LOGIN
  • Post to the EFV-8 Forum
  • Post Classified Ads
  • Shop the Online Store
User Login

Not Registered Yet? Click Here to Sign Up!



(Forgot your Password?)
Remember me on this computer

Not registered yet?
REGISTER NOW!

Back to Home Page Show Forum Rules

Early Ford V-8 Club Forum

FORUM RULES: Users agree to these Rules when using Forum.

The site administrator reserves the right to change the terms and conditions of the user agreement without prior notice to the user. It is the responsibility of the user to regularly review the terms of this agreement.

The user agrees to the following terms:

  1. All information that you provide to us for your membership is correct.
  2. You will not use your membership to spam, harrass, or exploit other members in any way.
  3. Vulgar, Abusive, Racist and Sexist Language will not be tolerated.
  4. Commercial-type sales postings will not be allowed.
  5. No mass posting or flooding of the boards is allowed.
  6. No Advertising of parts or cars; no Ebay or business/commercial ads (please use the "Classified" for ads Wanted or For Sale).
  7. VIEWING MULTIPLE TOPICS ON SCREEN: You can choose to see more than 10 Topics at a time ... Log In and choose "Preferences" from the top bar on the Forum page. Scroll down and Change the "Default Topics Returned" parameter to 25 or 50, and save the changes. Since this setting is stored in your browser 'cookies' (if enabled), it seems to use that stored value even if you are not logged in. So, if you use a PC that you haven't logged into the forum from, the setting still seem to remain at the default.
  8. EXTERNAL PHOTO LINKS ON FORUM: You can still use external photo links in your posts on the new forum. They follow the rules of any link in that they have to have the URL link qualified down to the full image file name (example: .jpg). The links will open in a new browser window, the same as an uploaded image attached to a post. Since an image attachment to any post does not display inline with the post, the results are the same. You can use multiple external links within a post. This link is from photos on a site from Don Clink's 'Deuce@75' albums:

    http://donclink.com/deuce_75_1/images/dscn2950.jpg

    Using links from photo sites such as Photobucket can help in "size" issue with uploaded attachment files. For best viewing in web browsers, photos should be around the 800x600 pixel range, and probably not more than 1024x768. Most cameras today store HUGE jpg image files, as the default settings are in the 7, 8, 10, and 12Mb image sizes. The image files that are then attached are very large, and the browser can't display the full image size without using the scroll bars. Use the re-sizing functions of your photo editing software to reduce the image to 800x600, which reduces the file sixe and the image load time in the browser. Don uses Google's free Picassa3 software, which is an excellent photo management product. All of the photo albums of the Deuce, Grand National, and Auburn that are links on the NORG site were built using Picassa's web creation functions. And it's free? (THANKS to Don Clink for the info!)
  9. HOW DO I SHOW MY EMAIL ADDRESS ALONG WITH MY USERNAME? You can LogIn on the Forum, and select PREFERENCES. On this page Members can add optional information such as their City,State, Country; Occupation; Hobbies: list a Homepage; list AOL Instant Messanger Handle; Signature; "Make Email Address viewable to others;" and even change the number of Default Topics shown on a page. WHEN others click on your profile, they will see this information.

EFV-8 Club Forum / 1940 Ford Discussion / “40” H/W 40 hot water switch

   Reply to this DiscussionReply to Discussion | Start new discussionNew Discussion << previous || next >> 
Posted By Discussion Topic: “40” H/W 40 hot water switch -- page: 1 2

