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Discussion Topic:
1937 Ford 2 Bolt Coil 3 Bolt Distributor
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Oldad |
08-06-2012 @ 8:05 PM
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New Member
Posts: 111
Joined: May 2012
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I posted request for advice on repairing a crack in the top of the coil. I took the advice of the experienced early ford gurus and contacted Skip Haney. his advice was to rebuild the coil in a good case. While I was at it I also arranged for Skip to redo the dissy. I opted to remove the distributor without pulling the radiator. It took several hours. Removed the fan, covered the radiator with cardboard,etc. I have a decent set of tools, mostly Snap-On, and a lift to work from the bottom as well as the top. Perhaps there is an easier way. Would appreciate suggestions. The distributor has openings for four bolts but only three were installed. I figured the last guy had left one out but after I got the dissy out I saw there were only three holes. Do I have a rare beast or did Henry make the 37's that way?
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supereal |
08-07-2012 @ 10:45 AM
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Senior
Posts: 6819
Joined: Oct 2009
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The distributor mounts with three bolts. The fourth hole is a vacuum passage that mates with a rubber grommet on the timing gear cover. It is a good idea to replace that, as usually it has lost its ability to seal. C&G (800/266-0470) sells it as a part of a distributor gasket set, which you will need, anyway, for the mounting gskey, and coil and caps. The item for your '37 is 18-12104,V8 While getting at the distributor and its bolts is an awkward job, you don't have to remove the radiator. When you reinstall it, be sure that the driving tang matches the groove in the timing gear before you cinch it down. The distributor should fall into place, and the mounting bolts should be able to be started in all holes by hand. If not done properly, you can destroy the distributor body.
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Oldad |
08-07-2012 @ 8:00 PM
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New Member
Posts: 111
Joined: May 2012
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Thanks Super! You were absolutely correct in your advice to replace the coil because of the cracked case. When I removed the coil I could see a big crack in the back in addition to the hairline crack in the top. Sharing your knowledge and experience is a big help to those of us who wrench as a hobby.
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supereal |
08-08-2012 @ 11:56 AM
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Senior
Posts: 6819
Joined: Oct 2009
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Glad to help. Enjoy the hobby. As often said "no one lives long enough to make all the mistakes". I've made a whole lot of them, and try to share the results!
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TomO |
08-09-2012 @ 9:07 AM
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Senior
Posts: 7243
Joined: Oct 2009
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The fourth hole on the 37-41 distributor is not used. I read somewhere that it was used as an alignment point for a timing fixture. The vacuum connection is at the top of the distributor. The 42-48 distributor has the vacuum port that Supereal referenced. The timing cover on the 32-41 cars do not have provisions for the vacuum port. This was changed in 1942 to make it easier to service the distributor.
Tom
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ken ct. |
12-01-2012 @ 12:53 PM
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Senior
Posts: 1513
Joined: Jan 2010
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Thank you Tom,supreal was wrong on that one. Hope the guy dosen't go looking for the rubber grommet on a helmet dist. ken ct.
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supereal |
12-01-2012 @ 8:40 PM
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Senior
Posts: 6819
Joined: Oct 2009
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Yeah, I was off the mark on that one, Ken. Doggone "golden years", anyway. After sixty years in the business, they begin to look all alike. It is always helpful to have a photo or two.
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t2491ner |
01-09-2013 @ 8:55 AM
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Member
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Joined: Jan 2013
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I also have a 1937 V8..pickup truck. I recognize all the things you have talked about. My problem... I can not remove the distr caps, the portion that goes into the distr housing. The caps seem pressed in?? Also, the drive portion (contains points, rotor,etc) will not come out of the distr housing. Nothing to grab on to?? Any advice??
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ford38v8 |
01-09-2013 @ 9:15 AM
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Senior
Posts: 2734
Joined: Oct 2009
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The distributor caps can expand over the years, so much so that NOS caps may need to be filed down a bit just to fit into the distributor housing. No telling what the previous owner of your pickup did in installing the caps either. I assume you have removed the distributor and have it on your bench, so just work the caps gently, they will come off. Once the caps are off, you will see a keeper ring inside that holds the guts in the distributor. Remove the ring and all will slide out the back side.
Alan
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t2491ner |
01-09-2013 @ 3:23 PM
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Member
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Joined: Jan 2013
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Thanks for the input Mr 38V8. I did make a tool out of coat hanger wire (4 pieces) that went into the the 4 small holes around the cap. I joined them at the center with a piece of wood and was able to pull the caps out. Not so lucky with the center guts... yet.
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