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EFV-8 Club Forum / General Mercury Discussion / 52 Merc. Holley

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Discussion Topic: 52 Merc. Holley -- page: 1 2 3 4

37RAGTOPMAN

04-19-2020 @ 10:42 AM

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HI
was wondering how it ran before you Tuned it up,???
I suspect the condenser . try the old one,or a made in USA. and see if that make a difference,
I did the same thing and when on the road and applied the throttle it started to miss BAD
found out the new Chinese TAIWAN made condenser was at fault after going over the fuel system
it had maybe 20 miles on it, so who would suspect it,
I replace the condenser with a NOS Delco, on my 57CHEV,
LET HEAR how you made OUT,,,,,,,, 37Ragtopman

TomO

04-19-2020 @ 7:52 AM

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Mike, I'll start up my Lincoln today and refresh my memory about the flow of fuel. The carb on it is similar to your Merc carb, just a lot more complicated.

It will not be a mist until it passes the venturi and is mixed with air. Here is a link to the Holley 1901 manual for the carb on your car.

http://www.tocmp.com/manuals/Carbs/Holley/H1901-1952/MCarbHoll19011952.html

Tom

mikemerc

04-19-2020 @ 6:24 AM

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Tom
When looking down the carb ,the gas is not dripping it’s much much more than a drip. Not in a mist by a long shot. I will check the distributor you and carcrazy have suggested. Also the mystery oil. Thanks mike

TomO

04-18-2020 @ 8:14 AM

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I should have been more specific about the fuel dripping. These carburetors sometimes develop a leak from the fuel bowl due to cracks in the bowl, look for fuel on the bottom of the bowl. The floats on the teapot are hard to set and you could have fuel dripping from the top cover. Fuel coming out of the discharge tubes at engine speed above idle are normal, this is the main fuel supply.

Check your spark plugs against this chart to determine if you have a fuel problem.

http://www.verrill.com/moto/sellingguide/sparkplugs/plugcolorchart.htm

The stumble could be caused by the distributor advance. Disconnect the and plug the vacuum hose to the vacuum advance and check the timing. If initial timing is correct, slowly increase the engine while watching the timing, it should advance evenly as you increase the engine speed. If it passes this test repeat the advance test with the vacuum advance connected.

Did you do the MMO procedure? dribble some down with the engine at a fast idle until the engine smooths out, then dump enough to kill the engine. Let it sit overnight and then check to see if it is better.

Tom

mikemerc

04-17-2020 @ 2:37 PM

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Thanks carcrazy,I’ll give that a try Mike

carcrazy

04-17-2020 @ 1:52 PM

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Fuel is supposed to flow into the air stream as it passes through the venturi region of a carburetor. This is the basic principle upon which all carburetion systems work. With carburetors that have a fixed venturi there are several systems that work together to provide the correct amount of fuel for each operating condition. The idle system provides the correct air/fuel (A/F) ratio for idle speed. The transition system provides the correct A/F ratio for speeds between idle and about 1,500 RPM when the main system takes over and fuel begins to flow through the venturis. It is normal for you to see fuel flowing from the venturis once the engine speed gets to 1,500 RPM or so.

To solve your problem, look into the ignition system. An old rule of thumb when diagnosing engine running problems on a spark ignition engine is that 10% of the time its a fuel problem and 90% of the time it is an ignition problem. I suspect that you have something causing weak spark at the higher engine speeds. The dwell may be incorrect at the speed where the problem occurs or the contact breaker points spring tension may not be sufficient allowing point bounce or other problems.

mikemerc

04-17-2020 @ 11:31 AM

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Any ideas on why gas would drip down from upper bowl or possibly out of the nozzle tubes that are connected to throttle plates. It looks more like out of those tubes than up above. It appears that it doesn’t drip at an idle,and it runs really good at idle.

mikemerc

04-17-2020 @ 11:15 AM

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Barney,
It doesn’t affect any different from being in park at high revs or out on the road at 40-60 mph. It has been mentioned about weak valve springs ,but a buddy did a few checks with a vacuum gauge and didn’t see anything during his test.
I think I found the problem,it’s in the carb . Too much gas. Gas is dripping gas down into the throats when throttle above an idle and on up. And yes , I tried to get it tested for the virus but they couldn’t get those Q tips past the air breather!

mikemerc

04-17-2020 @ 10:15 AM

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O.K. Turns out that I hadn’t looked down the throats of the carb deep enough to see that a good amount of gas was dribbling down into the engine with the throttle at 1/4 open .More throttle Above 1/4 the worse it ran. I’m looking into a rebuild kit from Daytona parts. Thanks to all you guys who helped out .Thanks to TomO Who gave me the idea to check a little harder for the drips down into the carb. Feel like a dope for not doing it a while ago. Does the rebuild require special tools or can you get away with regular tools .the manual makes it look pretty intense. Thanks to all ,hope I can return the favor one day. Mike

Barney

04-17-2020 @ 7:44 AM

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Hi Mike,
Here's my 2-cents' worth (maybe only a penny's worth). Let's assume the stumbling starts to rear it's ugly head at 2500 RPM. I certainly don't disagree that it appears to be a fuel starvation issue, or an ignition issue. But I would ask: Does this issue occur during a no-load condition the same as it does during a heavy-load condition? Obviously, significantly more fuel is required to maintain 2500 RPM at heavy-load vs. no-load. If the engine starts to stumble at 2500 under either of the aforementioned conditions I'd say it's safe to declare fuel is not the issue. Of course, it could still be an ignition issue. And I know you don't want to hear this, and I hope I'm wrong, but have you thought that you may have a couple, or a few, weak valve springs?
Good luck.
Barney
PS Has your machine been tested for the C-19 virus?

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