| Oldad | -- 08-06-2012 @ 8:05 PM |
|
I posted request for advice on repairing a crack in the top of the coil. I took the advice of the experienced early ford gurus and contacted Skip Haney. his advice was to rebuild the coil in a good case. While I was at it I also arranged for Skip to redo the dissy. I opted to remove the distributor without pulling the radiator. It took several hours. Removed the fan, covered the radiator with cardboard,etc. I have a decent set of tools, mostly Snap-On, and a lift to work from the bottom as well as the top. Perhaps there is an easier way. Would appreciate suggestions. The distributor has openings for four bolts but only three were installed. I figured the last guy had left one out but after I got the dissy out I saw there were only three holes. Do I have a rare beast or did Henry make the 37's that way?
|
|
| supereal | -- 08-07-2012 @ 10:45 AM |
|
The distributor mounts with three bolts. The fourth hole is a vacuum passage that mates with a rubber grommet on the timing gear cover. It is a good idea to replace that, as usually it has lost its ability to seal. C&G (800/266-0470) sells it as a part of a distributor gasket set, which you will need, anyway, for the mounting gskey, and coil and caps. The item for your '37 is 18-12104,V8 While getting at the distributor and its bolts is an awkward job, you don't have to remove the radiator. When you reinstall it, be sure that the driving tang matches the groove in the timing gear before you cinch it down. The distributor should fall into place, and the mounting bolts should be able to be started in all holes by hand. If not done properly, you can destroy the distributor body.
|
|
| Oldad | -- 08-07-2012 @ 8:00 PM |
|
Thanks Super! You were absolutely correct in your advice to replace the coil because of the cracked case. When I removed the coil I could see a big crack in the back in addition to the hairline crack in the top. Sharing your knowledge and experience is a big help to those of us who wrench as a hobby.
|
|
| supereal | -- 08-08-2012 @ 11:56 AM |
|
Glad to help. Enjoy the hobby. As often said "no one lives long enough to make all the mistakes". I've made a whole lot of them, and try to share the results!
|
|
| TomO | -- 08-09-2012 @ 9:07 AM |
|
The fourth hole on the 37-41 distributor is not used. I read somewhere that it was used as an alignment point for a timing fixture. The vacuum connection is at the top of the distributor. The 42-48 distributor has the vacuum port that Supereal referenced. The timing cover on the 32-41 cars do not have provisions for the vacuum port. This was changed in 1942 to make it easier to service the distributor. Tom
|
|
| ken ct. | -- 12-01-2012 @ 12:53 PM |
|
Thank you Tom,supreal was wrong on that one. Hope the guy dosen't go looking for the rubber grommet on a helmet dist. ken ct.
|
|
| supereal | -- 12-01-2012 @ 8:40 PM |
|
Yeah, I was off the mark on that one, Ken. Doggone "golden years", anyway. After sixty years in the business, they begin to look all alike. It is always helpful to have a photo or two.
|
|
| t2491ner | -- 01-09-2013 @ 8:55 AM |
|
I also have a 1937 V8..pickup truck. I recognize all the things you have talked about. My problem... I can not remove the distr caps, the portion that goes into the distr housing. The caps seem pressed in?? Also, the drive portion (contains points, rotor,etc) will not come out of the distr housing. Nothing to grab on to?? Any advice??
|
|
| ford38v8 | -- 01-09-2013 @ 9:15 AM |
|
The distributor caps can expand over the years, so much so that NOS caps may need to be filed down a bit just to fit into the distributor housing. No telling what the previous owner of your pickup did in installing the caps either. I assume you have removed the distributor and have it on your bench, so just work the caps gently, they will come off. Once the caps are off, you will see a keeper ring inside that holds the guts in the distributor. Remove the ring and all will slide out the back side. Alan
|
|
| t2491ner | -- 01-09-2013 @ 3:23 PM |
|
Thanks for the input Mr 38V8. I did make a tool out of coat hanger wire (4 pieces) that went into the the 4 small holes around the cap. I joined them at the center with a piece of wood and was able to pull the caps out. Not so lucky with the center guts... yet.
|
|
| ken ct. | -- 01-09-2013 @ 5:30 PM |
|
Remove the screw an index plate,clamp the tounge of the dist in a vice on 1 end of the jaws an place a slightly smaller or same size screw onthe othet end of the vice jaws so the jaws will tighten up fairly paralell on the dist tounge. Carefully tap all around on the alum. housingand it will come out eventually a little at a time. Spray penitrating fluid around the outer seam and inside of the cast iron and alum. I gotten many out like this,once in a while i break the housing dong it this way but not many compared to how many ive got out. Ken ct.
|
|
| TomO | -- 01-10-2013 @ 8:03 AM |
|
You do not have to remove the snap ring in order to remove the guts of the distributor. I remove the timing screw on the side of the distributor and then using my thumbs, press on the point plate to remove the innards. If that doesn't work, I resort to using a light hammer and penetrating oil. Kens method works well, but I do the opposite. I set the distributor on the vice opened just enough to give clearance to the guts and then use a brass rod on the internal casting and tap gently on the rod with a light ball peen hammer, alternating the sides. I have never broken a housing using this method, but then I make sure that the force used is not enough to damage the housing. Tom
|
|
| ken ct. | -- 05-17-2013 @ 5:50 PM |
|
It will help much if you remove the vacume piston and the timming screw and plate. THEN clamp the tounge of the dist shaft in a vice [on the side of the jaws] and place a 8x32 screw in the oposite end of the jaws it will keep the jaws parralell when clamped down on the toung. soak inside and outside of the cast iron so it will slide out easier and lightly hammer all the way around the alum. housing it will start to come out. ken ct. Got many out in this manner. ken ct.
|
|
| TomO | -- 05-19-2013 @ 2:42 AM |
|
It is not necessary to remove the snap ring in order to remove the inner workings from the case. Just remove the bolt that hold the timing scale and then remove the vacuum brake. The inner works will come out then. They may take a little force to remove it. I use a brass rod and tap on the casting on alternate sides. Tom
|
|
| ken ct. | -- 03-04-2015 @ 10:54 PM |
|
TomO,your way will work BUT you take a big chance of breaking off part of the thin top where the cir-clip goes or closeing it up somewhat so the clip will not seat properly after. ken ct. omo
|
|
| TomO | -- 03-05-2015 @ 7:20 AM |
|
Ken, that is why I use a brass rod and only tap it to remove it. A steel punch is more likely to damage the casting. The brass rod is much softer than the casting and I have never damaged one this way. Tom
|
|
| ken ct. | -- 03-05-2015 @ 2:57 PM |
|
The brass may be softer, but cast iron chips very easly and its very thin up there over where the clip rides in the groove. If you saw some of the damage up there from someone trying to remove the guts that way you wouldn't use that method either.Sorry if I offended you by this but OMO its a no no. ken ct.
|
|
| TomO | -- 03-06-2015 @ 6:39 AM |
|
Ken, no offense taken. I reread the complete post and I have no problems with the way that you remove the guts. It works for you. The key to working with these parts is to be gentle as the castings are fragile. Tom
|
|
| ken ct. | -- 03-06-2015 @ 7:01 AM |
|
I just don't like tapping on that thin cast iron in that area. Just my way of doing things I guess,if your way works for you go for it buddy. ken ct.
|
|
| EFV-8 Club Forum : | https://www.earlyfordv8.org/forum |
| Topic: | https://www.earlyfordv8.org/forum/viewmessages.cfm?Forum=15&Topic=5032 |