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EFV-8 Club Forum / 1940 Ford Discussion / No start after voltage regulator replacement

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Discussion Topic: No start after voltage regulator replacement -- page: 1 2

2manybikes

11-24-2022 @ 3:22 PM

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Stock 6V system. I followed the instructions on polarization as well. Took pics before so I know its hooked up right. Is there a main fuse/relay that I can check? Guess its a good thing it didnt start this morning, it was such a nice day I might not have come back home in time to finish Thanksgiving dinner!

carcrazy

11-24-2022 @ 7:49 PM

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It is possible that the cutout switch within the regulator is staying closed when the engine is tuned off. This condition could drain the battery overnight. I had previously purchased a new regulator, with a blue cover, that exhibited this condition.

You can either open up the regulator to adjust the cutout points so the regulator functions properly or take it along with your generator to a specialist to correct the problem.

kubes40

11-25-2022 @ 5:49 AM

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No start you say? Does the engine turn over? If so, does it turn over as it normally did? What is the voltage at the battery?

Mike "Kube" Kubarth

2manybikes

11-25-2022 @ 7:10 AM

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6.52 V at the battery and the motor spins freely just like it did before the regulator replacement. Just wont start. not even a pop.

2manybikes

11-25-2022 @ 7:30 AM

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Thanks for your reply. Thats over my head but I'll take it to my brothers and have him check it. I too purchased one of the "bright blue" voltage regulators. I called the supplier because to me even the mounts looked different and I could not figure out how the grommets were going to work. The sales person assured me this was what I needed. Well, no slots for the grommets. The beautiful "antique" phillips head screws that hold the bright blue cover on must have taken a while to source. Yes, I can paint the cover, find replacement slotted screws to hold the cover on and even grind the edge off the mounting ears so I can use the grommets. I could also have used two of the ears to mount a regulator off a tractor which would have done the same thing. Trying to preserve the originality of antiques can be a real PITA some times!

This message was edited by 2manybikes on 11-25-22 @ 3:27 PM

37RAGTOPMAN

11-25-2022 @ 3:09 PM

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2MANYBIKES
for some reason you lost voltage to your ignition switch, there has to be a broken wire or loose connection,
try running a jumper wire directly from the battery terminal to the coil, make up a jumper wire, with alligator clips,
then crank the motor over and see if it starts,
if it does start checking your circuit from the STARTER solinoid, to the ignition switch, this is were the ignition switch should pick up voltage,
CHECK ALL your fuses,
hope this helps 37Ragtopman

2manybikes

12-02-2022 @ 1:08 PM

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Well, this just gets stranger. I figured out today its not getting gas. And yes, I drove it into the garage before I started on the voltage regulator. I traced the line from the tank to the firewall and found no APPARENT leaks. Most of the screwes that hold the fuel pump together were at least 1/2 turn loose. So was the nut at the top. I checked all the rest of the fuel line fittings under the hood as well. I pulled a vacuum until fuel started to fill the clear hose I used. With about a 6" collum of fuel I could see numerous air bubbles as the vacuum lost its grip and the fuel ran back into the fuel line. Should I take the fuel pump off next?

carcrazy

12-02-2022 @ 2:03 PM

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What year vehicle are you working on? Does the fuel tank have enough gas in it?
If the small bolt on the top of the fuel pump is loose, a vacuum leak will occur and the engine won't get fuel. You may still have vacuum leaks in the fuel line upstream of the pump with no fuel leaks being apparent. If you have vacuum leaks in this line, the pump will not pull fuel up to the engine from the tank.

Try tightening the bolt on top of the fuel pump which holds the cover to the body of the pump. If this connection is not airtight, the pump will not deliver fuel to the carburetor.

2manybikes

12-02-2022 @ 2:27 PM

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40. Already tightened the nut on top of the fuel pump and the tank is full.

carcrazy

12-02-2022 @ 4:53 PM

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Vent to fuel tank may be plugged creating a vacuum in the tank preventing fuel from flowing to pump. Remove gas cap and attempt to start car.

If the bolt on top of fuel pump is tight and the pump still does not deliver fuel to carb, the gasket between the cover and the pump may be leaking. You can check for this by removing the cover and checking the sealing gasket for integrity. If the gasket shows signs of leaking, you can replace it with a new gasket. If you do not have another gasket, you can either make one out of gasket material or seal the existing gasket by applying a light coating of Permatex #2 sealant to both sides. Is there a washer under the bolt that retains the top cover to the pump body? If not, place a flat surfaced washer there for a seal.

If your pump still will not deliver fuel, there is an internal problem with the pump. Either one of the check valves has failed or fallen out of place or the diaphragm has failed. You can remove and disassemble the pump to determine the cause of the problem and take appropriate action.

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