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Posted By Discussion Topic: 37 FORDOR FIRST TIME OWNER WITH LOTS OF QUESTIONS     jadamoon386 02-19-2026 @ 5:20 PM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 10 Joined: Feb 2026 After having had 5 Model A's and one Model T I decided that I wanted to get something that would be a little more drivable on todays modern highways. Last Friday I brought home a 1937 Fordor that had been stored in a climate controlled garage work shop for it's entire life. The car is all original except for the paint and it has absolutely no rust anywhere, even the undercarriage has the original black paint with no rust. It has Engine and frame matching numbers and the 3 owners only drove it 37K miles. The owner that I purchased it from had the car for over 26 years. I would like to know from the Club Members what would be the most practical upgrades that I should do to make this car a daily driver? I have an aircraft Mechanic who retired as a Mechanical Systems Engineer from the Shuttle Program after 36 year so I would consider myself to be a pretty mechanically inclined person who would be doing most all of the work myself. Some of the modifications I'm considering are: 1. New tires, actually just ordered 4 Diamondback Auburn Deluxe All-Season Whitewall Radial Tires and I plan to order some new Radial Tire tubes and new rim strips. 2. Electronic Ignition, I could most defiantly use some help with a recommendation for the best and most reliable. 3. 12 volt conversion, again need some help with recommendations for best conversion. Replace 6v Starter? 4. The car has a new gas tank with an electric fuel pump. I know nothing at all about these flathead 85HP V-8 engines but the previous owner removed the mechanical pump; should I buy a mechanical so I have both electric and mechanical?? 5. Turn Signals, any recommendations for best kit? 6. LED Lights? 7. Duel Exhaust? 8. Glass replacement. The car does need all new glass, any recommendations? I did find an eBay company, Bob's classic Auto Glass? 9. DE sludge the engine? I changed all the fluids and the oil looked pretty clean, not dark or black at all. I figured with only 3 owners and 37K miles how bad sludge could there be? 10. Should I install an oil Filter?, this car never had one. Sorry for all the questions, just very excited to get started on this car. 51504bat 02-19-2026 @ 8:19 PM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 362 Joined: Apr 2020 I'm not a purist-my '39 p/u is converted to 12 volts. And you'll get a lot of "6 volt systems work just fine if properly maintained" comments. To that I say it's your car do what you want. I'm happy with my 12 volt system. As far as glass goes, check out Auto City Classic. There is a recent thread on the HAMB about them with many positive reviews, including one from me. https://www.autocityclassic.com/ https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/auto-city-classic-glass.1347801/#post-15824490 ______________ No signature ford38v8 02-20-2026 @ 12:04 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 2901 Joined: Oct 2009 1 - I have used only bias tires on my '38 with no complaints, but have heard that radials may provide a better ride. Caution on the tubes, the word is that poor quality tubes are rampant. 2 - Electronic ignition is a poor choice for a Ford Flathead unless used with no hood or side panels: Electronics don't do well in hot engine compartments, which is what Fords are famous for. 3 - my choice: I retained my 6 volt system with no problem. 12 volts requires some added electronics for the gauges. a 6 volt starter can be rebuilt for 12 volts, being the mod of choice. 4 - i prefer belt and suspenders. one caution with any system, be sure the gaskets and valves are fuel resistant, and that pressure is limited to no more than 3 lbs max. 5 - no particular set-up in mind, but consider, you don't want a snazzy modern looking light with your vintage car. 6 - better yet, use headlight relays up near the radiator for good bright 6 volt lights. 7 - your choice, but nothing brings a smile like the sound of dual Smittys. 8 - glass needs to be the correct thickness. Sanders Glass provides that. 9 - use a good quality detergent oil, and change it at least every 1000 miles. you can safely leave the sludge, it won't create a problem. 10 - Back in the day, a filter was an excellent option. Available today, and still a great option. Alan This message was edited by ford38v8 on 2-20-26 @ 12:07 AM kubes40 02-20-2026 @ 6:57 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 3614 Joined: Oct 2009 I'm, with Alan for the most part. Six volts is great. Why introduce 12volts? Radials do make the car feel nicer on the road. Still, I prefer bias ply. Modern tubes can and quite often are, terrible. If your old tubes are good, use them again. You will find the radials make the car tougher to maneuver at times. Like attempting to parallel park. Rim liners are unnecessary. If the front chassis is not "tight" and properly aligned, you may experience wheel tramp. If you don't know what that is, well, some call it "the death wobble". I might suggest that prior to hitting a highway, you drive the car down a few rough roads. You will KNOW instantly if the car tramps. Electronic ignition? Why? A properly set-up factory distributor will give you a LOT of good miles. Electronic ignition / reliable is an oxymoron. Dual exhaust? If you want that, go for it. Smittys? Never heard of those. However, SMITHY's are perhaps the best sound for a flathead dual system. If you are thinking of getting a power boost, forget it. Sludge? 