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Discussion Topic:
1946 Ford Truck Restoration
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alanwoodieman |
11-17-2009 @ 6:34 AM
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Senior
Posts: 864
Joined: Oct 2009
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forgot to add that on one switch I had to use a very small phillips screw driver and insert it into a hole in the switch to release the knob. My 41 was like this but my 47 had a push button
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polarspeed |
01-10-2010 @ 10:17 PM
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Member
Posts: 3
Joined: Jan 2010
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I have found a 1947 half ton for sale that has been sitting for a year. It was running when it was parked. The engine was rebuilt about 10 years ago with only a few hundred miles on the rebuild. The brakes, starter, generator, transmission and radiator were all rebuilt. It has a 59AB flathead V8 with a 3 spd manual transmission. The body is straight and has the "original" paint but it is an odd sunbleached purple/maroon. There is minimal rust and dents. There were some modifications that were made but were reversed by the previous owner. I am new to old trucks and restoration and want to have this as a project truck to keep it as close to original as my wallet will allow. I would like it to be a daily driver with distances no greater than 15-20 flat miles. I would like to get some advice regarding the suggested value and what the common pitfalls would be with such a truck. I can post a photo, if the forum is interested. Thanks, Steve
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trjford8 |
01-11-2010 @ 6:55 AM
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Senior
Posts: 4203
Joined: Oct 2009
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Steve, two or three photos would help a lot to determine the value. It would also be good to know about the rust spots. Are they surface rust or rusted through and the location.Also tell us about dents, etc and the condition of the bed. The bed is 50% of the truck, so it's condition is very important.
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supereal |
01-11-2010 @ 7:16 AM
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Senior
Posts: 6819
Joined: Oct 2009
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While there are "standard" colors for trucks that were ordered to stock dealer's lots, it was also possible to order trucks from the factory in "non standard" colors, often the trademark shade of the buyer. This is still true today. We have had to plow through several coats of paint on some trucks, only to get to bare metal without matching the chip charts. Due to the poor economy, many fleets, such as state and municipal, have abandoned this extra cost option in favor of saving money.
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polarspeed |
01-11-2010 @ 10:15 AM
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Member
Posts: 3
Joined: Jan 2010
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I have posted pictures on a website. This truck has been outside for most of its life and I am unsure about the bed. It feels solid with most of the rust in the corners and with the stake pockets. The cab is solid with the most rust on the passenger floor. There is some body filler on the driver front fender hiding something curious. The rear fenders are dented but straight with rust at the bottom rear that has made it very irregular with some metal that is split and bent. I appreciate all of your input. Thanks. The website is: http://gallery.me.com/mcwicki#100008
This message was edited by polarspeed on 1-11-10 @ 10:16 AM
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trjford8 |
01-11-2010 @ 7:02 PM
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Senior
Posts: 4203
Joined: Oct 2009
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Steve, it's not a bad looking old truck. I would check the cab corners(look in the corners behind the seat) to see if there is any filler or rust out. This is a common area for rust problems. Also check the back bottom of the cab as this is another area prone to rust. What is the asking price of the truck? Rust out in the stake pockets is common as the drains plugged up and held water. Rust out on the passenger floor is usually caused by a leaky heater core or leaky windshield gasket.
This message was edited by trjford8 on 1-11-10 @ 7:05 PM
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polarspeed |
01-11-2010 @ 8:00 PM
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Member
Posts: 3
Joined: Jan 2010
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I have checked the corners and they are solid. The owner is asking $6500. The estimates that I have gotten so far have been between 4500-6500. What do you think? Thanks, Steve
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