Printer-friendly Version  send this discussion to a friend  new posts last

thunder road
04-04-2018 @ 10:11 AM
Member
Posts: 212
Joined: Dec 2016
          
The switch on the right is a 39-40 Ford NOS hot water heater switch, with its original box. Above it is a 1940 reproduction knob along with a reproduction 39-40 hot water heater wire harness. The picture on the left shows an NOS 1941 thru 1948 hot water heater switch. Above it is a 1939 reproduction knob, along with 1941 thru 1948 reproduction hot water heater wire harness. Ford used the company ARK-LES made in USA to provide their switch’s. The 41 thru 48 Ark- Les switch was a big improvement over the 39-40 switch. They used one heavy resistor on the 41-48 switch, and they positioned it in the center of the switch, where it is very protected from being damaged. On the 39-40 switch they used two lighter duty resistors positioned at the outer edge's and they were more susceptible to damaged. Never run the switches on low, as this produces more resistance and will make the switch hot. Larry Caplin purchased the molds to reproduce the 1940 hot water heater knobs from Tom Cherry Jr. and then, Larry went on to have the 1939 knob molds made and" was" also re-producing the 1939 knob. At the moment he has about a dozen 1939 re-production knobs left to sell, and no more 1940 re-production knobs. Since he has to make a run of about 350 knobs each run, he will not be re-producing any more .I hope Bob Drake buys the molds and keeps it going. Larry can still supply you with either the 39-40 or the 41 -48 reproduction wiring harness. If you have a good genuine 1941- thru 1948 Ark-Les switch , you can easily pull the knob together with the brass collar straight off of it, and replace it with a 1939 or 1940 reproduction knob if you are also lucky enough to have a good correct 39-40 chrome bezel, just use the 1941- 1948 slide on terminal wire harness you are good to go. No one will know unless they crawl up under your dash. As time goes on and these correct electrical switches become impossible to find I believe the judges should be more lenient on this part, as no one wants to burn their car down.

Domenic

This message was edited by thunder road on 4-4-18 @ 5:45 PM

TomO
04-05-2018 @ 6:42 AM
Senior
Posts: 7238
Joined: Oct 2009
          
The 41-48 heater switches are not identical. The 41 and maybe the 42 have screw terminals and the knob is smaller than the 46-48 switch with the slip on terminals. The 41 is also a different color than the 46-48 switch.. I do not have any 41 heater switches left or I would take a photo. The only photo thta I have is too blurry to show the details.

The Judging Standards Committee makes the decisions on what should be a point deduction. IMHO because the heater is an accessory and not necessary to the operation of the car, an incorrect switch or knob should still require a point deduction.

Tom

kubes40
04-05-2018 @ 3:42 PM
Senior
Posts: 3357
Joined: Oct 2009
          
Tom, In my experience, an incorrect ANYTHING receives a point deduction.

Mike "Kube" Kubarth

cliftford
04-05-2018 @ 4:22 PM
Senior
Posts: 845
Joined: Jan 2014
          
On my '48 the heater and defrost knobs are clear with red lettering. I'm sure they are not original. Does anyone know what years these were used?

thunder road
04-05-2018 @ 4:35 PM
Member
Posts: 212
Joined: Dec 2016
          
Mike and Tom thanks for the details on this elusive part. On another important note, their were after market switches being produced for the 41-48 fords , besides the original ARK-LES one. On some of these aftermarket ones the knob will not pull out with the brass collar intact, so they will not work to make a recreation of the 39- 40 switch. If the car has the correct 39-40 chrome bezel and 39 or 40 correct reproduction knob, and the only way for a judge to see it's a recreation is by going under the dash then if points are to be deducted they should be minimal in my opinion because it's parsley a safety factor. Do you deduct for safety belts? They are way more noticeable than half of a switch that you have to go under the dash to see the incorrect half?

Domenic

This message was edited by thunder road on 4-5-18 @ 4:36 PM

kubes40
04-05-2018 @ 5:30 PM
Senior
Posts: 3357
Joined: Oct 2009
          
How is a heater switch remotely related to safety?
Are you implying that anything that can't be seen easily should be overlooked?
If I see it and it is incorrect, there's a deduction. Period.
Seat belts and turn signals are allowed on the concourse per the rules of the club.

Just because a part is rare or expensive (usually the same part) does not mean a guy gets a "pass".

Mike "Kube" Kubarth

This message was edited by kubes40 on 4-6-18 @ 6:40 AM

thunder road
04-05-2018 @ 5:50 PM
Member
Posts: 212
Joined: Dec 2016
          
Rare and expensive is not as bad as non existent. Just like the other fellow who could not get his clock fixed ,it would be great if places or people were still around that could rebuild these switches. Dose anyone out their know of anybody that can take these switches apart so new resistors could be installed? If so that would add a lot more good available switches to use, or to market.

