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EFV-8 Club Forum / 1940 Ford Discussion / No start after voltage regulator replacement

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Posted By Discussion Topic: No start after voltage regulator replacement -- page: 1 2     2manybikes 12-05-2022 @ 9:05 AM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 39 Joined: Sep 2021 Had to go out of town for most of this week. I'll post more on it when I get back and can check a few things. 37RAGTOPMAN 12-05-2022 @ 7:28 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 1940 Joined: Oct 2009 If you think you have a gas problem, use a little spray ether and if it starts, you found what you have to work on a gas problem is the gas cap a original or a china one, it has to be a vented cap, make sure you have gas in the tank, you can blow out the fuel line disconnect on both ends and blow it out, my be restricted, by rust ot dirt, and view the whole fuel line to make sure it is not kinked or not rusted, or has any holes in it, you can use a vacuum hand held pump, plug one end and see if it wil hold vacuum, this will tell you there is no leaks, in the line, hope this helpd 37Ragtopman, Maine will be interesting to what you find is the starting problem. TomO 12-03-2022 @ 9:49 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 7243 Joined: Oct 2009 Where did you connect the vacuum pump? If it was at the output of the flex line, the flex line is suspect. Can you post a photo with the vacuum pump connected? Tom 2manybikes 12-02-2022 @ 5:21 PM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 39 Joined: Sep 2021 The gas cap was the first thing I tried! Just forgot to mention it. I'll take a look at the gasket and washer you mentioned tomorrow. Thanks a lot for your help. I may not get to drive it much but I sure have learned a lot about it! carcrazy 12-02-2022 @ 4:53 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 1584 Joined: Oct 2009 Vent to fuel tank may be plugged creating a vacuum in the tank preventing fuel from flowing to pump. Remove gas cap and attempt to start car. If the bolt on top of fuel pump is tight and the pump still does not deliver fuel to carb, the gasket between the cover and the pump may be leaking. You can check for this by removing the cover and checking the sealing gasket for integrity. If the gasket shows signs of leaking, you can replace it with a new gasket. If you do not have another gasket, you can either make one out of gasket material or seal the existing gasket by applying a light coating of Permatex #2 sealant to both sides. Is there a washer under the bolt that retains the top cover to the pump body? If not, place a flat surfaced washer there for a seal. If your pump still will not deliver fuel, there is an internal problem with the pump. Either one of the check valves has failed or fallen out of place or the diaphragm has failed. You can remove and disassemble the pump to determine the cause of the problem and take appropriate action. 2manybikes 12-02-2022 @ 2:27 PM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 39 Joined: Sep 2021 40. Already tightened the nut on top of the fuel pump and the tank is full. carcrazy 12-02-2022 @ 2:03 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 1584 Joined: Oct 2009 What year vehicle are you working on? Does the fuel tank have enough gas in it? If the small bolt on the top of the fuel pump is loose, a vacuum leak will occur and the engine won't get fuel. You may still have vacuum leaks in the fuel line upstream of the pump with no fuel leaks being apparent. If you have vacuum leaks in this line, the pump will not pull fuel up to the engine from the tank. Try tightening the bolt on top of the fuel pump which holds the cover to the body of the pump. If this connection is not airtight, the pump will not deliver fuel to the carburetor. 2manybikes 12-02-2022 @ 1:08 PM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 39 Joined: Sep 2021 Well, this just gets stranger. I figured out today its not getting gas. And yes, I drove it into the garage before I started on the voltage regulator. I traced the line from the tank to the firewall and found no APPARENT leaks. Most of the screwes that hold the fuel pump together were at least 1/2 turn loose. So was the nut at the top. I checked all the rest of the fuel line fittings under the hood as well. I pulled a vacuum until fuel started to fill the clear hose I used. With about a 6" collum of fuel I could see numerous air bubbles as the vacuum lost its grip and the fuel ran back into the fuel line. Should I take the fuel pump off next? 37RAGTOPMAN 11-25-2022 @ 3:09 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 1940 Joined: Oct 2009 2MANYBIKES for some reason you lost voltage to your ignition switch, there has to be a broken wire or loose connection, try running a jumper wire directly from the battery terminal to the coil, make up a jumper wire, with alligator clips, then crank the motor over and see if it starts, if it does start checking your circuit from the STARTER solinoid, to the ignition switch, this is were the ignition switch should pick up voltage, CHECK ALL your fuses, hope this helps 37Ragtopman 2manybikes 11-25-2022 @ 7:30 AM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 39 Joined: Sep 2021 Thanks for your reply. Thats over my head but I'll take it to my brothers and have him check it. I too purchased one of the "bright blue" voltage regulators. I called the supplier because to me even the mounts looked different and I could not figure out how the grommets were going to work. The sales person assured me this was what I needed. Well, no slots for the grommets. The beautiful "antique" phillips head screws that hold the bright blue cover on must have taken a while to source. Yes, I can paint the cover, find replacement slotted screws to hold the cover on and even grind the edge off the mounting ears so I can use the grommets. I could also have used two of the ears to mount a regulator off a tractor which would have done the same thing. Trying to preserve the originality of antiques can be a real PITA some times! This message was edited by 2manybikes on 11-25-22 @ 3:27 PM

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