24-2018 @ 9:32 AM
  Nope! The '35 and the '36 radiators are different in several ways. A '35 car requires a '35 radiator regardless of the engine. The same is true for a '36. A '36 requires a '36 radiator regardless of the engine

Tom

This message was edited by flatheadfan on 1-24-18 @ 9:33 AM


Lobo    -- 01-24-2018 @ 10:57 AM
  Tom if I use the water outlet/motor mounts off the 35 block in Bol to my 36 I should be OK. Any other issues that may be caused by the different radiators ?


JM    -- 01-25-2018 @ 9:21 AM
  Lobo, I looked at your pictures of those 35 and 36 water inlet/motor mounts and agree that the inlets where the radiator hoses connect are severely eaten/rusted away and should be repaired or replaced. You can find good used sets of those inlet/mounts selling for ~ $60.00 to $70.00 per set. You may even be lucky enough to find an nos set.
Also, based on another earlier comment on main bearings in a 35 vs 36 21 stud engine, there is no guarantee your 36 engine has the insert main bearings, since during 36 production, Ford used both poured babbitt main bearings and insert main bearing type blocks at the same time, or side by side. The only sure way to tell if you have an insert main bearing block would be to remove the oil pan and measure center to center distance of studs holding the main caps in place. Poured babbitt mains = 3" C-C, and insert mains (aka LB) = 3-1/4" C-C.

John


Lobo    -- 01-25-2018 @ 6:25 PM
  Hi John, I have found a welder in Phoenix that is currently repairing the outlets

Secondly the 36 motor is being rebuilt from ground up. During tear down it was revealed the bearings were insert. Either way I knew crankshaft bearings and rods and pistons are being installed.
Thanks so much for your response I have learned so much from this group


Lobo    -- 01-25-2018 @ 6:25 PM
  Hi John, I have found a welder in Phoenix that is currently repairing the outlets

Secondly the 36 motor is being rebuilt from ground up. During tear down it was revealed the bearings were insert. Either way I knew crankshaft bearings and rods and pistons are being installed.
Thanks so much for your response I have learned so much from this group


ford38v8    -- 01-26-2018 @ 12:24 AM
  Lobo, from the picture of your engine being built, I see that it has not been modified to accept an Allen wrench during installation of adjustable lifters. Forget I mentioned this if you intend to use original lifters, but most builds these days go modern adjustable, for which the Allen wrench hole makes the job much easier.

Alan


3w2    -- 01-26-2018 @ 6:00 PM
  Please note that in your two photos of your motor mount/water inlet casting that the one in the first photo is a '36 and that in the second photo is a '35.


Lobo    -- 01-27-2018 @ 9:45 AM
  Thank you for your response on the lifters I will bring this up with the mechanic that’s working on it.

As an aside where is the radio antenna located on the 1935 for Phaeton?


ford38v8    -- 01-27-2018 @ 12:26 PM
  Lobo, Generally speaking, it is best to open a new thread for questions of a totally different nature. That said, I'm not a '35 guy, but I believe there were two antennae locations for '35 open cars: Under the running board, and behind the spare tire. Closed cars would have had the additional antenna location of chicken wire within the top fabric. Hopefully, someone with more knowledge of '35's will chime in.

Alan


Lobo    -- 01-27-2018 @ 2:15 PM
  Alan, thanks for your response and the heads up on starting a new discussion.


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