| tonyfs | -- 10-17-2009 @ 9:57 PM |
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Hi, I am a new member and I aquired a 1946 light duty truck, with a Flathead V8, in reasonable condition. It seemes to be in stock condition however i believe the paint (Maroon) was not a stock color for that year. I am interested in restoring it to it's original condition. Where would be a good place to start looking for restoration information? Thanks, Tony
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| 51f1 | -- 10-18-2009 @ 3:57 AM |
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I am not familiar with a '46 model, but I assume that the following are available (others can give you specific sources): buy a Ford service manual and Ford parts book (these are invaluable), get vendor parts catalogs, subscribe to Hemmings, look on ebay for parts (when you search, be sure to search all years that were similar to your '46 model. Ebay could be a source of original Ford manuals and parts books), and buy generic or specific, if avaiable, restoration books. There should be several vendors who produce catalogs. Continue to visit this web site and ask questions. Join the club if you don't already belong. If you intend to restore this truck right and by-your-self, you are looking at a long odyssey. Be prepared to learn to do things you have never done before and will probably never do again. You will probably have to acquire new skills and equipment, but there is nothing you can't do yourself, except for work requiring specialized skills and tools such as machine work on the engine. Just about all of the rest can be done in your garage and/or driveway. Richard This message was edited by 51f1 on 10-18-09 @ 4:12 AM
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| trjford8 | -- 10-18-2009 @ 8:05 AM |
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Tony, Richard gave you some good advice. Also let us know if you belong to the V-8 Club.The club has advisors that can also answer some of your questions and with a club roster you can find other V-8ers in your area to give you advice. If you are already a member let us know and I can give you a name of a V-8er to call who has done some good research on the 46-47 trucks.
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| tonyfs | -- 10-18-2009 @ 6:59 PM |
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I am a member of the V8 Club. My member # 910104 Tony
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| tonyfs | -- 10-18-2009 @ 7:02 PM |
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Richard, Thank you for your insite. I am a new member and I am looking forward to the oddesey. I have been focused on GM cars for a while and the old Foed brings a new set of challenges. Tracking down the color schemes for wxterior, interior and engine is a challenge. I will talk with the Sacramento Chapter and see if they can provide help. Tony
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| theranch | -- 10-19-2009 @ 3:06 PM |
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Tony: I am also an Early Ford V-8 Club member and also a member of the Chico Group. I am retired & live in Bangor,CA not too far from you. MY mamber number is 904067. I am in the process of restoring a 1946 Ford Pickup my self. I too have run into many interesting problems already. I have the engine back in the frame, brakes rebuilt,frame blasted and repainted, transmission taken apart and checked for condition and reinstalled. I am also working on sheet metal from the front to the back. It is a very enjoyable bunch of work. Dan Hunter
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| trjford8 | -- 10-20-2009 @ 7:17 AM |
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Tony and Dan, club member Rick Rawlings in Spokane ,Washington has done a lot of research on the 46-47 pickups. He restored one that was a family heirloom. He's listed in the roster and I'm sure he would be glad to share his knowledge with you.I think his truck has won a Dearborn award for the restoraton.
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| theranch | -- 10-20-2009 @ 6:40 PM |
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I attended the 2006 Western National Meet at Tacoma and I just checked & he was the fellow that received 999 points out of 1000 on that truck. It was truly perfect. Thanks I do believe he can help all of us. Dan This message was edited by theranch on 10-21-09 @ 3:27 PM
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| ole47 | -- 11-14-2009 @ 3:39 PM |
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I have a 47 Pickup, and saw that there was quiite a bit of action on this 1946 topic. So rather than start a new thread I would like to join in on this one. By the way I am a member of the EFV8 National, and a Charter member of Reg. Group 149, since 1997, in both. I have a question that I hope some one here can help me with, and that is the Removal of the Head-Light Switch, from the Dash. I had some welding done on the Truck 2 weeks ago and since then have no Tail or Brake Lights. Some info on my Truck it has all the original Glass date Stamped, and not cloudy. Has Dual Wipers, Dual Mirrors, Sliding Rear window, Ashtray, Dual Horns, Both Sunvisors, Original Interior in very good condition, Dome Lamp, everything works. Its a Canadian Truck, and needs some touch ups, but it could be entered in Rouge Class if I would decide to. The running boards, have been repaired since the pic was taken. It is a real nice tight driving Truck, and for now I am going to keep it that way. Back to my question, sure need help in the removal of this Head-Light Switch, thank you for any and all replies.