Domenic

This message was edited by thunder road on 4-5-18 @ 6:17 PM

kubes40
04-06-2018 @ 6:41 AM
Senior
Posts: 3357
Joined: Oct 2009
          
"non existent" is not an excuse for a "pass" on the concourse either.
ANYTHING can be made at a cost.
The concourse rules are fairly simple... the car is to be restored to the condition it was when it left the factory.
Can't find that elusive part? Too expensive? Oh well...

Mike "Kube" Kubarth

TomO
04-06-2018 @ 6:45 AM
Senior
Posts: 7238
Joined: Oct 2009
          
The resister on the 1939 or 1940 heater switch is usually OK. Most switches fail due to dirty or worn contacts. With a little care, anyone can disassemble the switch and clean the contacts to make it serviceable. If the contacts are dirty or the motor needs repair, the resister will get too hot and fail.

Domenic, the heater switches are still out there. I saw a 1939 heater complete with switch on E-Bay last fall. There was a 1940 heater with the correct switch at a swap meet last fall also. Last Spring there was a 1941 heater switch with the mounting bracket at a Wisconsin swap meet.

If you want to talk unobtainable, try to find correct plastic for the dash board of a 40's Mercury or a lower radiator hose for a 1941 Mercury. A 40 Ford is a piece of cake to restore with original and good reproduction parts compared to any of the Mercurys of the 40s.

I don't see how a heater switch is a safety factor. If it is burning up, you can turn it off, or disconnect it or remove it and still drive the car safely. The place to plead your case is before the Judging Standards Committee.

1940 Ford windup clocks are available in restored to parts clocks, you just have to look for them. I haven't been to Hershey for a long time, but you could probably find a heater switch and a clock there. Turlock, CA is another meet where hard to find parts show up.

Mike, I respect your opinion and the position that you take on originality, my views lean more to have a vehicle that will operate dependably and look correct. If I were judging a 1940 today, I would not deduct for incorrect spark plugs, because they correct ones for a 1940 are only available in a worn out condition and would not let the car run reliably. There are probably other items that I would let pass, depending upon the general condition of the vehicle. Those opinions are different from the Judging Standards, so that is another reason that I do not volunteer to judge anymore.

If I were running the Club, I would reinstate the requirement that all cars on the Concourse complete a tour to show that they are fully operational. I have seen cars pushed from their trailer onto the Concourse and receive Dearborn Awards.

Tom

This message was edited by TomO on 4-6-18 @ 7:16 AM

kubes40
04-06-2018 @ 7:39 AM
Senior
Posts: 3357
Joined: Oct 2009
          
Tom,
With respect, I must disagree with you in regard to plugs. Correct plugs do still become available now and then. A set of NOS sold just last week on eBay. I was unfortunately the second highest bidder at just under $400. I probably should have gone higher but was only looking to add another set to my stock.
And, regardless if the plugs should become 100% unavailable... that simply means a person can't achieve a perfect score - all other things being "perfect".
By your take on this, as more and more parts become unavailable and the cars do not receive a deduction, we will have a set of cars that are NOT properly restored yet still receive (in theory) perfect scores.
There are classes for touring cars...
By the way, correct two rib H10 plugs are VERY available directly from Champion. I was in talks with the company a few years ago about this.
I am 100% against the lowering of standards just so more folks can "win". There is NOTHING in life that makes us equal. Plus, how can a guy feel good about "winning" when he knows full well his vehicle is not correct? Seems akin to cheating.


Mike "Kube" Kubarth

<< previous || next >> 
PAGE: 1 2


NOTE: YOU MUST BE A REGISTERED USER AND BE LOGGED IN TO POST (and reply to) messages in this forum. If you are a first time user, please click the CREATE A NEW ACCOUNT in the masthead above to register and Log In. After that, all you do is LOG IN to enjoy using this site.

DISCLAIMER: The V-8 Club does no independent testing of any of the opinions, thoughts or suggestions presented in the website on the Forum, in the Tech Tips section, or any section. A reader should consider the website to be a forum wherein differing solutions to a particular set of circumstances may be discussed. Ultimately, the selection of an item for an individual's vehicle must be based upon the independent study of the vehicle owner in consultation with people in the hobby and restoration experts.


EFV-8 Club Forum Home | Back to Home Page | Contact the Webmaster

Copyright © 2009 - EFV-8.org
Powered by < CF FORUM > v.2.1