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Discussion Topic:
1937 Ford 2 Bolt Coil 3 Bolt Distributor
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ken ct. |
01-09-2013 @ 5:30 PM
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Senior
Posts: 1513
Joined: Jan 2010
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Remove the screw an index plate,clamp the tounge of the dist in a vice on 1 end of the jaws an place a slightly smaller or same size screw onthe othet end of the vice jaws so the jaws will tighten up fairly paralell on the dist tounge. Carefully tap all around on the alum. housingand it will come out eventually a little at a time. Spray penitrating fluid around the outer seam and inside of the cast iron and alum. I gotten many out like this,once in a while i break the housing dong it this way but not many compared to how many ive got out. Ken ct.
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TomO |
01-10-2013 @ 8:03 AM
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Senior
Posts: 7243
Joined: Oct 2009
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You do not have to remove the snap ring in order to remove the guts of the distributor. I remove the timing screw on the side of the distributor and then using my thumbs, press on the point plate to remove the innards. If that doesn't work, I resort to using a light hammer and penetrating oil. Kens method works well, but I do the opposite. I set the distributor on the vice opened just enough to give clearance to the guts and then use a brass rod on the internal casting and tap gently on the rod with a light ball peen hammer, alternating the sides. I have never broken a housing using this method, but then I make sure that the force used is not enough to damage the housing.
Tom
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ken ct. |
05-17-2013 @ 5:50 PM
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Senior
Posts: 1513
Joined: Jan 2010
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It will help much if you remove the vacume piston and the timming screw and plate. THEN clamp the tounge of the dist shaft in a vice [on the side of the jaws] and place a 8x32 screw in the oposite end of the jaws it will keep the jaws parralell when clamped down on the toung. soak inside and outside of the cast iron so it will slide out easier and lightly hammer all the way around the alum. housing it will start to come out. ken ct. Got many out in this manner. ken ct.
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TomO |
05-19-2013 @ 2:42 AM
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Senior
Posts: 7243
Joined: Oct 2009
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It is not necessary to remove the snap ring in order to remove the inner workings from the case. Just remove the bolt that hold the timing scale and then remove the vacuum brake. The inner works will come out then. They may take a little force to remove it. I use a brass rod and tap on the casting on alternate sides.
Tom
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ken ct. |
03-04-2015 @ 10:54 PM
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Senior
Posts: 1513
Joined: Jan 2010
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TomO,your way will work BUT you take a big chance of breaking off part of the thin top where the cir-clip goes or closeing it up somewhat so the clip will not seat properly after. ken ct. omo
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TomO |
03-05-2015 @ 7:20 AM
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Senior
Posts: 7243
Joined: Oct 2009
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Ken, that is why I use a brass rod and only tap it to remove it. A steel punch is more likely to damage the casting. The brass rod is much softer than the casting and I have never damaged one this way.
Tom
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ken ct. |
03-05-2015 @ 2:57 PM
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Senior
Posts: 1513
Joined: Jan 2010
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The brass may be softer, but cast iron chips very easly and its very thin up there over where the clip rides in the groove. If you saw some of the damage up there from someone trying to remove the guts that way you wouldn't use that method either.Sorry if I offended you by this but OMO its a no no. ken ct.
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TomO |
03-06-2015 @ 6:39 AM
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Senior
Posts: 7243
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Ken, no offense taken. I reread the complete post and I have no problems with the way that you remove the guts. It works for you. The key to working with these parts is to be gentle as the castings are fragile.
Tom
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ken ct. |
03-06-2015 @ 7:01 AM
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Senior
Posts: 1513
Joined: Jan 2010
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I just don't like tapping on that thin cast iron in that area. Just my way of doing things I guess,if your way works for you go for it buddy. ken ct.
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