37000 miles is plenty of time to build up sludge. Is it worth removing the pan and cleaning it out? Probably not. Like Alan, I believe you should change the oil frequently. Unlike Alan, I don't believe a filter is necessary. Would a filter help increase the longevity of the engine? Perhaps? Will the engine outlive you and I without a filter? Most likely, yes. Brighter lights? I solder a ground wire directly to the headlamp reflector and then attach nearby to the frame. Amazingly better light. Tail lamps? Same thing...amazing difference. Electric fuel pump? Usually that's a "Band-Aid" repair. In other words, the previous owner couldn't or didn't bother to properly restore the authentic fuel system. I have NEVER found the need for an electric pump. Sanders Glass has long been "gone". Peninsula Glass took over and does a fine job. They are quite reasonable, very accurate and deliver rapidly. You can have them etch the Ford "bug" in the glass at an extra cost or simply buy 100% clear glass, no "bugs". https://local.yahoo.com/info-26612317-peninsula-glass-vancouver/ Mike "Kube" Kubarth This message was edited by kubes40 on 2-20-26 @ 6:59 AM trjford8 02-20-2026 @ 8:54 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 4379 Joined: Oct 2009 Alan and Kube have covered all the bases. Now for turn signals you can purchase the switches that will mount on the column from e-Bay or your local parts store. (If you want you can also use a vintage Volkswagen switch) Most switches come with a wiring diagram You can use your existing tail lamps as the switch wiring ties into your brake lamp circuit. On my last '37 I bought a nice set of vintage fog lamps with the yellow sealed beam bulbs and used them for the front turn signal lamps. If you get the correct brackets they will clamp to the front bumper irons. No need to drill any extra holes. By the way that is a nice looking 37. JayChicago 02-20-2026 @ 10:46 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 572 Joined: Jan 2016 Welcome! Glad to have you with us. You are so fortunate to have found such a well preserved, low milage car. It looks great! My thoughts: You have a close to original car. I would think carefully before making "improvements". Originality is important to any antique. Every little change is a little compromise to the car's originality. (you made a wise choice with the DiamondBack Auburn tires. The pie crust profile maintains some of the old-car look) If you have not already done so, join your nearest V8 Club chapter. You will probably enjoy the camaraderie, and they will love to see your car. In your profile on this site, fill-in your first name and the "from" field. Your location sometimes is important info when we are responding to posts. Buy the Club's 1937 Book from the "Online Store" in the blue margin on this page. Not a restoration/repair manual but shows how the car came off the assembly line. Again, originality is important. This message was edited by JayChicago on 2-20-26 @ 10:59 AM carcrazy 02-20-2026 @ 5:13 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 2041 Joined: Oct 2009 What a beautiful car! Before deciding what to change on the car, you have to ask yourself what you want the car to be. If you want it to be a point judged show car, you probably shouldn't change a thing about it but merely wash, polish it and trailer it to car shows. If you want it to be a reliable driver that can be driven anywhere at moderate speeds ( 50 to 60 MPH), the following changes might be advisable: Tires - install modern radial, tubeless tires. You might have to install different wheels to accommodate them. Show car tires are much more expensive and less reliable. Avoid tires that require inner tubes. 12V conversion - if you want to drive the car after dark and make starting easier, converting the car to 12V makes sense. The least expensive and most efficient way to do this is to use a GM alternator for a 1978 Camaro with 350 cu. in. V-8 engine and A/C. This is a model 10 SI with 63 amp output. The AC Delco part number is 321-39. Many vendors offer the parts required to mount this alternator to your engine. You will need a mounting bracket, alternator pulley of correct diameter and configuration for the fan you intend to use. If you want the engine to turn off and stop running when you turn the ignition switch off, install a DA Plug, this is a diode which prevents the alternator current backflow from feeding the ignition circuit once the switch is off. Fuel pump - if you want to install a mechanical fuel pump to an engine which has been operating without one, you will have to determine what was done to the engine once the original fuel pump was removed to prevent oil pressure loss. On the stock engine there was an oil port on the side of the passage where the oil pump pushrod rides. If this passage or port has been blocked, you will have to take appropriate action to provide lubrication to the pushrod. Buy a turn signal kit that also includes the hazard flasher feature. Many vendors provide these kits including C&G. LED lights shouldn't be required once you have cleaned all of wiring connection points (including grounds), gone to 12V and use a headlight relay to shorten the current path between the battery and the lights. Dual exhaust - provides a nice sound but doesn't necessarily produce any more power. Glass replacement has been addressed. Unless you are experienced with installing glass, you might want to take it to a professional to have it installed. If you want to install an oil filter, you can