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| alanwoodieman | -- 11-17-2009 @ 6:32 AM |
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on the head light switch body there is a sort of push button, pull out the knob and push in this button and the knob will come out-there is a nut that holds the switch to the dash. You may have to wiggle the knob and twist it a little to get it to release
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| alanwoodieman | -- 11-17-2009 @ 6:34 AM |
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forgot to add that on one switch I had to use a very small phillips screw driver and insert it into a hole in the switch to release the knob. My 41 was like this but my 47 had a push button
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| polarspeed | -- 01-10-2010 @ 10:17 PM |
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I have found a 1947 half ton for sale that has been sitting for a year. It was running when it was parked. The engine was rebuilt about 10 years ago with only a few hundred miles on the rebuild. The brakes, starter, generator, transmission and radiator were all rebuilt. It has a 59AB flathead V8 with a 3 spd manual transmission. The body is straight and has the "original" paint but it is an odd sunbleached purple/maroon. There is minimal rust and dents. There were some modifications that were made but were reversed by the previous owner. I am new to old trucks and restoration and want to have this as a project truck to keep it as close to original as my wallet will allow. I would like it to be a daily driver with distances no greater than 15-20 flat miles. I would like to get some advice regarding the suggested value and what the common pitfalls would be with such a truck. I can post a photo, if the forum is interested. Thanks, Steve
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| trjford8 | -- 01-11-2010 @ 6:55 AM |
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Steve, two or three photos would help a lot to determine the value. It would also be good to know about the rust spots. Are they surface rust or rusted through and the location.Also tell us about dents, etc and the condition of the bed. The bed is 50% of the truck, so it's condition is very important.
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| supereal | -- 01-11-2010 @ 7:16 AM |
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While there are "standard" colors for trucks that were ordered to stock dealer's lots, it was also possible to order trucks from the factory in "non standard" colors, often the trademark shade of the buyer. This is still true today. We have had to plow through several coats of paint on some trucks, only to get to bare metal without matching the chip charts. Due to the poor economy, many fleets, such as state and municipal, have abandoned this extra cost option in favor of saving money.
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| polarspeed | -- 01-11-2010 @ 10:15 AM |
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I have posted pictures on a website. This truck has been outside for most of its life and I am unsure about the bed. It feels solid with most of the rust in the corners and with the stake pockets. The cab is solid with the most rust on the passenger floor. There is some body filler on the driver front fender hiding something curious. The rear fenders are dented but straight with rust at the bottom rear that has made it very irregular with some metal that is split and bent. I appreciate all of your input. Thanks. The website is: http://gallery.me.com/mcwicki#100008 This message was edited by polarspeed on 1-11-10 @ 10:16 AM
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| trjford8 | -- 01-11-2010 @ 7:02 PM |
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Steve, it's not a bad looking old truck. I would check the cab corners(look in the corners behind the seat) to see if there is any filler or rust out. This is a common area for rust problems. Also check the back bottom of the cab as this is another area prone to rust. What is the asking price of the truck? Rust out in the stake pockets is common as the drains plugged up and held water. Rust out on the passenger floor is usually caused by a leaky heater core or leaky windshield gasket. This message was edited by trjford8 on 1-11-10 @ 7:05 PM
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| polarspeed | -- 01-11-2010 @ 8:00 PM |
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I have checked the corners and they are solid. The owner is asking $6500. The estimates that I have gotten so far have been between 4500-6500. What do you think? Thanks, Steve
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