use a partial flow system which will filter all of the oil within about five minutes of running at highway speeds. If you plan to remove the oil pan to desludge the pan and add a partial flow filter you can provide a return port for the oil while the pan is off. Whatever you do, don't install a later high pressure oil pump in the engine without first providing a better sealing system at the rear main bearing. TomO 02-20-2026 @ 7:08 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 7410 Joined: Oct 2009 You have some great answers from people who have been driving Fords for a long time. I have been driving my 40 Mercury for about 50 years and leaned the hard way that modifications from stock only add to the unreliability and complexity for fixing when things go wrong. My cars have the mechanical fuel pump, 6Volt, positive ground and I get about 15,000 miles on a set of points in the distributor. I would also think twice about driving the car at night on a regular basis. The LED lights on modern cars are so bright, drivers will not see your tail lights even if you change to 12 V. I would replace them with the brightest (most lumens) LED bulbs that you can find. Even then it will be hard to see your small lights. A third LED brake light, like the Brakelighter will help observant driver see when yo are coming to a stop. Tom RAK402A 02-20-2026 @ 11:04 PM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 17 Joined: Apr 2025 Your car is BEAUTIFUL! After spending the last 50 years with a 1940 Ford Fordor Sedan (and driving it back and forth to work, 30 miles each way for about two years, 20 years ago)... One thing I would like to point out-these cars were very reliable in their stock form for decades-if they are in good condition they are still very reliable. "1. New tires, actually just ordered 4 Diamondback Auburn Deluxe All-Season Whitewall Radial Tires and I plan to order some new Radial Tire tubes and new rim strips." Radials are not necessary, but a lot of people like them. I still run belted, bias ply tires. "2. Electronic Ignition, I could most defiantly use some help with a recommendation for the best and most reliable." In my opinion, this is solution for a problem that does not exist-the stock ignition systems are EXTREMELY reliable when done right and are easy to service/repair. I have seen many posts (on Facebook and elsewhere) where aftermarket electronic ignitions have failed. With stock ignitions, I see more posts where people don't understand how they work and so want to replace them with something that is supposed to be "better." The only fly in the ointment here is the quality of some of the repro parts (coils and condensers). Original coils can be re-built by Skip Haney for less than a new repro coil. "3. 12 volt conversion, again need some help with recommendations for best conversion. Replace 6v Starter?" Like the electronic ignition question, this is a fix for a problem that does not exist. 6 volt, positive ground, in good shape with proper gauge cables and clean connections, is EXTREMELY reliable. "4. The car has a new gas tank with an electric fuel pump. I know nothing at all about these flathead 85HP V-8 engines but the previous owner removed the mechanical pump; should I buy a mechanical so I have both electric and mechanical??" If it is in good shape, it does not need an electric fuel pump. Some people use them to get the fuel to the bowl if the car sits long enough for the bowl to evaporate-the electric pump is then shut off. In good shape, a stock fuel pump will get fuel to the empty bowl in about 20 seconds of cranking. "5. Turn Signals, any recommendations for best kit?" Yes, a very good idea as people in general don't seem to understand or notice hand signals anymore. Also, if it is very cold, hand signalling can be unpleasant. I go this one and had the cover painted to match my dash: https://www.earlyfordstore.com/products/turn-signal-switch?_pos=3&_sid=c7eee8cd6&_ss=r "6. LED Lights?" I have not tried this one yet, but brighter headlights are good. I have not found any that look correct on a '40. I think a '37 uses a separate bulb inside. "7. Duel Exhaust?" Why? If it is a hot rod, have at it, but if it is stock there is no reason to do this. "8. Glass replacement. The car does need all new glass, any recommendations? I did find an eBay company, Bob's classic Auto Glass?" I do not have any current information on this as I had mine replace almost 50 years ago. "9. DE sludge the engine? I changed all the fluids and the oil looked pretty clean, not dark or black at all. I figured with only 3 owners and 37K miles how bad sludge could there be?" That would depend on the condition of the engine-if the oil looks clean I would say you are ok. "10. Should I install an oil Filter?, this car never had one." I run the stock filter (an accessory). Some people say these don't work, some say they do. My father was pretty savvy automotive-wise, and he insisted that I install one (which I did, about 40 years ago). I don't know about a '37. One thing you didn't mention is an alternator. I have found this to be useful (especially when I want to run the headlights and the radio at the same time). You can get good, stock looking ones from E. J. Whitney: https://www.ejwhitneyco.com/automotive.html "Sorry for all the questions, just very excited to get started on this car." Don't apologize for asking a lot of very good questions. You should get a lot of different opinions, which is good. This message was edited by RAK402A on 2-20-26 @ 11:08 PM

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